hey whats up fellows? ive been wanting to turbo my v6 3.0 ranger 2005, but dont know wich turbo, were to get all the forged parts, and wich are they...basicly i am a ROOKIE at this subject, but willing to learn, if someones willing to teach!

 

wich parts are the forged ones? im guessing pistons valves...

 

Truely forged... I'd suspect none of them. I even doubt the crank is forged.

It would be very costly to build a "forged" 3.0L You'd most likely be looking at custom CNC'd parts in order to get the strength your asking for.

Then when your all done.. you got a little 3.0.

If your just bent on keeping the 3.0L. Here is what I'd do.

Get a used motor and do a rebuild on it.
Get ARP studs for the heads and bottom end.
Have the heads and block milled.
Punch the bores as little as possible
Have the crank done by "Eagle"
Have some new rods custom made.
New custom pistons. (moly coat the sides)
Have a custom cam made for the boost. (very little overlap)
Have fox lake port & rebuild your heads. (oversize SS valves with proper springs)
Tri metal headgaskets
Headers
And thats just the engine....

Fuel system
Ignition system
Exhaust system
Upgraded tranny/clutch
Upgraded driveshaft.........

Rich

 

I am intersted in this 2.3L set up. Is there anyone out there who has built one??Pics?? Steps? Parts list? I am on my second 2.3L and would love to make it a little quick sleeper.

 

why??? why dont you save up for a supercharger, it'd be a lot less head ache in the end

i think i heard that only the rods are forged in the 2.3t (like the turbo-bird and merkur and svt.) if you were to do it, youd hafta get some forged 8:1 pistons (racer walsh and get the forged pistone from them, 500 for std. bore, but the name escapes me) and prob some rods. i figured if i have it apart, i might as well change them out.

its not terrible hard as along as you take your time, and have a basic know-how.
to start off you need the block. depending on the year of your truck you could do either obd1 or 2.
then pistons (forged 8:1), and rings
rods, since its already apart
bearings, both mains and rods (clevite)
gasket and seal set
arp head bolt sets
depending on what head your using, you need the appropriate intake mainfold
exhaust manifold.
then of course, the turbo
downpipe, fuel pump, injectors for whatever ecu your using (high or low resistance)
muffler, intercooler (ic), ic pipes, depending on which turbo you might need a waste gate, various sensors, wire harness, depending on which engine your using, and of couse bov or diverter valve.
and if your running obd2, you'll need a hand held programmer (most tend to stick with the sct x-calII, you can use others, but thats what most use) and a custom ecu program
and various oil lines

i know theres other stuff i didnt mention, because of how you set up the engine. but its prob about 90-95% of what you need, and its a good list to get you started. grand total, i think i spent prob about 3k on the total build, and thats getting a lot of deals on stuff, so its up to you. just if your gonna do it, make sure you ask lots of questions, and you dont rush it, please take it from someone who knows about rushing this project, im on my second one because i rushed the first. and make sure you do lots of research.

to tell you the truth, since i rushed it, i havent even gotten to take it to the track yet

 

new turbochargers are much more efficeint than superchargers, and have way less lag then anyone think with the proper setup. I would make my own mounts, and use a turbo designed engine that will be easy to modify to fit those mounts. Nissan makes a few really good turbo engines that are mounted front to rear. SR20DET, RB25DET, and RB26DETT. The SR engine is plenty capable, as the other 2 are far overkill.

In response to the post above, 8:1 is WAY too low compression. I run 8.8:1 in my 4G63 and spike at 28PSI tapering off to 24PSI at redline. Inline engines are less laggy then V motors because of the plumbing setup, which is another reason an l4 or l6 is the right thing for you. I buy all my turbo parts from tom at extremeturbosystems.com - they are very knowledgeable and helpful I would give them a call.

 

then you need to check out some of the other turbo ranger forums. in fact any of the turbo ford forums i believe. everyone that i talked to said 8:1 is the way to go in the ranger or ford engines.

maybe 8.8:1 is ok in those lil ricer engines, you know, to add a lil umph to those coffee can mufflers they run

 

actually your comment is counterproductive...

A higher compression turbo engine would indicate stronger internal parts.

you obviously don't know much about nissan turbo engines from the 90's, the rb26 is widely acknowledged as one of the best turbo engines every produced for any vehicle in the world.

 

Yeah.. with those smaller engines, its a toss up between turbo/supercharger.. I know on a 4.0, you coudl try a turbo all you want.. there just isnt room without cutting things up real good.. as opposed to a bolt on supercharger. I would second on the 2.3T turbo setup, that woudl give you a good "sleeper" even if it would be a tad expensive to build up.

 

Superchargers are much easier, they are less efficient though.

I don't like the idea of something spinning on my crankshaft however.

 

Yeah, definitely understandable on that part.. when you get into the BIG SC's there is major belt slippage that happens.. not cool at all!

 

im in agreement with the with the whole sc belt thing. but if you turbo a 2.3 all you end up with is a powerful 3.0.

go ahead and turbo a 3.0. it'd be cool, but a lot of work. and prob a lot of hunting around for parts, since not to many people do it. its hard enough finding stuff for a 2.3t

 

I'd vouch for supercharger and keep it as a daily... BUT if it was for a weekend toy just gut the V-6 and go with an inline-6

 

Or just drop a 5.0 in and call it a day......either way i think youre going to be spending a lot of money if (and please dont take this the wrong way, i myself am not automotive smart) youre not mechanically inclined.. I say, just keep the 3.0, drive it in the ground, then find a ranger with the 4.0 or an f 150 with a v8.. Or a ranger with a v8, if you can.

 

Completely incorrect....

By your theory my 2.0 (1997cc) would be slower than my 3.0 Stock N/A V6.

2.0 Turbo = 381 awhp -estimated 420-440 bhp
3.0 V6 = 132 whp (measured on a mustang dyno) - advertised 148 bhp?

Running more boost with a bigger turbo with advanced timing and the correct A/F ratio will make the I4 substantially more powerful than the 3.0, 4.0 or even a 5.0.

However this would require billet forged internals, and you cant use the stock ecu for air/fuel control. Upgraded sensors will also be beeded (use a map instead of a maf)

My friend you should do more research on turbo's. I am in the process of building my 7th, and most powerful turbo engine.

 

if you're considering the turbo route, the first step for you would be to correctly match a turbocharger to your 3.0.

Check out www.turbobygarrett.com. We have all of our passenger vehicle turbocharger maps available to view. The website also has some basic info about how to match a t/c to your engine based on how much HP you want & some other info.

I would definitely recommend going with a ball bearing T/C if you can. they're generally better with boost response (turbo "lag").

That info should get you started.

 

what car do u have for the 4g63? mitsu eagle or plymouth? and pics of your set up please, because it sounds dope

 

what about swapping a Duratec 3.0 from a Taurus or an Escape? i know theres a bit of an after market for that motor from rumaging through the Contour sites. Nautilus Performance makes a 300-350whp kit for the D-Tech 3.0 and Noble builds 3.0's up for naturally aspirated, turbo'd, or twin turbo'd but they are extremely pricey. anybody know if this would be a good idea?

 

Screw it and get a F20C, 5.0L, SR20det, or 2jzgte.

 

3.5l Ftw!

 

Support for the 3.0 is poor compared to other motors, I wish mine was a 2.3 could do a lot
more.

 

Agreed. the parts you need to use 9 times out of 10 you won't find, plus if you truly want to turbocharge it. be prepared to have a huge wallet and lots of time on your hands as well. D. is right about this. If you do find some parts chances are you'll have to modify them plus the stock internals won't handle no more than 5 LBS of boost. If you do go that route you'll need to change your fuel pump too. Because at upper RPMS the engine will run lean and you lose horsepower as well as torque.STS has a Universal kit but it's the cheaper route and you'll end up spending more money on repairs. Nothing against STS but the stock motor just can't handle the power of turbocharging without mods. In the end your better off doing an engine swap with an engine that's turbo ready. here's a link www.dssracing.com . They do alot of turbo ready small blocks if you're interested.

 

I don't know what engine you have, but a vulcan 3.0 takes very well to 6psi of boost. Here's the setup i did on a buddy's ranger. Remote mount eliminating muffler and cat, ct26 turbo off of a 80's early 90's supra with mustang 42lb injectors and 255pump. No IC, no meth injection, just cpu tunning. Guy has been running it for about 6 months w/out issues.

I think we spent less than 1g in the whole setup. The thing that killed the price was the return pump for the charger oil, and the 255.

 

don't know why people aren't saying the 3.0 cant handle boost cause they can. the most i have seen on stock internals is 246whp at 7psi. and you could get the morana stroker kit for 2 grand and boost the **** outta it. just run over sized valves and heavy springs and such. it will be expensive but that's where im heading. not the stroker kit but the stock internals. done right you can make ok power.