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  #26  
Old 07-08-2010
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There's no lifeguard in the gene pool
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Yeah I thought about it and even priced out the bearings. Its like $250 for new rod and main bearings, high volume pump, pickup screen and tube, oil pump intermediate shaft, and felpro gasket.

Changing the bearings has me worried though. I have very little knowledge when it comes to engine work. I really don't know how to change the bearings and I was also told that just throwing in new bearings without machine work can cause catastrophic failure. I don't really know though, like I said, I just have no clue when it comes to engine internals.
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  #27  
Old 07-08-2010
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You can do it, you have to make sure to check the clearance with plastigage and have everything spotlessly clean. A good torque wrench is also required.
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  #28  
Old 07-08-2010
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Bring it over here.
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  #29  
Old 07-08-2010
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Originally Posted by rolsmojave3 View Post
You can do it, you have to make sure to check the clearance with plastigage and have everything spotlessly clean. A good torque wrench is also required.
Cool. I've been talking to my Dad about it and he said its not to hard to do so I'll probably go for it. He knows a lot more about that type of work than I do.

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Bring it over here.
May take you up on that if I can't get my Dad to help me out.
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  #30  
Old 07-09-2010
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Originally Posted by RazorsEDGE View Post
Changing the bearings has me worried though. I have very little knowledge when it comes to engine work. I really don't know how to change the bearings and I was also told that just throwing in new bearings without machine work can cause catastrophic failure. I don't really know though, like I said, I just have no clue when it comes to engine internals.
If you are having oil pressure issues it would first be good to find out why. Either the oil pump is getting old and isn't able to push as much oil as it used to, or (more likely) your bearing clearance have opened up from all of the miles and unable to build as much pressure.

If you are willing to put in all new bearings you might as well do a mild overhaul. I would not suggest putting new bearings on the engine with it installed. Pull the motor, remove the crank and rotating. Check all of the crank journals for any scoring or nicking. If you can catch your finger nail on any of the marks on the journals it needs to be machined down. Have the crank ground down 10 thousandths of an inch and buy undersize bearing so that all of your clearances are within spec and tight (rod and main).

If you are that far in you might want to consider new rings, just depends how far into the engine you are willing to go. Just remember that a high volume oil pump is only a band aid if the bearing clearances have opened up.
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  #31  
Old 07-09-2010
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If you are having oil pressure issues it would first be good to find out why. Either the oil pump is getting old and isn't able to push as much oil as it used to, or (more likely) your bearing clearance have opened up from all of the miles and unable to build as much pressure.

If you are willing to put in all new bearings you might as well do a mild overhaul. I would not suggest putting new bearings on the engine with it installed. Pull the motor, remove the crank and rotating. Check all of the crank journals for any scoring or nicking. If you can catch your finger nail on any of the marks on the journals it needs to be machined down. Have the crank ground down 10 thousandths of an inch and buy undersize bearing so that all of your clearances are within spec and tight (rod and main).

If you are that far in you might want to consider new rings, just depends how far into the engine you are willing to go. Just remember that a high volume oil pump is only a band aid if the bearing clearances have opened up.
I'm fairly certain the problem is the bearing clearances. Its possible that its just the oil pump or pickup but I doubt it. I know the oil pump is a band-aid fix but thats all I really want. About as far as I'm willing to go is what it takes to get to the oil pump. I'm not going to pull the motor. I don't have the time, room, or knowledge to go through that. I'll replace the pump and what I can get to while I'm in there, but right now its just not an option to go any further.
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  #32  
Old 07-09-2010
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Sounds good! Hopefully the pan drop easy for you.
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  #33  
Old 07-11-2010
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Originally Posted by wyldechild View Post
The truck is looking good. I too have always had a soft spot for that body style.

The 351W is a great engine. I have 145k on my Bronco, and it is still strong.
WOOOOO!!!!!!

Windsor represent!!!! we know how to build em up here!!!!!

nice truck btw.
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  #34  
Old 07-11-2010
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ive always wondered this, but what is the difference between the 351 windsor, 351 clevland, and 351 modified? i was told that the windsor was good for towing and the clevland was for speed and modified was best of both worlds. any insight on this?
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  #35  
Old 07-13-2010
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it's the other way around. 351W is better then 351C/M for aftermarket. 351C/M is an iron block.
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  #36  
Old 07-13-2010
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Yeah from what I've heard the 351W is the engine to go with for performance/towing. The 351C can be built to haul some *** but apparently isn't the best for towing, and the 351M is strictly a tow engine.
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  #37  
Old 07-13-2010
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M and C are the same i belive or very close. there are threads on here already about FE motors and the differences/similarities.
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