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Spindle lift parts and prices

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Old Jun 1, 2006
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Spindle lift parts and prices

I've been researching for a while and this is what I have come up with in terms of all the parts I think I need at the best prices I can find for a 3 inch spindle lift.

Let me know what ya'all think of this setup and the prices I can get them at.
BTW all prices include shipping.

I'm open to any suggestions and feedback.

Spindles



SuspensionMax - $299.95 w/shipping - http://sporttrucksuspension.com/RANGERLIFT.HTM

AALs



Procomp AAL Model EXP-13120 - $40.70 - http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...ch&DDS=1&N=115

Shackles



Belltech - Model BEL-6400 - $57.70 - SummitRacing - http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...nresults=false

Total

Spindles - 299.95
AAL's - $40.70
Shackles - $57.70
-------------------------
$398.35 <----EDIT: Final price includes shipping
 

Last edited by buzzair; Jun 1, 2006 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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sounds like a great deal, but dont forget shipping charges. also i can't remember, but you may need longer shocks for the rear, fronts your ok
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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All those prices include shipping. I took it all the way to checkout then cancelled. soo tempted to push submit
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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what are u waiting for?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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More forum feedback :)
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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I have all of the above

for me, spindles were a PITA...you definetly need to grind A LOT of places with those spindles. Don't be afraid. Also, you NEED a "pitman arm puller" to pull the spindle off the ball joint.

Just buy a tie rod puller and get that out. You will also need new tie rod end links (20 each) and they are simple to install. I ripped the boot on both, but 1 was already ripped.

Also, for the AAL's and the shackles...I didn't have enough "jack" to do either. I tried to, but it just wont' work. Be sure you have a high enough jack, because it gets pretty high...forget about mounting your 33's on after that...you have to jack from the pumpkin.

Overall, it took me 8 hrs to do, a lot of cursing, 100 dollars more than expected. I had to buy new tie-rod ends, the puller, grease, and a tie rod puller. It sucked.

I am happy with the outcome, but the process is HARD and you do need 2 people sometimes. Maybe it was just me, but that was a PITA. I'm doing a review on it soon, I just need pics.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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Originally Posted by jrpro130
I have all of the above

for me, spindles were a PITA...you definetly need to grind A LOT of places with those spindles. Don't be afraid. Also, you NEED a "pitman arm puller" to pull the spindle off the ball joint.

Just buy a tie rod puller and get that out. You will also need new tie rod end links (20 each) and they are simple to install. I ripped the boot on both, but 1 was already ripped.

Also, for the AAL's and the shackles...I didn't have enough "jack" to do either. I tried to, but it just wont' work. Be sure you have a high enough jack, because it gets pretty high...forget about mounting your 33's on after that...you have to jack from the pumpkin.

Overall, it took me 8 hrs to do, a lot of cursing, 100 dollars more than expected. I had to buy new tie-rod ends, the puller, grease, and a tie rod puller. It sucked.

I am happy with the outcome, but the process is HARD and you do need 2 people sometimes. Maybe it was just me, but that was a PITA. I'm doing a review on it soon, I just need pics.
now, you need to come to the meets, aka tower shopes.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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Thanks for the info Ricky. I'm looking forward to your review/how-to w/pics.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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Originally Posted by straightedge
now, you need to come to the meets, aka tower shopes.
I would if I had 33's on...I got a bent rim (maybe) I have one more thing to check!!!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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I say go for it I have those same spindles and I had to grind a little but not tons and I am pleased with them so far. Also after you do one spindle the next side is so easy.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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I have those shackles on my truck there great and gave me atleast 2-3 inches of lift in the rear
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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YES 35's are nice. I say go for it. I did it with a T-Bar crank and now im sitting on 35's!
Your turn!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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Hows the power with 35's and a 3.0?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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Originally Posted by buzzair
Hows the power with 35's and a 3.0?
i have never driven one but i know that griggs has 35's on his 3.0 auto and its not bad but he does have 4.56 gears
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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hmm..I ask cause I might be able to get 4 almost new 35's BFG A/Ts for $450 but not if its gonna decrease my power considerably and cause other problems down the road.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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go with 33's...I was rubbing in reverse turning left (i think) in the front with 1.5" tbar crank

you lose ALOT of power, I did not realize it. Just get a tuner/fipk/exhaust/efan and you'll be back to stock in no-time!!!

go w/ 33's...it is a LOT bigger than you think...it makes it look tonka!!!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006
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Originally Posted by buzzair
hmm..I ask cause I might be able to get 4 almost new 35's BFG A/Ts for $450 but not if its gonna decrease my power considerably and cause other problems down the road.
if you get 35's you will need to regear... ranger1 has 35's with 4.10 gears and he cant use 5th gear on the highway and he has a 4.0 so i would imagine its much worse with a 3.0... however when i put my lift on im gonna go with 35's since i really dont care about speed
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by jrpro130
go with 33's...I was rubbing in reverse turning left (i think) in the front with 1.5" tbar crank

you lose ALOT of power, I did not realize it. Just get a tuner/fipk/exhaust/efan and you'll be back to stock in no-time!!!

go w/ 33's...it is a LOT bigger than you think...it makes it look tonka!!!
My original plan was 33's, and I already have the e-fan. Tuner would be further down the road.

The only reason I'm considering 35's is cause of the great deal I can get on them. If not for that, I would be sticking with 33's.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by gatorblue92
if you get 35's you will need to regear... ranger1 has 35's with 4.10 gears and he cant use 5th gear on the highway and he has a 4.0 so i would imagine its much worse with a 3.0... however when i put my lift on im gonna go with 35's since i really dont care about speed
Yea thats the thing, I don't care that much about speed either but I would still want as much power as I have now.

Are you planning on regearing or no?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by buzzair
Yea thats the thing, I don't care that much about speed either but I would still want as much power as I have now.

Are you planning on regearing or no?
yeah im prob gonna go with 4.56 gears when i finally do the lift
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006
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Let me revise that list for you:
  • Spindles - $299.95
  • AAL's - $40.70
  • Shackles - $57.70
  • Grease, tie-rod puller, and other “must-haves” at AutoZone - $78.92
  • Case of Bud Light - $16.00
  • Broken finger after drunkenly smashing between control arm and spindle - $562.98 after insurance
  • Gaining 3 inches of altitude - Priceless
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006
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Originally Posted by Needforspeed3685
Let me revise that list for you:
  • Spindles - $299.95
  • AAL's - $40.70
  • Shackles - $57.70
  • Grease, tie-rod puller, and other “must-haves” at AutoZone - $78.92
  • Case of Bud Light - $16.00
  • Broken finger after drunkenly smashing between control arm and spindle - $562.98 after insurance
  • Gaining 3 inches of altitude - Priceless
Haha, so true...I spent that much money too!!! I didn't buy the beer or the insurrance. But the autozone bill was about 100...and I had to dish out 100 just for the rental. So in reality...I spent 200 more than I thought I would. Plus now I have to fix my ABS light

And I still have to do my rear!!!

But...3" higher, thats priceless.

I didn't think it would be that big...it's pretty large with 33's...I'm 6' and its a jump up there!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006
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lol, thats a good one.

If I'm looking at a 200 dollar do-it-yourself price tag then I might as well see how much I can get it professionally done for me. My Uncle knows someone...I'll ask for a quote.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006
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It was 5-700 for me...I can't see it being any different. Takes about 6-8hrs for any mechanic to do. They charge about 70-100/hr. It's a good amount of work, a lot of grinding, a lot of specialty tools. You need the pullers, presses, jack stands, lift, jacks, tie rod end links, new ball joints (if you tear boots), new tie rod end links (if boots torn), etc.

I would expect to pay someone at least 700...its a lot better doing it yourself!
 
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