$600 just for LABOR
$600 just for LABOR
I got in my truck this morning and the warm/hot air wouldn't work. Nothing but cold. I take it in to get looked at, and (hopefully I understood this properly) the motor that controls the little door that allows the warm air to enter the cab is bad, so the door is stuck in the closed position. To get to this, apparently the whole dash has to be removed, and they quoted me 8.5 hours labor + parts, etc. The labor rate is $65 an hour, so thats $553 in labor alone, assuming it only takes 8.5 hours.
Does this sound right?
Does this sound right?
Originally Posted by KARPE
How did they determine its bad without dropping the dash already?
Also, you prolly can drop it.. But if you are going to go that far. might as well just by the part and install it yourself.
Originally Posted by DownSouthTAS
I got in my truck this morning and the warm/hot air wouldn't work. Nothing but cold. I take it in to get looked at, and (hopefully I understood this properly) the motor that controls the little door that allows the warm air to enter the cab is bad, so the door is stuck in the closed position. To get to this, apparently the whole dash has to be removed, and they quoted me 8.5 hours labor + parts, etc. The labor rate is $65 an hour, so thats $553 in labor alone, assuming it only takes 8.5 hours.
Does this sound right?
Does this sound right?
Originally Posted by zabeard
your in South Carolina, cant get too cold. lol
btw i would just drop the dash myself as well.
btw i would just drop the dash myself as well.
It may not get as cold here as it does up north, but its cold enough to make you glad you have heat, or in his case, wish.
Originally Posted by SouthernMudSlinger
you wanna bet? lol
It may not get as cold here as it does up north, but its cold enough to make you glad you have heat, or in his case, wish.
It may not get as cold here as it does up north, but its cold enough to make you glad you have heat, or in his case, wish.
but its a lot different cold than it is up here. Ive been down there, i know what its like.
I rarely run the heat in my truck, it was in the 20s this morning.
Yea its a bad blend door actuator. To get it you must move the dash out of the way, 65 an hour is great, our shop charges 85. Its easy to diagnose actually. They need to get to your evaporator case which is the big black box under your dash that has your evaporator & heater core in it. Some cars allow you to change the actuator without dropping the box, but not in this truck.
Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Yea its a bad blend door actuator. To get it you must move the dash out of the way, 65 an hour is great, our shop charges 85. Its easy to diagnose actually. They need to get to your evaporator case which is the big black box under your dash that has your evaporator & heater core in it. Some cars allow you to change the actuator without dropping the box, but not in this truck.
Actually, the evaporator is under the hood on rangers...
The evap box has to be removed and the heater box bolts have to be removed from the engine compartment(it mounts to the firewall). This is a pretty big job, but I wouldnt charge that much
. While you are in there, you might as well change the heater core too... The part is cheaper than all of that labor again!
We were also told the dash needed to be pulled, but it does not. I do have small hands though....
When John and I did the EATC on my Ranger, I managed to remove the actuator from the JY Ex, and then install it in my Ranger without removing anything but the glovebaox. It's tedious, but with small hands and an extension on the ratchet it can be done.
When John and I did the EATC on my Ranger, I managed to remove the actuator from the JY Ex, and then install it in my Ranger without removing anything but the glovebaox. It's tedious, but with small hands and an extension on the ratchet it can be done.
I'll drop the glovebox this afternoon and see if the actuator is bad once I remove it, or if the little selector pin is just damaged. Thanks for the help, guys. I'll keep you updated on me getting it fixed at the shop or not. Because if I can avoid spending $1000, it's sure worth giving it a look-see.
In a majority of cases, it's the blend door itself that cracks (at least on Rangers and Explorers). So keep your eyes out for that kind of thing, too.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...14&postcount=6
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...14&postcount=6






