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  #1  
Old 11-20-2007
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84 Ranger Bench Removal

On my 84 regular cab, the carpet needs to come up and new sheet metal needs to go down.

The bench seat has floor bolts at the front, but I cannot see nor feel any bolts at the rear. It feels like threaded studs which go through the floor pan. Stud poking through from above and from below.??

So, no bolt heads under the truck and none from above. And the seat is rusted in place on the rail, so I can't slide it forward. Any suggestion what type of fastener is used here, and how I can get it out?

Also the rockers on my Ranger are open on the bottom. This is not rust, but a straight cut gap the entire length. My cars have never had this. They accumulate ice in the winter too. Is this normal as designed by Ford? Seems structurally weaker than a closed rocker.

Thanks,

Gordon
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Old 11-20-2007
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I'd say take the opportunity to just cut it out and replace with something more comfortable.

my apologies though, I can not offer any insight as to how to properly remove the bench
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Old 11-21-2007
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Thanks Andy for your suggestion. I don't have a cutting torch nearby and would prefer to keep the bench, as it seems comfy enough. But the rotten carpet has to go, so one way or another the bench is coming out.

Gordon
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Old 11-21-2007
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you could cut the posts of the bench with a sawzall... but leave yourself enuff room two drill 2 holes in both pieces, and then bolt the bench back together.... sandwich ur cut section with like 1/8 plate steel. or maybe even angle iron..
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Old 11-22-2007
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Well I got yer answer, but it's not a good one.
That stud on rear of the seat is actually a bolt head. There are pos factory bolts that rust and desinigrate easily. What I ended up doing on my '84 was drilling that bolt out. Your seat rails are seized up I take it. Try some kind of rust breaker and a little muscle. I think there are bolts/screws on the bottom side of the seat that attach the rails but I can't remember w/o lookin. You might be able to squeeze a socket driver in there.
But from the look of things you will have grind the bolts off anyway, so I suggest bottom side of the truck and use a grinder(can't remember how much room they give you) and grind the left over bolt stud flat to the sheet metal of the cab and finish drilling the rest of the bolt out through the bottom.

I would try soaking those rails (If u want the seat that is). They like to jam up, but get a grip on it try using two people to yank on that bastard. If it comes loose just do your grind and drill from the top side.

Last edited by ONEDGE04; 11-22-2007 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 11-22-2007
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Almost forgot, don't worry bout the threading for the factory bolts when your drillin. Its worth the extra $.35 a bolt to go stainless....its a bad rust area for some reason...don't forget clean up your bench posts and paint em...they will need it.

Give me an update on floor sheetmetal install too. My project '86 stroker is gonna need it and I could use a few ideas.
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Old 11-22-2007
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Thanks Dave & AK,

These are good suggestions and kind of where my thoughts were leading. I will let you know how I procede. Could be a number of days. For the present, snowstorms are keeping me on the road. I will try the heavy soak with PB Blaster and muscle or small sledge hammer taps to free the frozen rails.

Yesterday my mechanic friend showed me a catalogue which has brand new floor inserts which can be tack welded (maybe even bolted or riveted) in place. Apparently these can be ordered through NAPA and for the '84 they cost $88.00 Cdn each side. I have forgotten the manafacturer, but will check and get back. I will wait to pull it all apart before making a decision. I already have sheet metal that will cover the area, but of course it has to be cut & custom fit. At present the cab support stanchion/grommet is projecting above floor level, so this would have to be lowered, probably by raising the cab on the driver's side before welding in a new piece. The mechanic says once it's all tacked in place the cab support stanchion will bear upon the floor. Pretty sure this approach would not work with the homemade sheet metal approach. Have to give it a better assessment once the seat and carpet are removed.

Thanks for the input,

Gordon
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