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  #1  
Old 02-22-2009
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??? ABOUT DROPING A RANGER

so i finally placed an order for a djm 4/5 drop for my 2000 ranger xlt

i ordered the kit and 4 camber bolts for the alignment. should be getting everything this week.

ive seen john mooreheads red ranger with saleen wheels and another blue stx with fr500's and fell in love with those two trucks,

i want to know whats the recomended size of tires that wont rub against anything if i were to get saleen replicas, 18 by 9 or 10? i know moorehead has/had 255/45/18 all around but im not sure what drop he has so i dont know if they rub at all? i would need 7/16" spacer to fit the centercaps in front

right now im runnin 255/65/15 on stock wheels and ill probably be on them in the mean time i save for wheels and tires? will i have any problems with the drop?

after searching this and other ranger related sites, i cant find anything any help is apreciated.

i
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Old 02-23-2009
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i currently have 235/45/R18's upfront and 265/35/R18's on the back. I could run a little bit bigger tire but these were my initial sizes. JOhn was running a 5/7 drop on his ranger I believe, he's not around too much anymore, cause he sold his ranger.

Be sure to get a alignment done immediately or things will rub ie rims on control arm. PM me with any questions you have as I just did the install not too long ago.

Check out my DJM 4/5 on a 06 STX thread under builds...click here

Last edited by Npierce; 02-23-2009 at 02:15 AM.
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Old 02-23-2009
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I know www.rangerpowersports.com has a bunch of people with the 4/5 drop so just need to look a little deeper....
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Old 02-23-2009
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with my 17x8 cobras with a +20 offset i almost hit my spindle so i dont know if you'll get away with a 9 or a 10 up front.
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Old 02-23-2009
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I have 9" all around need to check my offset again but yes you will need some spacers upfront to clear the hub assembly. depending on the diameter of the hole in wheel.
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Old 02-23-2009
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im running 9" all around on a +24 offset..my tire size is a moot point though b/c im not at 4/5
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2009
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are you running 17s or 18s?
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2009
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I have 18's and i think taknotes has 18's as well....
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Old 02-23-2009
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I'm running 235/55 17s on my 17X8 Cobras, but I do rub the sway bar at full lock. A little more spacer would have fixed that though, I only used a 5/16".
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Old 02-23-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Npierce View Post
I have 18's and i think taknotes has 18's as well....
I'm on 17"s, no spacer, all centercaps are on, rub at full lock
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Old 02-23-2009
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Quote:
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I'm on 17"s, no spacer, all centercaps are on, rub at full lock
How did you get your centercaps on without spacers?
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Old 02-23-2009
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NPIERCE, your truck is the one i was talking about, jaja i actually have a picture of it as a wallpaper at work, your truck and moorehead inspired me to finally drop it,

i guess ill just find someone "a local person" with saleen' wheels and see if they will let me test fit them before i buy them.

ill post pics later after its dropped
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  #13  
Old 02-24-2009
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lol I figured you were tlaking about NicksterSVT's sexy looking little thing. John Moorehead is very knowledgable about lowering as is MArk98XLT.... Both helped me alot...
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Old 02-24-2009
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please tell me how much this costs. only thing is mines an edge. [=
i donno if im supposed to do that to an edge
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  #15  
Old 02-24-2009
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I just saw a DJM drop kit over on RPS for sale 550.... no shocks i think... so would need new shocks... I haven't meesed to much with the edges (not at all) so know nothing of what the suspension consist of but i think its torsion bar front end and leafs out back. the rear flip kit should work for you. I don't know if the front set up would work for you being that it is control arms and coil spings....

Some one will chime in here soon to give you the 100% correct info... and to tell me i am wrong...
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Old 02-24-2009
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With the edge, all you can do to the front is un-crank the torsion bars and flip the keys. That'll get you lower, but not as low as an XLT. I think that ends up being about the same hight as a 2" drop on a coil spring suspension.
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Old 02-24-2009
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tomorrow feb. 25 the parts will start to arrive acording to the tracking number?

is there anything i should be carefull about when installing the kit????
can i still fit the sway bar with the original bolts??? or will i need shorter ones???? i cant find a picuture of a droped ranger with shorter bolts on the bar??? will this afect the ride in any way???
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Old 02-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnbaum13 View Post
With the edge, all you can do to the front is un-crank the torsion bars and flip the keys. That'll get you lower, but not as low as an XLT. I think that ends up being about the same hight as a 2" drop on a coil spring suspension.

they also make a coil over setup.

But yeah, you can take out the block and uncrank the t-bar and it will give you the height of a stock 2wd with the coils. They have new tbar keys that will drop it a bit more and give you a better ride. ask D about it. he made his own set
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  #19  
Old 02-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poor_boy_custom View Post
tomorrow feb. 25 the parts will start to arrive acording to the tracking number?

is there anything i should be carefull about when installing the kit????
can i still fit the sway bar with the original bolts??? or will i need shorter ones???? i cant find a picuture of a droped ranger with shorter bolts on the bar??? will this afect the ride in any way???
your kit should come with shorter endlinks for the swaybar
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  #20  
Old 02-25-2009
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i hope it does come with the shorter endlngs because i dint see anything like that on the item description when ordering?

what tire size would be the best and why? what are the benefits of a bigger sidewall vs a smaller harder sidewall??
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  #21  
Old 02-25-2009
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If you ordered the full kit like you said it will be all there. End links new bushings everything... The directions from DJM are kinda vague and not too many pics.

I would start spraying PB Blaster or WD-40 on all the bolts everywhere so they begin to soak. When you go to remove the hub from lower control arm it will be a b!t$6.

What I did was remove the shock and coil assembly from the truck then unbolt the lower control arm.with hub and brake rotor attached.
Set on a piece of cardboard to prevent damage to rotor assembly and take a nice size hammer and pound the crap out of the little bolt like pin that comes up into the control arm...hammer it back down through the control arm... spray some more pb blaster/wd40 on it every so often.

Once it is out you can put the hub back on the new lower arm and start putting things back together. Might want to clean up the area a bit where any rust spots are and hit them with some rustoleum or something to make things look good....

Another issue I ran into was keeping things together... get a small parts tray and place all new items in the tray to keep them separate from everything. and place all old parts into a big box. Make sure you have a grease gun with white lithium grease and hose in it to lube all the zerk fittings.... Let me know if you need more help... Post a picture of an item if you don't know what it is for....

With the tire issue- a larger side wall will make your overall diameter bigger. This can also help protect the wheel lip. The shorter side wall may roll under wheel during high speed turning and such....
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  #22  
Old 02-25-2009
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Also a larger sidewall will help out with the ride over cracks in the pavement. Not enough sidewall flex=tire chasing the grooves in the road.
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  #23  
Old 02-25-2009
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just keep it under a 26" diameter tire with the 4/6 and you wont have rubbing issues.
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  #24  
Old 02-25-2009
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Quote:
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just keep it under a 26" diameter tire with the 4/6 and you wont have rubbing issues.

x2... but you'll rub a little when u make hard turns or hit really bad potholes...
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  #25  
Old 02-25-2009
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x2... but you'll rub a little when u make hard turns or hit really bad potholes...
shouldnt, I never had an issue.

anything over 26' youll rub
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