Buying a Ranger tomorrow! Have many questions.
Buying a Ranger tomorrow! Have many questions.
So I’m buying a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 (3.0L V6) it’s my first truck ever and second vehicle, it’s completely stock right now but I want to make it look sick. I would like to throw 33x12.5 / 15’s on it but I do not know if they will fit without a lift. Also I was talking to the guy and he said I would need to upgrade the breaks in order to handle the extra weight and size, is that true? If I do buy larger tires how do I go about reprogramming the speedometer to account for the different tire size?
Any answers will be very useful and greatly appreciated, if you have any tips you think I should know about also please let me know, thank you!
Don't know about tires, but check the front timing chain cover for coolant leaks, this is a common problem on the 3 litres.
Know too that a leaky oil pan gasket change pretty much requires the engine be at least lifted off its mounts and the trans removed.
On the 4X4's the front cross member may be able to be removed to drop the oil pan.
Know too that a leaky oil pan gasket change pretty much requires the engine be at least lifted off its mounts and the trans removed.
On the 4X4's the front cross member may be able to be removed to drop the oil pan.
Is the Truck 4 WD or 2 WD ?
If a 4 WD you will need a 5" lift of some kind to fit 33" tires without any scraping.
If 2 WD I am not sure what is needed except clearance !
If a 4 WD you will need a 5" lift of some kind to fit 33" tires without any scraping.
If 2 WD I am not sure what is needed except clearance !
Last edited by Scrambler82; Feb 17, 2019 at 10:47 AM.
Yes, you will need a suspension or body lift for tires over 30" diameter, and may need some fender trimming up front
In 1999 Rangers the GEM module was used for speedometer calibration, or if it has 4 wheel ABS(an option in 1999) then the 4WABS module was used for calibration
Either can be reprogrammed for new tire diameter, some Speed Shops have the software to do that, some 4WD Shops as well, and any Ford Dealer will also be able to do that
You have to hook up a Laptop with the correct software, to the vehicle then access the correct module and then change the RPM(rotations per mile) number for the new tire size
No, you won't need new brakes
When you change to larger diameter tires you also change the rear axle Ratio by changing rotation ratio
Axle ratio is important to performance and what you want as end result
4.10 ratio is good for start off speed and pulling loads, but has higher RPMs at highway speeds so not as good for commuting MPG
3.45 ratio is better for commuting and higher speeds but harder to get started off and pulling loads
Rangers often came with 3.73 axle ratio, so an in between compromise
The drivers door sticker will tell you whats in the 1999: read here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...le_codes.shtml
Say you have 29" tires now and a 3.73 ratio
When you put on 33" tires your rear axle ratio will change to 3.28, so you will lose start off power
If you swapped axle to 4.10 model then 33" tires would be an actual ratio of 3.60 which would be pretty much the same as you have now performance wise, assuming 3.73 now, AND speedometer would be very very close to correct
In 1999 Rangers the GEM module was used for speedometer calibration, or if it has 4 wheel ABS(an option in 1999) then the 4WABS module was used for calibration
Either can be reprogrammed for new tire diameter, some Speed Shops have the software to do that, some 4WD Shops as well, and any Ford Dealer will also be able to do that
You have to hook up a Laptop with the correct software, to the vehicle then access the correct module and then change the RPM(rotations per mile) number for the new tire size
No, you won't need new brakes
When you change to larger diameter tires you also change the rear axle Ratio by changing rotation ratio
Axle ratio is important to performance and what you want as end result
4.10 ratio is good for start off speed and pulling loads, but has higher RPMs at highway speeds so not as good for commuting MPG
3.45 ratio is better for commuting and higher speeds but harder to get started off and pulling loads
Rangers often came with 3.73 axle ratio, so an in between compromise
The drivers door sticker will tell you whats in the 1999: read here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...le_codes.shtml
Say you have 29" tires now and a 3.73 ratio
When you put on 33" tires your rear axle ratio will change to 3.28, so you will lose start off power
If you swapped axle to 4.10 model then 33" tires would be an actual ratio of 3.60 which would be pretty much the same as you have now performance wise, assuming 3.73 now, AND speedometer would be very very close to correct
I'm also buying, been years, since I used the forum. Here goes. Buying a "stored" 2007 Ranger XLT, Auto, 4x4 - 0nly 2500 miles - Potential Problems? Was covered, outside, started every few weeks and driven short distances. It’s 11 years old so Likely long dormant spells. Oil just changed and driven around town for a few months. Original tires. Belts and hoses may be a concern, but most are visible. What of hidden seals in tranny, brakes, electrical issues drying, etc? In Colorado, no humidity is an issue. Overpriced at 18500. new tranny seals will run a ton, other seals in areas I don’t know will too. Advice and warnings welcome. I own a 2002 Ranger XLT, auto 4x4 with 125K. OD light comes on every few months when its been in 4 wheel drive. Has for 5 years. I read a new tranny is a few grand and u joints may be needed, it clunks a bit from a dead start. So, buy a dormant, 11 year old truck with 2500 miles or fix the old girl. I welcome the replies. Thanks.
Mine is a 2003 EDGE, 4x, with the Super Lift, 5" Kit... (I think SL claims it to be a 5.5" lift but you are lucky to get 4..5" out of it.
But my point, I am at the 4"+ lift mark, and when I go over a larger bump and have the wheels turned, I rub; when I back out of a parking space and turn the wheels sharp because of these small parking area now, I rub. I have found I rub more backing up when turning to the left, that I rub more than going forward even over the curb, but there is no rubbing in most everyday situations.
I would be surprised if someone running a 3" lift on a 4x would have NO rubbing, unless there is a 2" or 3" Body Lift, (BL).
If I could start over, I think 6" and 35's, 4.88's, would be a good way to go, if you can find a 6" lift, maybe a 4" Suspension Lift with 2" BL.
Always something to think about with these trucks !
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