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Old 10-05-2011
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DIY shock replacement; Difficult?

I'm considering replacing the shocks on my 99 ranger with 117K miles. I've done the standard maintenance like oil changes and rotors and pads. I also replaced the alternator and upgraded the UD pulley.

How difficult is it to replace the shocks DIY? I don't have air tools and will be doing the job solo. How much time should I allocate to this job?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-05-2011
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Super easy. Couple bolts and there out. Front or back one? There both easy but if I had to pick which ones were 'harder' I would say fronts.
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Old 10-05-2011
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did my front shocks back in like april. took what 30mins? wd-40 the crap out of the bolts the day before. then jack it up. remove the tire. loosen the bolts on the bottom first. then the bolt on the top then it just falls out. then put the new one back up in and bolt the bottom down first. then bolt the top back on with the new rubber and washer. and rinse and repeat on the other side.
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Old 10-05-2011
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Depending on how rusty the nuts are, shocks are super easy. If they're really rusty, douse them with PB Blaster (way better than WD40, in my experience) the day before, and then like an hour before you do it. Once you get the nuts moving, if they're still sticky, hit them with a little more PBB during the work. It also helps with very rusty nuts to wire brush the **** out of the bolt threads prior to dousing them with penetrating spray. Fronts are 3 nuts, rears are two bolts. Very easy job in all.
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Old 10-05-2011
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only reason i say wd-40 / teflon penetrating spray is thats all ive got, never used pb blaster if it works better then go for it!
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Old 10-05-2011
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Thanks for all the quick responses.

I saw that adv auto has an internet special that will save me $30 on my order. I'm going with the Monroe Sensatrac all around. It will be about $150 after discounts and taxes. Lifetime warranty so these will be last shocks I ever need to buy for the Ranger.

Last edited by atlsud; 10-05-2011 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 10-05-2011
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Exactly what i have on my front end they do work pretty well! :D
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Old 10-05-2011
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PB is the best i have used. if they are that rusty and frozen break out the blue wrench. They shouldn't be to bad. usually 30mins front 20mins rear.
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Old 10-05-2011
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Shocks are very easy. Especially the rears you don't even need to remove the tires.
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Old 10-06-2011
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Don't forget to send in your Monroe rebate form (the "What Shocks You" rebate promotion) to get $25 back on the purchase of 4, good for purchases through oct 31/must be mailed before December 1, 2011.

I just ordered 4 Sensa-Tracs for my Ranger, too. Looked at all the online forums, especially when comparing specific types, and decided for my driving and truck budget the Sensa-Tracs would be the ones.

The rusty nuts and bolts look a little scary, but it was good to hear that advance penetrating oil treatment works well. I just took off the rear factory tailpipe bracket today to replace the rubber hanger, and that bolt looked as rusty, but came off well with wirebrushing and oil treatment (BEFORE I read this thread that included wirebrushing).
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Old 10-06-2011
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Its been said but i'll add.
9days out of 10, They're rusty as hell. the night before, go out there and PB blast the hell out of them. then do it again the day of. if you need a little bit more "umph" out of your ratchet. get a pipe to fit over the handle and grab the pipe at the bottom.
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Old 10-09-2011
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I've replaced shocks a couple of times on my old 94 Ranger and once on my 08 Ranger and you can be pretty sure the nuts on the top of the front shocks shaft will be rusted onto the shaft. You don't have to take the front wheels off to get at them. You'll need a pair of vise-grip pliers to lock onto the shaft while you try and get the nuts off. If you're lucky (and I usually was) the nuts will simple break off. The bottom two bolts are easy to get at. The rear shocks shouldn't be problem getting off, but spraying the shock bolts with WD-40 or something like that is useful.
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Old 10-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlsud View Post
Thanks for all the quick responses.

I saw that adv auto has an internet special that will save me $30 on my order. I'm going with the Monroe Sensatrac all around. It will be about $150 after discounts and taxes. Lifetime warranty so these will be last shocks I ever need to buy for the Ranger.
I hope you haven't bought them yet. I just bought the sensatracs for 90 bucks after the mail in rebate from Monroe.

Do the advance auto online thing. Make TWO separate orders that total just a hair more than 85 bucks. Use code BIG35 on each one. Save 35 bucks on each order. So 35+35+25=95 plus saved taxes. (BIG35 is 35 dollars off orders 85 dollars and more.

Was gonna cost me about 190 but I ended up paying 90.


As for the install:

Rear bolts were rusty as hell. Big breaker bar needed. Top bolts weren't too bad as they don't see the elements as much as the bottom ones.

Fronts I though were easier. I just sawzalled the top bolt off. (watch out for brake/fuel lines on drivers side (2.5L)). After unbolting the bottom bolts it just slid right out.

Now I don't have any more "rear end flying all over the place after hitting a bump" problem.
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Old 10-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
I hope you haven't bought them yet. I just bought the sensatracs for 90 bucks after the mail in rebate from Monroe.

Do the advance auto online thing. Make TWO separate orders that total just a hair more than 85 bucks. Use code BIG35 on each one. Save 35 bucks on each order. So 35+35+25=95 plus saved taxes. (BIG35 is 35 dollars off orders 85 dollars and more.

Was gonna cost me about 190 but I ended up paying 90.


As for the install:

Rear bolts were rusty as hell. Big breaker bar needed. Top bolts weren't too bad as they don't see the elements as much as the bottom ones.

Fronts I though were easier. I just sawzalled the top bolt off. (watch out for brake/fuel lines on drivers side (2.5L)). After unbolting the bottom bolts it just slid right out.

Now I don't have any more "rear end flying all over the place after hitting a bump" problem.
The promo BIG35 did not work for me but VISA did. I was able to get $30 off the front and another $30 off the rear. Add the $25 rebate and the final cost will be $less than $100.

Took 2 hours trying to get the first front shock off before I went to HD to get a metal sawzall blade. For those going the sawzall route, don't jack up the truck when cutting the top bolt. The rest went easy.

Thanks for all the help.

Last edited by atlsud; 10-10-2011 at 06:29 PM.
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