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Everyone should clean their throttle body

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Old Jul 17, 2009
  #51  
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Got mine cleaned up after 127,000 miles. It idles smoother now. And about 2-300rpm higher, which is good because it was only idling at 5-600 before. And it could be my imagination but it seems to have an easier time at 3,000....more like a SOHC now lol


Great "mod"
 

Last edited by gts007; Jul 17, 2009 at 11:38 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2009
  #52  
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Originally Posted by FireRanger
I just used some paper towels and alcohol based cleaners.
An alcohol or an ether? They're quite different.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009
  #53  
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Originally Posted by FireRanger
A little rasberry smirnoff and ooh heaven
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009
  #54  
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Originally Posted by CBFranger
I don't know, seems like I'm not the only one here who thinks it is great. You appear to be out numbered.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009
  #55  
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Originally Posted by FireRanger
I don't know, seems like I'm not the only one here who thinks it is great. You appear to be out numbered.
Anything that has to do with raspberry flavored vodkas....


Tough one of the most drunk nights of my life was cutting a watermelon fruit cooler (already 7-8% alcohol) in a 1:3 ratio with raspberry vodka.

Real men drink rum right out of the bottle. Or at least that's how I like it.

BTW, Alcohol or Ether?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009
  #56  
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Originally Posted by '91 Project-STX
Its a good thing I saw this thread I'm getting ready for a tear down to the lower intake for cleaning painting and stopping the leaks.(my head gaskets were done within 10k but dad wasn't in the mood to clean it up.

what I wonder is if cleaning the throttle body makes that much of a difference what about the upper and lower intake...and how would I clean it out?
You are looking at a port and polish - literally scrub out the inside as much as you can, get it shiny and smooth!
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009
  #57  
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This thread motivated me to do this and man i'm glad I did. Removed the TB and IAC, cleaned the heck out of them. Feels like a new truck and shifts smooth. My wife noticed it and that's saying something. Thanks OP!

Bob
 
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Old Jul 18, 2009
  #58  
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who lives close enough to me who wants to do it for me? haha i'll pay you.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2009
  #59  
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Originally Posted by CBFranger
An alcohol or an ether? They're quite different.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2009
  #60  
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Do you like quoting yourself. It was ether based. Sorry, chemicals start mix names in my brain easily when I'm tired.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2009
  #61  
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I love it, it's a hobby of mine. haha

I just felt it was prudent information. I dont know what metals are used in the throttle body but I imagine there may be some brass parts which could become corroded by alcohol. Also, alcohols and ethers solvate different types of compounds. In some applications they will both work equally well, in others one will work and the other absolutely will not. :)
 
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Old Jul 22, 2009
  #62  
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Maybe I interchanged the terms because of the alcohol I consumed when I was done?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010
  #63  
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Just cleaned my throttle body, it was gummed up pretty good after 100,000 miles. I was wondering, after removing the TB, I looked down into the intake, and there is a small nasty brown puddle way down at the back of the intake. Does anyone else see this and is there a way to clean it without taking the top of the engine off?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010
  #64  
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I think it had a teflon coating on the back side of the throttle plate, but by now it could be gone. Not easy to see it but you can hold the throttle gate till its wide open and spray some carb cleaner into it. I reach in it with a long screw driver with a rag wrapped around the tip and turn the screw driver a few time. I'll do it a few more times till the rag isn't pulling any more carbon out with it. And YES, the check engine light may come on. It will go off once the O2 sensors burn off the spray residue. If its real easy to get at a small soft bristled tooth brush with a little WD 40 on it can get it clean.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010
  #65  
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Nice thread, plan to get real drunk and work on the truck tommorow, gonna clean the maf and TB.

- Horseplay aside, Safety is priority one: I will not smoke, toke, grind metal or launch fireworks while cleaning the TB or MAF.

Roddy
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #66  
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Hey guys, ever since I cleaned this my engine takes longer to rev down. It doesn't just drop like it used to. It slowly goes back down. Is this normal?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #67  
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Did you remove the black stuff behind the throttle plate?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #68  
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Yeah I degreased it and scrubbed the crap out of it. I used REALLY REALLY fine grit sand paper to finish off the last tough spots. I tested the plate with the throttle adjuster on the side a few times and it closed fine. I think it might be getting stuck though?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #69  
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That black coating was supposed to be there to seal the outer edges when the throttle closes.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #70  
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From: Goose Creek SC
Well ****. What do I do?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #71  
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Originally Posted by gts007
So just ignore that sticker that says "do not clean inside of throttle body or adjust hard stop screw, special coating on throttle plate and bore" ?
Do you SOHC guys have this sticker too?
do you have an automatic tranny?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #72  
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I'm gonna have to replace my TB now huh?

Well poop.......it seems like every time I work to better it I screw it up even worse. Or I fix one problem and discover or create another. *sigh*
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #73  
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Did you change the setting of the stop screw while you were working on it? If you did, then you could try adjusting it back by setting the closed throttle TPS voltage to 0.98~1.00V.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #74  
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yeah i did adjust the screw trying to get the cable off. how do i set the "closed throttle TPS voltage to 0.98~1.00V"?
 

Last edited by Masteratarms93; Apr 27, 2010 at 06:25 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2010
  #75  
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OK, if you adjusted it up, you may be able to save the TB by adjusting it back down. With the throttle closed and the key on and with everything plugged in normally, use a voltmeter to read the voltage between the signal and signal return wires of the TPS and adjust the stop screw to give 0.98~1.00v. Probably gray/white to gray/red but I can't tell you the color codes for sure without knowing the year of the truck.
 
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