THE FIRST 2004+ LED CLUSTER IS HERE!!!! (pics galore)
#52
You guys have really even "flows of light" but I want it to be absolutely perfect light distribution. Foil tape helps alot (see my earlier pics) I played with the LED placement for hours and I was so excited on the results that I got with this design. The bulbs I am using are on superbrightleds.com, they are 360 degree 5mm LEDs. I wasn't going to settle for anything less than exact equal light and color everywhere. I want this to look 100% stock. Maybe the stock locations on a 2004 don't work as well as the previous Rangers for using LED's.
Last edited by Jp7; 09-01-2008 at 07:07 PM.
#53
Will these needles work in my truck do you think?
http://www.newtruckstuff.com/shop/pr...cat=255&page=1
http://www.newtruckstuff.com/shop/pr...cat=255&page=1
Phone number = 810.244.0909, ask for Rusty.
He's a really helpful guy, even know he's out of the office alot. Tell him I sent you his way.
#54
#55
Autozone, napa, murrays pepboys
Any of those round the corner type stores.
I am looking at my roll of it now, it is "scotch 3m" Foil tape "3311"
Just a warning - this stuff IS conductive. So don't have led's touching it. I bought "liquid wire tape" in order to protect everything from shorting out.
The tape was like 6$ a roll I think.
#57
I'm like the only customer they have had looking for 2004 Ranger needles. He will remember that it needs GM needles.
These look like the needles I have:
It says:
US Speedo Dash Gauge Needle Kit for General Motors 03-07
Item #: USS-NED010
I'm not sure if he modded these for me so they would work on the 2004 Ranger as he tested it on a cluster in his shop.
I'm linking these photos from here:
http://www.hyperformanceauto.com/Das...FoNtzEZI9tPWNh
I would buy them directly from usspeedo - this way you are buying a product from the manufacturer that understands its use. Not some joe-blow who knows nothing about your vehicle or the needles it has.
Last edited by Jp7; 09-02-2008 at 06:08 PM.
#58
#61
Granted I haven't been working on it much lately, but I spent 40-80 hours on this so far. The first one is always the worst because you have to figure out what to do. Like in my Evo, I made a super LED dome light and people on the Evo forums wanted them, so I started doing them for $$$. First one took me 8 hours, now I can do them in 2.
If your still interested PM me and we can figure something out.
Last edited by Jp7; 09-07-2008 at 03:22 PM.
#64
I can tell you that all winter long my car will be in the garage so I won't be spending time doing performance mods on it, which will free up alot of time for doing ranger mods.
#66
#67
OK, so I am basically done with the lighting, and I've installed it, started the truck and checked what I can (basically everything but the speedo)
So far....
Great success!!!
I Love how it looks, I was so freaking out that I went out to my neighbors house just to show her (she's like 50 LOL)
Since the last pics I added more LED's where it was kinda dry to add more evenness in the lighting. The lighting is perfectly even just like stock now, and the needles all light up the same.
Oh man I love this...
So far....
Great success!!!
I Love how it looks, I was so freaking out that I went out to my neighbors house just to show her (she's like 50 LOL)
Since the last pics I added more LED's where it was kinda dry to add more evenness in the lighting. The lighting is perfectly even just like stock now, and the needles all light up the same.
Oh man I love this...
#69
#70
Looks great! My friend wants to help me do this, and hes pretty good with electronics and coming up with new ideas, I was just wondering if you could just at least post a good pick that shows any additional LEDS you added, and which ones to use. We should be able to do something similar.
I'll make a map for you with the extra cluster I have. Just not tonight, I have done absolutely nothing this weekend except LED this thing. I'm pigging out on poptarts now.
Oh yeah, you MUST use the 360 LED's from superbrightleds.com to make it work like I did if you dont want to use plugins. Plugins work just fine, but I wanted a stock smooth lighting appearance.
#72
I didnt use the stock spots at all, I made all of the lighting with individual component LED's.
I'll make a map for you with the extra cluster I have. Just not tonight, I have done absolutely nothing this weekend except LED this thing. I'm pigging out on poptarts now.
Oh yeah, you MUST use the 360 LED's from superbrightleds.com to make it work like I did if you dont want to use plugins. Plugins work just fine, but I wanted a stock smooth lighting appearance.
I'll make a map for you with the extra cluster I have. Just not tonight, I have done absolutely nothing this weekend except LED this thing. I'm pigging out on poptarts now.
Oh yeah, you MUST use the 360 LED's from superbrightleds.com to make it work like I did if you dont want to use plugins. Plugins work just fine, but I wanted a stock smooth lighting appearance.
#73
when i took the clear white face off of the cluster before i started playing with the internals i took photos of where the needles where when i gently twisted them with the littlest bit of force in the counterclockwise position (basically at zero) if you do this the needle will NOT slip on the shaft like you need it to when you remove them. When you get all your work done and put everything back together just line them up the same way, so that when they are at the end of their travel it hits the same position. I will test for accuracy with a scanner and GPS. My warmed up idle is saying 750 now, and i think thats just about right? any other 3.0 owners can confirm?
#75
no - this is very important that you think about this...
I took a photo of where the counterclockwise non-slipping motion stopped and i put them back in that position so the counterclockwise non-slipping motion stopped in the same position....
if you turn gently, they move till they stop, if you keep pushing they slip..... the "resting" position on a stock cluster is NOT the edge of the non-slipping motion.
I took a photo of where the counterclockwise non-slipping motion stopped and i put them back in that position so the counterclockwise non-slipping motion stopped in the same position....
if you turn gently, they move till they stop, if you keep pushing they slip..... the "resting" position on a stock cluster is NOT the edge of the non-slipping motion.