Help me set up the perfect Ranger
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,650
Likes: 2
From: Hillsboro, Oregon
The two OHV 4.0L engines that I had were great.
The ranger had 145k miles, and I beat on that thing pretty hard. Most of it's life was with 33's, truck at max gross. I drove it hard, full throttle everywhere I went, lol.
Always fired right up, ran hard, never leaked/burned a drop of oil. The only thing I "fixed" on the engine was the IAC valve. The OHV has great low end pull. Doesn't rev high but doesn't need to.
The explorer with 120k miles, just EGR valve, IAC valve, and intake gaskets. Also ran good and strong.
When I worked at a Ford dealership I had atleast a few customer with old 4.0L rangers, a number of them over 200k miles and they wouldn't get rid of them, they loved them.
The ranger had 145k miles, and I beat on that thing pretty hard. Most of it's life was with 33's, truck at max gross. I drove it hard, full throttle everywhere I went, lol.
Always fired right up, ran hard, never leaked/burned a drop of oil. The only thing I "fixed" on the engine was the IAC valve. The OHV has great low end pull. Doesn't rev high but doesn't need to.
The explorer with 120k miles, just EGR valve, IAC valve, and intake gaskets. Also ran good and strong.
When I worked at a Ford dealership I had atleast a few customer with old 4.0L rangers, a number of them over 200k miles and they wouldn't get rid of them, they loved them.
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
From: Skagit Valley, Washington
wow sound slike i got a perfect setup. i like my interior more than a 95+ though because the dash is flat to set things on and the center console arm rest is 10x stronger- its connected to something on both sides. i would say get a 89-97 with 4.0 ohv, manual t-case, and SAS if you have enough money and skills
I would say 98-00 Body, 4.0 OHV 4x4. If you just want a weekend warrior and dont plan on heavily modifying it i would go with that.. Hell if i get another ranger i'll be getting one like that.
its a hell of a lot easier to swap a CV shaft on the 98+ than it is to swap one on a C CLIP TTB.
its a hell of a lot easier to swap a CV shaft on the 98+ than it is to swap one on a C CLIP TTB.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,650
Likes: 2
From: Hillsboro, Oregon
I would say 98-00 Body, 4.0 OHV 4x4. If you just want a weekend warrior and dont plan on heavily modifying it i would go with that.. Hell if i get another ranger i'll be getting one like that.
its a hell of a lot easier to swap a CV shaft on the 98+ than it is to swap one on a C CLIP TTB.
its a hell of a lot easier to swap a CV shaft on the 98+ than it is to swap one on a C CLIP TTB.
I can change a 98-00 CV shaft in 15 minutes.. TTB bull **** you gotta pull everything to pull a stupid c-clip.
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: East , Texas
Ohh yeah btw, I would also go with the 97 4.0 Manual. I can't recomend any lifts as I havn;t had any personal experiance with lifts for them. I would run 33's with 4.56's some good tube bumpers with matching sliders and maybee a good winch set up as well.
Still thinkin 98+
you don't really have any increase in wheel travel with TTB over SLA.. I just don't really like the old front ends i guess haha
Yep!!
you don't really have any increase in wheel travel with TTB over SLA.. I just don't really like the old front ends i guess haha
Yep!!
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,650
Likes: 2
From: Hillsboro, Oregon
lol
After you do it once, it is super easy actually. Wheel off, axle nut off (if live axle), brakes rotor and caliper off, ball joint pinch nut out, hammer bottom of control arm, pull CV from wheel knuckle, pry it out from diff.
After you do it once, it is super easy actually. Wheel off, axle nut off (if live axle), brakes rotor and caliper off, ball joint pinch nut out, hammer bottom of control arm, pull CV from wheel knuckle, pry it out from diff.
yep tire on, trying not to put all the weight on the brake hose.. no jack stands, single halogen, freezing my *** off in the parking lot of my apartment in laramie.
I broke my wheel lock key, had those stupid *** gorilla lugs so every lug was a lock... managed to get one nut off with the broke key socket, then hammered on my 17mm deep 3/8" socket, couldnt get the lug back out (its still in there to this day) and didn't have 2 more 17mms laying around.. as soon as my step dad shipped me a new socket i replaced all the lug nuts with standard OE nuts.
there's also a trick, i think on the driver side you have to put the cv shaft into the axle first, then through the spindle? idk i remember the pass. side bein a ***** when i put it into the axle first and the driver side being a ***** when i put it through the knuckle first.. maybe it was the other way around, but it was being picky.
I broke my wheel lock key, had those stupid *** gorilla lugs so every lug was a lock... managed to get one nut off with the broke key socket, then hammered on my 17mm deep 3/8" socket, couldnt get the lug back out (its still in there to this day) and didn't have 2 more 17mms laying around.. as soon as my step dad shipped me a new socket i replaced all the lug nuts with standard OE nuts.
there's also a trick, i think on the driver side you have to put the cv shaft into the axle first, then through the spindle? idk i remember the pass. side bein a ***** when i put it into the axle first and the driver side being a ***** when i put it through the knuckle first.. maybe it was the other way around, but it was being picky.
Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
From: GA
The Ranger got the SOHC in 01, but it has been in Explorers since 97. The OHV was standard in 97-00 Expos with the SOHC as an option, and then then SOHC became standard in 01.
sealed the deal on my land. So next week when i get back from the beach, or the following week, I hope to have a lvlII i've been eying in TN. Im gonna order the BL, wheels/tires and exhaust have them ready.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
