so lastnight i tried wiring up my trunk wire to my solenoid. i used a 4 pin relay and did everything that i thought i could. when i hit the trunk button, i can hear the relay click on and off, so i know that it's getting power. i tapped the power wire for the solenoid and nothing. i also tried the ground wire, but still nothing. any suggestions?

 

PM Bob dude... He's the electrical master lol

 

i wanna see you get this working. that would be awesome to be able to get your train horns to go off wireless.

 

It's not difficult and it should be working... For some reason, it's not though, so I dunno...

 

Clean your ground and try again. Most of the time its a problem with the ground.

 

Relay is clicking though signaling a proper ground...

 

slap a multi meter on there, and check your readings. you hit the button, and hear it cycle. stupid question, do you have a constant 12v source in and out of the relay?

 

yea sorry i should have explained it a little better. i have the relay wired up to the battery with a 30A fuse. the relay is grounded cleanly, and is attached to the trunk release wire. the output wire i tapped directly to the power wire on my solenoid. when i hit the trunk button i can hear the relay click, but no horns?

here is the way i wired the relay..

 

i tired this once it doesnt sound as good as you want it to it honked for to long per honk ir that makes sense

 

Isn't the 30 pin the constant hot wire hookup normally? Is the trunk leg wire of the alarm a positive feed? Some cars are negatively switched, I do believe we are positive, but what is the alarm?

 

i wonder if instead of tapping my solenoid wire... could i just tap the wire to my switch for my horns? that would complete the circuit and sound the horns right?

 

my buddy wired his valve to his horn. and when he hit the key fob to lock the truck, all you heard was a hiss. i guess there wasn't enough power to flip the valve open all the way? it'd be nice to set off the horns without being in the truck/ alarm system.

 

I dont know why that wouldn't work. When you flip the switch it completes the circuit IIRC. So tapping into the wire would send power to it just without the switch.

 

thats how mine are hooked up. i moved my solenoid/valve up closer to the horns instead of at my rear bumper and it made it work a little better. it just hisses if there isn't enough air though.

 

I know when I am at around 150psi to 200psi the key fob lock function will not be enough to sound the Train horns, but if i am low on air or the truck has sat for a while and the pressure is around 120 or less psi, then it will burp almost.

 

His trunk wire is a negative wire trigger. So the relay has to be wired differently...

Cam, tapping the switch is the same as sending power to the solenoid where you have it tapped.

Try running it the way I told you in the pic. See if that does anything. Or it could be like some are saying, either not enough air or the burst isn't long enough... I think you can program a channel 2 to hold the button down like the panic button and that could trigger the solenoid for as long as you're holding the button... Just my thoughts.

 

Thats how mine is, when I double click the lock button it makes a weird sound thats not too loud. But I can press the panic button and it blows my horns normally. Only thing that sucks about that is I pressed it when I was getting horn at like 1am once, that sucked.

 

yea, on some alarms you can change the output duration of the alarm signal. i have my aux back up lights wired for trigger once turn on, trigger again turn off. you can usually have it time delayed, pulsed, on untill arm/disarm, and how i have it.

as someone said, check the output trigger and see if it is pos or neg.

 

Can't you get timed relays?