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  #1  
Old 10-11-2008
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Post How much we looking at here??



Are those a bad sign???^^

These look dry rotted like bad, wonder if they are the reason for my vacuum leak??


What the hell are these little plastic clips??


Are these ball joints bad??
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2008
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The tie rod end I couldnt tell you

The rotted vac line could be your problem, im sure all the lines that are made out of that hose are dry rotted.

Those little "clips" are just adapters to go from the larger vac line to the smaller one and couplers to connect 2 together.

Yes those ball joints need to be replaced soon. It looks like the boot is about to rip,so dirt and water will kill them quick.




If your having problems getting your hubs to engage then just switch out to the avm manual hubs. Its alot better then dealing with replacing all the vacuum lines that leak.

Last edited by schatten789; 10-11-2008 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 10-11-2008
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Originally Posted by schatten789 View Post
The tie rod end I couldnt tell you

The rotted vac line could be your problem, im sure all the lines that are made out of that hose are dry rotted.

Those little "clips" are just adapters to go from the larger vac line to the smaller one and couplers to connect 2 together.

Yes those ball joints need to be replaced soon.




If your having problems getting your hubs to engage then just switch out to the avm manual hubs. Its alot better then dealing with replacing all the vacuum lines that leak.
The hubs not locking in could be a simple fix though. I'd recommend just going to the ford garage and have them inspect it and see what they find out. If it's something expensive, just swap in the AVM Manual hubs. Otherwise just have them fix it or order the parts and do it yourself.
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Old 10-11-2008
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You are supposed to jack it up and support the vehicle by the lower control arms, then take the tire off and hook your prybar in the frame and lay the paybar across the top of the upper control arm and pry down on the upper balljoint/control arm. Since both balljoint studs point down, you will be able to see play in both ball joints at this time. If you want pics of how this is done since i am not good at being discriptive, i will be more than happy to supply some. The 12 and 6 shaking method of checking ball joints usually doesnt apply to torsion bar suspension unless the ball joints are totally blown out. I would say if you have more than about 3/16'' play then its time to replace them.


take your truck to a shop and have them "smoke" the vacuum system. they fill the vacuum lines with smoke to fidn the leak
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Old 10-11-2008
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Originally Posted by rdoebel View Post
The hubs not locking in could be a simple fix though. I'd recommend just going to the ford garage and have them inspect it and see what they find out. If it's something expensive, just swap in the AVM Manual hubs. Otherwise just have them fix it or order the parts and do it yourself.
I wouldnt go to ford for this, they will charge you alot just for you to pull it in the garage. If the t-case is engaging 4wd and he is sure its a problem with the hubs then it has to be a vacuum leak, its a very very common thing. The rubber lines get very small cracks in them and leak over the years. IMO it isnt worth it to replace all the rubber vacuum lines. I may not know what im talking about though, so my suggestions may not be the best.lol

Last edited by schatten789; 10-11-2008 at 04:38 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-11-2008
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If money is a problem...

One of these is the very problem that led me to this site. What was Ford thinking when they designed that front hub vacuum mess? You can "lock" the front hubs so they are always engaged. Use the writeup here ( https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=9211 ). It worked for me last winter, and one year plus 10,000 miles later it still works. This will lock your axle like the '01+ Rangers.

I have read somewhere else that the white piece that you pull the clip off of actually works like a "click-pen". if you cut a whole in the black disc that holds the assembly in place then you can walk to the front corners and have a push-to-engage hub situation. I'm going to try this as soon as I can find replacements from the junk-yard.

As for the ball joints and tie-rod ends, be careful. The ball joints from Ford will run you ~$900 for the four. If I had to get them done again i would go to a set of Moog joints that you can grease. My '92 Explorer had grease-able joints. When Ford switched to the IFS they took away the grease point on the ball joins for the Explorer, Ranger, and F-150, that I know of.

Why doesn't the standard 12-6 method of checking for ball joints not apply to torsion vehicles? if the vehicle is in the air then the knuckle should still move freely I am genuinely curious on this one because that is the standard check that I do.

Last edited by BigDaddy; 10-11-2008 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 10-12-2008
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First of all, i should been more specific..My hubs are fine, i have a CEL thats a vacuum line, i thought those were the brake lines i took a pic of? I thought if they are dry rotted then maybe that could cause my CEL?? So if thats the vac lines for the hubs, yeah i want worry about it, cuz some AVM's are on the way...The tie rod end stays the same only on the pass side, the drivers side stays turned forward???
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  #8  
Old 10-12-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddy View Post
One of these is the very problem that led me to this site. What was Ford thinking when they designed that front hub vacuum mess? You can "lock" the front hubs so they are always engaged. Use the writeup here ( https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=9211 ). It worked for me last winter, and one year plus 10,000 miles later it still works. This will lock your axle like the '01+ Rangers.

I have read somewhere else that the white piece that you pull the clip off of actually works like a "click-pen". if you cut a whole in the black disc that holds the assembly in place then you can walk to the front corners and have a push-to-engage hub situation. I'm going to try this as soon as I can find replacements from the junk-yard.

As for the ball joints and tie-rod ends, be careful. The ball joints from Ford will run you ~$900 for the four. If I had to get them done again i would go to a set of Moog joints that you can grease. My '92 Explorer had grease-able joints. When Ford switched to the IFS they took away the grease point on the ball joins for the Explorer, Ranger, and F-150, that I know of.

Why doesn't the standard 12-6 method of checking for ball joints not apply to torsion vehicles? if the vehicle is in the air then the knuckle should still move freely I am genuinely curious on this one because that is the standard check that I do.
ok not to jack this thread but i just had my ball joints replaced with moog ball joints so does that mean i need to grease them every once in awhile?

also for lower ball joints my mechanic charged me 179 bucks to replace both of them.
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Old 10-12-2008
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Grease them every oil change
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  #10  
Old 10-12-2008
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It is hard to tell from the pic, but if the tie rod boot is damaged, then the tie rod end needs to be replaced. Water and dirt will ruin the joint and it will lose its grease. The same goes for the ball joint.

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ok not to jack this thread but i just had my ball joints replaced with moog ball joints so does that mean i need to grease them every once in awhile?
Yes. Moogs have grease fittings.
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Old 10-13-2008
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The boot is fine on the tie-rods, its just the passenger side is tilted all the way back and the drivers is forward, all the time...

Anyone have the part#'s for ALL the Moog balljoints i'll need from Jegs?
I looked on there but theres a few different kinds, not sure what to get?
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Old 10-13-2008
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I just ordered all new ball joints and tie rod ends from rockauto, right about $325 for everything.

Mine didn't look near as bad as yours. But some of mine had little tears in the boot so I figured it was time to replace all of them.


https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=68937
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  #13  
Old 10-13-2008
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thanks man, well there goes my pay check this week including labor!!! Damn setbacks, well im gonna buy some new guitar stuff soon, amp and guitar some pedals...SO the ranger is gonna be put on the back burner for a few more weeks....
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Old 10-13-2008
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Dustin you can install that stuff yourself!
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  #15  
Old 10-13-2008
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Dustin you can install that stuff yourself!
I dont have any tools for that
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Old 10-13-2008
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You can't use the same tools you used for the bodylift?
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Old 10-13-2008
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the tie rod is fine. thats how they are supposed to look. cant answer anything else though
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Old 10-13-2008
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You can't use the same tools you used for the bodylift?
Well heres the thing, i dont really see that guy much. He used to be a friend of the family, but hasnt come around for a while. Well he told me i should give his dad (whos garage and tools i used) like 20 bucks for helping..Well i kinda forgot too late and havent talked or been back by there, so....
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Old 10-13-2008
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20 bucks could probably get you the tools you need.
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Old 10-13-2008
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20 bucks could probably get you the tools you need.
which are
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Old 10-13-2008
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What tools do you have?

Quote:
which are
Rachet, sockets, wrench, hammer, kinda just your basic stuff.
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Old 10-13-2008
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What tools do you have?



Rachet, sockets, wrench, hammer, kinda just your basic stuff.
I have a ratchet set, and a hammer outa that list...I was reading you need a press and other things, i dont have a jack either...My buddy's dad has the tools im sure of, im gonna see if i can do it over there
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  #23  
Old 10-13-2008
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Originally Posted by 08XLT4x4 View Post
the tie rod is fine. thats how they are supposed to look.
x2

If the boot is fine, than that picture does not indicate that anything is wrong with the tie rod end.

Jack up the front of the truck and see if there is play in the tie rod ends.
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