So....i was reading the instructions randomly and there is a steering extension?
Is that hard to put in at all?
Also, what would be the hardest part of doing the bl and what should i look to be careful i don't mess up..?

 

Hardest part is different for every truck, you really won't know until you get in there. Here are a few tricks of the top of my head

PB Blaster
Heat
Impact wrench

Steering extnesion isn't hard, unbolt stock, shake it like crazy until they become loose to pull apart, then put it back together. Not bad at all

 

you will need a steering extension but they are really easy to install. the hardest part will probably be making sure all your hoses and wires etc. have enough slack. i know that when i first did mine everything looked fine but when i started it up the fan cut a hose (i think it was a coolant hose or maybe something for A/C, it was about 5 years ago though) the whole process is pretty easy. just do the bed first so you get the hang of it and it should go buy pretty painlessly especially if you have an extra pair of hands.

 

easy to do but use a torch on the cab bolts it will def help out

 

just go ahead and heat the rear cab bolts and have someone hold the bottom washer while you impact from the top!!! heat the bolt until the tip turns red.......thanks beard!!!!LOL

 

no need to hold it if you heat till you smell burning rubber LOL.. keep heating the whole time you impact out... can do cab bolts in about 10-15 min tops lol

 

keep the torch away from the gas tank lol

 

For those that think he's kidding he's not, once you apply heat its a breeze to get them out.

 

I helped do some of my body lift a 4 wheel concepts... LOL those babies where FIRE red...works like a hose tho.

 

Theres no point in making them fire red, your just trying to melt the lock tite.

 

ya i dont recall beard holding it with anything when we did mine

 

The steering extension and the filler hose extensions come with the PA883 kit correct? everything i need comes with it?

 

Yeah I didn't hold mine either

 

everything you need comes in the kit unless you are a 5-speed manual then you need to order the extension for the shifter...



Fuel extension can be a pain in the *** the never seem to send the right size in all the body lifts i have ever done i still need to get a bigger vent tube extension.

steering extension is easy like everyone states..


Rad Drob brackets the lower one helps if you dent one of the sides in because it contacts a metal brace and can make it hard to install..


Rear bumper brackets 99% of the time need to be bent out more then they are a BFH fix's that problem...


Paint the front bumper brackets if your a 01+ truck because you will see them and it looks stupid on 98-00 truck the stock bumper bracket hides it so no need found that out after i painted mine lol...


that stupid Brake line shield is a little bit of a pain in the *** to get back on but its a pain even if your not doing a body lift lol...

Be VERY careful when lifting the body have someone spotting in the engine bay the whole time..

If your a 4.0L SOHC REMEMBER TO MOVE THE A/C HOSE otherwise you will be out $100+ to replace it...


a good thing if your gonna do it on sat and have some friends coming over to help remove the interior crap the night before and have it all ready saves alot of time..

 

Get the summit kit, its like 80 dollars cheaper and its the same thing.

 

What kind of extension issues have you all run into and how big was the body lift you put on?

I am getting a 3" suspension lift in the front at the beginning of the summer. However, if that isnt tall enough I'm going to put on maybe a 2" BL and eventually 33's or 35's (I have 31's right now).

 

They don't make 2" body lifts for 98+, the kit comes with ground extensions, radiator drop brackets, steering extensions, manual tranny extension (if needed, its extra), parking break extension. A few other things I might have forgotten. Oh and the bumper brackets.

 

That's dumb.

I'll cut those lift blocks down to size. haha.

I know I dont need 6" of lift in the front.

 

ok in the "tech Library" of TRS i see that step 38 says this


38) Weld the overload support brackets to the frame. There are four (4) locations (two{2} on short bed models) where the cross supports rest just off of the frame and there are no mounting bolts ( over the wheel wells). Weld the overload support brackets to the frame in these locations. This is so the cross supports have something to rest on when a load is placed in the bed. We recommend that all welding be done by a certified welder only.

What is this for?
im confused on this because is it that i won't be able to put as much weight in the bed or something? or will the weight amount i can put in the bed be the same?

Heres the link
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._BodyLift.html

 

its the bed crush blocks. most people never use them i have never installed a set to date on any body lifts. there made out of extremely cheap crappy steel hell it might be alum.. there not gonna do much.. when people install them you can just use like JB weld something to hold them to the frame no need to be welded

 

gotcha. will this affect my the weight i can put in the bed at all? i fill the thing with firewood every year at least 4 times.....

 

LOCKTITE!
don't forget that ingredient.

 

i've had 600 lbs in mine when i took stuff to the scrap yard, I'm sure i've had more than that at one point though..

The little crush blocks their talking about.. are pretty smashed lol, not BAD.. but not what they looked like 2 years age

 

haha in that case i will put them in just as a reinforcement for the wood because i have to bring it here regardless

 

Only prob I ran into was after the lift the lower rad hose was contacting the idler pulley,I used a coat hanger to pull the hose away from it and its still on there today.