Hey everyone,
need some help, no one in my area has a coder which can fit my 1994 ranger so i need help with what is going on. let me preface this post with my current mechanical skills end at changing the oil/tires and just changed the starter in the parking lot. I have a 1994 ford ranger 2.3 4 cylinder which currently dies when idling unless constant pressure is applied to the accelerator, even when sitting at a stop light/sign. new development is hesitation/surging while constant pressure is applied to the gas also speedometer will fluctuate. concern is also while driving random dieing of engine. when symptoms first appeared a drop in the oil pressure gauge and battery where noted now there is no warning. any help or suggestions appreicieated

 

Welcome to the forum

You can read the codes yourself in a 1994 Ranger, no code reader needed
Watch this video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=X07hu0kAuzE

You just use a short jumper wire on the OBD port in the engine bay and then count the flashes, 1994 will use 3-digit codes with NO zeros

List of those codes here: OBD-I Diagnostic Trouble Code ? Ford 3-Digit Codes : The Ranger Station

As for your current issues, the IAC(idle air control) Valve is the most likely problem, it is dirty and needs to be cleaned, or has failed.

The IAC Valve allows the computer to set the idle RPMs, if it is not working then engine will stall instead of idle.
IAC Valve is on the upper intake, it has a 2 wire connector, it is located near where the larger air tube from the air cleaner attaches to the upper intake, it looks like a smaller can on its side
remove two bolts to take it off

Looks like this: https://support.walkerproducts.com/f...215-2019_1.jpg

 

I would start with the idle air control valve and egr valve.

 

Thanks for the quick response folks, pulling the IAC valve tomorrow, but thought it would be a good idea to put everything out on the table so to speak just encase i have further issues. originally only problem was hesitation when driving up hill, the chug chug type, then progressed to random dieing of engine while driving. at this point i would see a flutter in the oil pressure gauge and the battery gauge then engine would die. after finally giving in to reality and trying to take it to a mechanic not only does the truck die but the clutch will no longer engage and the starter finally decided to crap out. while waiting on my shade tree mechanic to pick it up the battery died. so the current issues, replaced the battery, replaced starter, now truck continues to die at idle, able to keep truck alive with constant pressure to accelerator, while driving two different problems, first random dieing of engine while driving and the new issue of while pressure is applied to the gas truck misfires and the "chug" with loss of power and then stopping of engine.

 

Another easy is to replace the fuel filter. In fact I may try that first if its been a while. With a new battery you should be able to read voltage across the batter while its running and you should get upwards of around 13.4v. If not the alternator may be going out...

 

Just a quick update, just got done changing the inline fuel filter. a little concerned as some of the fuel that came out of the old filter while i was swapping them was cloudy. started truck, after 5 minutes has been able to continue to run at idle. still seems to run uneven so next step will be to check the plugs and the IAC valve. have not had a chance to make a test drive yet but at least there is some progress. thanks again for the help, further updates pending.

 

Thank you, is there a way to test the alternator with out a voltmeter? ( folks sold all the tools after i went into the navy slowly replacing as i can but haven't gotten a voltmeter yet)

 

You can unhook the negative battery cable while engine is running, although this can blow out the voltage regulator if voltage spikes, which isn't likely but not impossible either.

If engine continues to run after negative battery cable is unhooked then alternator is outputting at least 12volts, which doesn't mean it is "good" just that it is outputting at least some voltage.
Voltage at idle should be 13.5volts, minimum
If headlights dim at idle then at least 1 Field Coil in the alternator has failed, there are 3 Fields, all are needed

 

update after inline fuel filter change. the truck will now idle at most stop signs still have random dieing of engine at some. while driving have a reduced amount of hesitations and back fires but have not left entirely. after the cloudy fuel while changing the filter have a feeling that my plugs are probably fouled at the least so am going to try and change those while we have a holiday. any wisdom on how to get to the plugs on the driver side?Thank you to ronD for the alternator answer not sure how that would affect my current running issues but kenhigg mentioned checking it.

 

further question, problems started after serpentine belt was lost entirely and replaced, someone has mentioned timing as possibly being a problem any suggestions on you tube links to understand/fix timing issues? thanks again for the help and patience for my non mechanical self

 

Serpentine belt has nothing to do with timing.