Here's a pic of how I mounted the controller for my RS9000X shocks in my 2000 XLT. It basically involved moving the console 3" towards the seat, modifying the back of the console, and a couple rivets. I replaced my switch plate with aluminum as well. For more pics go to http://www.tombarcia.net/console

 

Looks pretty good Tom, Did you just do it this weekend?I did mine on saturday
heres mine

Ok for some reason the pics won't link so heres the original thread.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=5386

Did you have any issues with it leaking at all? I have an issue with one of the rears leaking. I think its something with the 90degree thing that attaches to the shock, I switched them on the rears and sure enough the leak moved, So I'm going to call Rancho and see if the will send me one of them 90degree elbows.

Ha Ha I also have that same CB.

Dave

 

I just mounted the panel today since it's raining and I can't work on the sliders. I'm hoping to get the rest of it done before Centralia. Hopefully there won't be any leak issues but I'm not holding my breath on that one. Did you put lithium grease on the O-rings??

Not only do we have the same CB, but we both mounted the same green switch in the same spot above the foglight switch.

 

no I didn't put the lithium greese on them, When I was testing them i went out and even bought me a new one, and used the lithium greese on it and still had issues, talked to there tech and put a drop of motoroil in the tube but that didn't work either. So they are sending me 4 of the 90 degree adaptors, with O rings.

The wierd thing is it seems to hold the air at about the 2 setting.

Yeah I missed the switch lol.

 

That's cool. I've heard of a couple people having similar issues and one guy actually used epoxy. I'm definitely not doing that. I wanna be able to remove the thing if I want.

I like what you did with the compressor and I was looking at that location but that's where I have the solenoid for my dual battery so I can't do that. I'm thinking I'll go on the fender beneath the underhood fuse panel. Did you remove the inner plastic fender to get the nuts on the bolts?? That's one part of this that I'm not looking forward to.

 

Acually we used sheet metal screws instead. Woulda been a huge pain to get the bolts in. Also here is another tip (I did this today) I had a few leaks when we finished so I went out to check them today. Well on all the connectors I had that screw in I used the teflon tape for gas and water pipes and seemed to work great.

I don't think I would want to epoxy them on either, as I got the old ***** for a backup if need be.

Also it was nice they gave you a ton of extra air tubing as well (worked great for testing the leaks.

 

I was going to ask if you had extra hose. I can't imagine how to use 90' of it but it's still nice to know from someone who's done it.

I believe I have tons of teflon tape around here from projects around the house so I should be good there. I have to figure out how I'm going to handle mounting the compressor. I think I'll be able to get to the bolts by removing the plastic inner fender. At least, I hope so.

 

Dave,

When you get the new adapters, let me know if they fix the leaks. I have leaks in both the front and rear and soapy water reveals that the rear leaks are where the hose goes into the adapter. The front doesn't foam up like the rear but I don't believe I removed the gasket from the fronts which is probably causing my front leaks. I'm considering a dab of silicone on the tubing but I don't know if that'll help and I don't wanna take the chance of the silicone getting into the shock.

You know the two ears on the compressor that are cast aluminum where the bolts go?? Mine broke off. Both of them. I'm going to have to send the stinking thing back now. What a pain!!

 

Well, I called Rancho and they're going to send me a set of adapters and the parts to fix the broken ears on my compressor. I don't know what parts it could be because the ears are part of the compressor housing, but we'll see when it shows up. They said the parts will ship tomorrow so I should have them by the end of the week... I hope.

 

Tom you can try adding a drop of motor oil to the line, to see if that helps the rear seal, thats what the guy at rancho told me to try. I will let you know if the new adaptor solves the problem or not. yeah I wouldn't use the silicone either.

That sucks that the ears broke off.

But I will tell you what, I will be super happy when I get this thing fixed, becuase everytime I need to adjust the shocks it seems like it was raining out, and I didn't want to crawl on the ground.

Good luck with the leaks

 

Haha... I tried the oil first as I remembered you mentioning it and it hasn't helped. In the front, when I replace the adapters, I'll be sure to remove the gaskets. I don't know how I forgot that but I did. I'm hoping that removing the gaskets fixes the problem up front because I can't find any leaks anywhere in the lines, compressor, or panel.

If you could let me know how long it takes for the parts to arrive, I'd apreciate it. I'm hoping to have them by the end of the week, but who knows.

 

yeah the lady tole me 3-5 days as there coming from California (she said they where gonna ship out today)

Hopefully removing the gaskets will stop the front from leaking.

 

Ok Tom,

I got the adaptors today, and of course the ups guy had to drop it off at 5:00 just after it started raining, so I will hopefully know if that fixes the leak tomorrow.

Dave

 

Thank you, I apreciate it. Do the new adapters have brass fittings where the hose goes or plastic like everything else??

 

Ok I just threw in a new adaptor the leek is even slower now, but its still there. So later today I'm going to try the others.

Yes the adaptors had the brass fittings for the tube.

 

Pic doesn't work for me...3

EDIT: I see now... looks good...

 

That sucks. I may end up using silicone if I can't get the leak to slow enough. I can deal with running the pump in the morning, but if they lose pressure while driving, then it's quite inconvenient.

On another note, I did a search and found that people have been using o-rings where the adapters connect to the gage panel instead of tape and I may try that too. That way, I won't have to put as much torque on the fittings. I'll mess with that after I get the new adapters tho.

 

I really think thats what I want maybe one day.