Does anyone know how high I can lift my truck or rear end of my 2010 sport 2wd Ranger before I have to extend the drive shaft?? How high can I go in the rear and what do i do is there an insert or something to add to the drive shaft??

 

Umm you can do a body lift which will give you 3 inches with zero drivetrain issues. If you get 3 inch lift spindles and do 3 inches in the back (like a lift shackle or blocks) you can probably do 3 inches and some axle shims to straighten out the driveshaft.

 

Thanks thats what I figured I have a larger then stock block and an extra spring added now and I figure I have 3" between the 2 in the rear now, and I have pre keys tuned 2 1/4" in the front and sorry I should have been more clear I was meaning with suspension lift I use my truck in fields and on farms but it's also my daily driver so anyway I need suspension lift and not body as I'm not really putting a large tire on it with highway gears but thanks for the info I believe im already 3" in the rear now and don't want to run in to drive shaft problems!

 

If you do anymore life than just the standard blocks and torsion crank you'll probably want to up the tire size a bit. It will look goofy with little donuts in big a$$ wheel wells.

I mean it just depends what you are trying to achieve the lift for. Looks, functionality, pre-runner. Whatever.

 

Thanks for your reply Masteratarms93, I am currently running p265 75r 15's I have the torsions cranked to the maximum 2 1/4" which is the higest recommended by ready lift, and roughly 3" in the rear between the added larger block and the extra leaf spring, I do use my truck in fields and on farms and like having a higher frame for missing rocks and tree stumps and for ruts etc, I'm at the point because of my highway gears (3:55) that I nneed to re-gear before switching to 33's or I'll have no get up and go fron stops especially when hauling a trailer! The truck is a daly commuter so It does need to be somewhat efficient for me but re- gearing from 3:55 to 3;73 or even 3:88 wont in my opinion kill my MPG's too much and I think in the long run it will save my clutch and wear and tare mainly in town in stop and go and with a load on, anyway the next mod is a re gear then tires later function first!

 

Yeah 3.55s is defiantly a crap set of gears for bigger tires. Go with 4.10s for anything need 33s

 

4:10's would kill me on the highway it's a commuter truck, I know a lt of guys with Yota's with 3:88 and 33's they seem to be the best combo for highway driving and working with, just te rigt amount of get up and go and they seem to hold well on a daily commuter situation, something a little higher then 3:73's but not revving like 4:10's.

 

Its a ranger. Not a toyota. Im on 4.10 and 33's and commute 140 miles highway per day. If i want planning on 35's next year i would be regearing to 4.56.

Right now i sit at 2k rpm's @ 65 mph.

 

I'm aware it's not a Toyota but it's very comparable to the late 9's early 2000's Taco, and those are pretty good numbers what fuel MPG's would you say you get then if your revving at 2000 RPM and are you losing a lot of momentum in up hill climb on the highway at those RPM's or does it hold pretty well?

 

It does ok on the highway. Cant give accurate mpg as its winter and the cold reduces mpg. And i always seem to find a place to play in the snow which kills mpg.


Honestly though i wouldn't want lower (numerically) gears.

 

6.2 if you get 35s go with 4.88s. I love mine, the low end torque is pretty awesome and I never really noticed bad rpm rangers or bad mpg. I also have no problem going 85 or anything.

 

well speaking from experience of the long travel, when i hit 16" from axle to bumpstop my driveshaft was rubbing the crossmember. so 15.5". i have about 1/8" clearance at full droop lol.

hop that helps. we have a friend here who has easily 12" lift without modifying the driveshaft, all suspension.

 

That's the plan yup. That's why i didn't go 4.56 now. Because I'll go 4.88 when i get 35's. 4.88 would be a bit much for 33's lol.