Rear ABS / Speedometor
Rear ABS / Speedometor
I've been having some trouble with these two problems for some time now, with no solution. I have also searched around on RPS. A couple people on there couldnt figure out theirs either. I have searched around online and have found that these two problems are caused by the same thing.
1. My ABS light comes on and turns itself off occasionally and clicks while braking, sometimes making it almost impossible to stop where i want it.
2. My speedometor is erratic, sometimes dropping to 0 and other times jumping back up to my actual speed. Other times it will just float around in the middle. Which is really annoying because it doesnt calculate my odometor accuratley.
I've tried fixing these problems by replacing the ABS/Speed sensor on the rear axel, to no avail. (Part number ABS530780).
I have also tried cleaning the connector underneath the drivers seat. This still did not solve my problem.
1. My ABS light comes on and turns itself off occasionally and clicks while braking, sometimes making it almost impossible to stop where i want it.
2. My speedometor is erratic, sometimes dropping to 0 and other times jumping back up to my actual speed. Other times it will just float around in the middle. Which is really annoying because it doesnt calculate my odometor accuratley.
I've tried fixing these problems by replacing the ABS/Speed sensor on the rear axel, to no avail. (Part number ABS530780).
I have also tried cleaning the connector underneath the drivers seat. This still did not solve my problem.
1999 Ranger 2wd / M5OD / 2.5ltr.
You used electrical contact cleaner right? I had the ABS light and clicking, sometimes the speedo would do wierd things too.. I completely soaked the pins on the inside of that connector underneath the drivers seat with the cleaner, let it sit for a few minutes, put it back together (make sure you get it all the way on) and it solved the problem. That seems to be a common problem with 98-00 rangers so it seems. Hope you get it figured out
I agree with the above. The only addition I would make would be to pack some dielectric grease in that connector after cleaning it. That should help keep the water out and might prevent further corrosion and future problems.
Since i didn't have anything to apply to it, the only thing i had around the house was a can of air. So i had sprayed that into it. But i will have to try electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease.
Be sure to inspect the individual pins to see if they are corroded and need to be cleaned up. On rare occasion, Rangers used in the Rust Belt have had pins in that connector completely corrode away.
if im not mistaken, there is also a ABS Solenoid. Which my dealership has replaced 2x so far. tho, my speedo is pretty accurate, but man, "they claim" ABS isnt supposed to allow u to lock your wheels? HA! Personally, I think they should make ABS an option, not "u have to use it" I hate ABS.
Originally Posted by FMD
if im not mistaken, there is also a ABS Solenoid. Which my dealership has replaced 2x so far. tho, my speedo is pretty accurate
Here are some possible causes as I see them:
Bad ABS/VS sensor - good possibility but already changed
Tone ring problem - possible but not likely
Bad Module (4WABS or GEM) - possible but not likely
Bad Speedometer - possible but not likely
Poor wire connection - good possibility
One thing we need to know is if your truck has 4WABS or RABS. Both were available in 99 but the wiring is different. With a 4-cylinder/manual truck, my guess is that it is less likely to have the optional 4WABS. Not sure, though.
Bad ABS/VS sensor - good possibility but already changed
Tone ring problem - possible but not likely
Bad Module (4WABS or GEM) - possible but not likely
Bad Speedometer - possible but not likely
Poor wire connection - good possibility
One thing we need to know is if your truck has 4WABS or RABS. Both were available in 99 but the wiring is different. With a 4-cylinder/manual truck, my guess is that it is less likely to have the optional 4WABS. Not sure, though.
My fiance keeps insisting that it is the sport trac cluster that i installed a year ago. I have been having this problem for about a month. Doesnt quite add up.
EDIT: Which wires should i check and where?
EDIT: Which wires should i check and where?
Last edited by Diabolic; Jun 7, 2006 at 10:35 PM.
The cluster has nothing to do with the ABS system. It's only a read-out of functionality.
I have a 2000 4-cylinder and it has RWABS. I'd recommend getting a VSS from a junkyard and trying an OEM part in place of your "Western Auto" replacement. That's the only likely cause of these symptoms, other than a sporadic ground short in the wiring, or a bad connection at either the sensor, the harness under the driver's seat, or the module behind the radio in the dash.
I have a 2000 4-cylinder and it has RWABS. I'd recommend getting a VSS from a junkyard and trying an OEM part in place of your "Western Auto" replacement. That's the only likely cause of these symptoms, other than a sporadic ground short in the wiring, or a bad connection at either the sensor, the harness under the driver's seat, or the module behind the radio in the dash.
Originally Posted by rwenzing
RABS is rear ABS only. 4WABS is for all 4 wheels.
You can look at the front spindles to see if you have the wires to the front ABS sensors. No wires means that you have RABS.
You can look at the front spindles to see if you have the wires to the front ABS sensors. No wires means that you have RABS.
No wires in the front so i have RABS. Although the clicking does sound like it's coming from the front if it makes any difference.
Originally Posted by Needforspeed3685
Have you checked the ABS module that's located behind the radio bezel? It has a wire harness, maybe 2, that could be loose or corroded. I'll see if I can find a diagram of it's location...
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NedoMedo
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Feb 23, 2012 05:04 PM




