alright so my 3.0L 97 runs great only 50xxx kms, but when i go to shift, i shift at 2300 rpm to get to second, and from first to second i always make it jump, i let the clutch out smooth and slow, but i did a test and no matter what rpm i shift at it hangs at the rpm for a second when i let off, this is super annoying and i either get jumps and rough shifts or i hold up trafic shifting slow, my dads a pro and can shift it fine but he said it does hang at an rpm for a while, is it me, lol, or is the cable stiff etc, i did put to zip ties on the end of the cable to take out the slack mod.

any help?

 

Throttle cable sticking?

 

Your throttle body could be gummed up with carbon causing the throttle blade to stick. You can clean it.

 

Or you have a slight vacuum leak.

 

okay, how should i go about cleaning the throttle body, could a vacuum leak be found by the IAC ? i took it apart to clean it maybe the gasket isnt sealed perfectly. thats all i have done

 

anybody? please lol i get my licence in 15 days and i want my truck to run fine so i dont look like to much of a dork

 

To clean the throttle body: unbolt it from the intake manifold and unbolt anything else attached to it. Get a can of throttle body or carb cleaner, spray down the TB and use a toothbrush to scrub off all the carbon. Make sure to do a good job around the shaft where the butterfly pivots. To find a vacuum leak with the engine running spray ether,brake cleaner, or carb cleaner around the vacuum lines, upper and lower intake, anywhere there could be a vacuum leak allowing unmetered air into the engine. When you find a leak the idle speed of the engine will increase.

 

okay thank you, i hope its not a vacuum leak, or if it is i hope its just the IAC because thats the only thing i have taken apart, and taking the slack out of the throttle cable with zip ties, also i dnt know if it matters but when i first start it from a cold start it jumps to 2000rpm, is that a little high for canada for cold temps.

 

2000rpm will be normal if it's a really cold start,but the revs should drop almost immediately to around 1000 or slightly less at idle.

 

my truck did the same and i made a restrictor plate. it goes where the iac gasket is and causes a restriction of air flow at idle and it drops rpm soo much faster now and u can rev it up and it then drops like a carbureted engine instead of hanging up there like an efi one. read some of these.

http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...stricter+plate

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for...d.php?t=229423

http://mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=18330

 

okay thanks alot, ill see if the plate fixes my problems

 

when you made the restrictor plate did you put the small hole towards the back or the front

 

put the small hole towards the front of the truck and the bigger hole towards the cab of the truck.

 

There is no need for a plate or anything else if all other components are working properly. Why would you change the way the factory designed it. The computer looks at many sensor to determine idle speed. Also don't spray any of those things I listed at hot engine components because you could cause a fire.

 

You should check for the vacuum leak when the motor is cold because that is when it should be the most noticeable. my 3.0 hangs all the time, as did my 5.0 F-150. it is a normal for thing, it helps when shifting so the vehicle doesnt buck when you let out the clutch shifting into the next gear, and it is supposed to help for emissions purposes as well

 

My 06 manual trans Mustang did the same thing.
So does my gf's 08 manual Mustang.

Emissions and smoother shifting. Learn to shift with it is the best advice i can give.

That is assuming there is no leaks or a gummed up butterfly valve

 

Hmm I think you could try running Seafoam through it, or use some throttle body cleaner to blow out some of the **** in there.

 

well im going to take the zipties off the throttle cabble, try it out, something tells me thats not the problem, then ill try cleaning the throttle body (the butterfly is the flap itself correct?) then ill try seafoam, then ill give the bracket a shot. hopefully something minor is whats the problem, ill try spraying carb cleaner around all pressureized intake areas.

 

im telling you. make that thing out of some plastic like what a plastic road sign would be made out of and take out ur old gasket. trace it on the plastic and use tin snips to cut it out. then i used a drill bit the size of like a sharpy for the big one and a really small one for the other. like an ink cartridge in a pen. (small plastic bendy ones) and it took like 5 mins and u can install in another min and if u dont like it i doesnt hurt any thing but if u try it i can almost guarantee you'll like it. and if not put ur old gasket in and throw away the restrictor. o and for the guy that said why would u want to change the way the factory set it up. why would u put lift, lockers, gears, stereo, exhaust, intake or any thing like that on ur truck. cause it can be better than factory.

 

yeah for sure im gonna make one, i have some aluminum, it about as thick as a cd is that too thick or does it really matter? as long as its not like an inch thick

 

ya that will work perfect. do u have like a band saw or something to cut it with?

 

yeah i have metal snips, if not ill use the footshear

 

ya i dont no if the snips will cut through that thick of aluminum but it might.