I think I'm running into a problem due to the fact that my truck basically has no bulbs left. EVERYTHING is LED.

Before I changed my cluster and hvac this wasn't happening. Those were previously my only bulbs left.

When I turn on my turnsignals the running lights try to blink in unison with my turn signals. I do have the electronic flasher and they do blink at the correct rate. For example if I turn on my right blinker the left running light on the tail light will also barely blink, along with both front corners, and the left headlight turnsignal (keep in mind these are all LEDs)

I think the problem is that I am not drawing enough current when I turn on my turnsignals and it is bleeding into my running lights. Since it did not do this when I had a regular bulb cluster I am assuming that the problem would go away if I put a load resistor somewhere on the running lights circuit just to use up some of this current. I only know a few people on RF that have as many led's as I do so I might be on my own in this one.

 

I think your electronic flasher is leaking voltage where it shouldn't be.


Try a different flasher. You can take it back if its not the problem.

I have yet to upgrade signals to LED. I have not heard of anyone else having this issue. Maybe they just haven't noticed.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the flasher does not have an output for running lights, as they aren't supposed to flash. Flasher just looks at signal input (turn signal switch on) and generates a flash output for those circuits. I think this problem is traced back to the smart-junction-box. Ranger's aren't supposed to be LED by design. I'm drawing basically NO current on my lighting circuits. I think I will need a current-sponge of some sort to soak up some juice... I'd still like to get some other opinions on your idea.

It is logical that this is running-light related. If you think about it, cluster lights and hvac lights are basically running lights - they are on with the parking lights.

 

hmmm....

i know you said their junk...but.....

http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481

http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481

In-Line resistor's i believe is the cure. They'll trick the computer into thinking they are incandescent's. Trevor actually has a similar thread right now abou the same issues he's having.

 

I didnt know you had a newer truck with the smart boxes.

Are you sure the running lights barely blink, or is it the turn signal on the opposite side that's blinking? Im assuming you have a two bulb setup.


Im thinking that your flasher just leaks some current to the opposite circuit. The flasher shouldn't even be connected to the running lights. However i don't have a wiring diagram to verify this.

 

I am absolutely positive it just leaks into the running lights. My tails are wired with 2 different led bulbs per side. the running light one is on the bottom, and only the bottom comes on.

What about if I diode isolated the turnsignal flasher?

Yes my truck is a new truck (2004).
Trev should call me so we can talk.

 

I know if you have a dual filament bulb, such as a combination turn/brake/running light and the filaments short together, current will travel through the running light circuit and make them flash dimly, could you possibly have some wires buddying up?

 

There are no 'filaments' in LEDs

 

Yeah I know, that's why I asked if you have an wires possibly rubbing together.

 

Nope, the problem goes away when I put the stock bulbs back into the cluster. I'm **** about sealing and insulating my wiring. It is feedback in the circuit, I just don't know the best way to get rid of it. I want to avoid wasting power through resistors.

 

How 'bout installing a **** load more leds until you match the current draw of an incandescent?

 

Because I don't want a suntan when I take a drive...

 

I say if you do a big resistor or a group of resistors, make sure to use heatsinks. I guess there is too much of a good thing, lol. Or do what Johnbaum13 said, uber LED, maybe make a huge cluster into a parabolic reflector to make headlights, lol.

 

See, there you go, you're headlights aren't LED yet. lol.

 

I think the leakage path is in your instrument cluster! To verify this, unplug your instrument cluster, and see if you still have the problem.

 

With a dual filament bulb, you can loose the ground for the bulb, and you will have a current path through both filaments (assuming one is off). However, with LEDs, one will be forward biased, and the other one reverse biased, blocking any current flow without the ground.

 

Turbo, how are you generating the proper voltage for all the LEDs?

 

Unplugging the lighting source makes it do it still, I checked that last night.

I should have tried running turnsignals without a cluster even in there but I never thought of it before I did the mod.

 

All of my running lights are 12volt plugins or OEM leds designed to work off 12V.

My cluster has 5 strings of LEDs..


+12 ----3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---100Ohm----Ground
+12 ----3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---100Ohm----Ground
+12 ----3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---100Ohm----Ground
+12 ----3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---100Ohm----Ground
+12 ----3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---3.0V LED---100Ohm----Ground

all 5 strings are in parallel (they share the same +12 and ground)

My HVAC has 2 strings of LED's, same as above, but only 2 strings of 4, instead of 5.

I am using the stock location for the stock bulbs to steal power for the leds

 

Unplug the entire instrument cluster!

 

I can take the cluster in the house and it still acts up (just tried)

however, if i take a 906 standard incandescent bulb, and hook it up with alligator clips into the hvac lighting harness truck acts perfectly normal....

 

What is the easiest running-light wire to tap into that is near the drivers seat (behind it) I want to avoid having to tap all the way in by the hvac and running wires back to behind the seat (thats where I'm going to hide my little bulb - in the "3rd door" if I had one, under the storage tray where no-one can see it)

 

Diodes may fix your problem. I just don't have a wiring diagram handy to look at.

 

Yeah, but for now I'm going to use the "hide the embarrassing looking extra incandescent bulb" trick.

 

Anyone offer any help on which is the easiest running lights wire closest to behind the drivers seat area?