The "What did you do to your Ranger today" thread
#5327
2008 Ranger - Tires and wheels
First time to post...thinking about changing out the stock wheels and changing tires out from 225/70R/15's to 235 or 245 70 R 16's...am I going to have to make any modifications to the suspension of the truck to accomodate the new tires/wheels? If so, to what degree? I've had the truck for 6 yrs and decided to start making some changes to it. Any help would be appreciated...thanks!
#5329
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
First time to post...thinking about changing out the stock wheels and changing tires out from 225/70R/15's to 235 or 245 70 R 16's...am I going to have to make any modifications to the suspension of the truck to accomodate the new tires/wheels? If so, to what degree? I've had the truck for 6 yrs and decided to start making some changes to it. Any help would be appreciated...thanks!
I am running 33 x 12.50 BFG All Terrains, and I am also running a 4.5" Lift Kit and the 33" tires still rub.
Judge from there !
#5333
Installing a remote starter. Adding it to my Avital keyless entry. Install isn't bad. Took a little time to find certain wires, but... while I was taking stuff out/apart I said I need to address the wire management...This is why everything looks like that...lol
It's actually a good thing. No shoddiness here. I'll post up a video/pics once it's done. Hoping to get it completed today. I spent about 7 hours yesterday cleaning stuff up and running wires for the remote start. If you didn't know it would all look oem.
-Nigel
It's actually a good thing. No shoddiness here. I'll post up a video/pics once it's done. Hoping to get it completed today. I spent about 7 hours yesterday cleaning stuff up and running wires for the remote start. If you didn't know it would all look oem.
-Nigel
#5337
Did front brakes. Had a really bad shake at around 40mph when braking down to zero... Figured the front rotors were warped. I believe one was. The brake pads were fine but, decided to go with Akebono since I have them on all of our vehicles. Also did wheel bearings and seals since I was there. No more shake. I guess this will last another 2-3 years like the last one. I've never seen a vehicle go through rotors like the ranger does... crazy..lol
Also had the rear view mirror come off... how fun. I bought the permatex rear view mirror kit which held the mirror for all of 2 minutes before adjusting it and it snapping off. Ended up using some 3m windo weld. That stuff is beyond awesome. Every time I have used it nothing ever comes loose after using it. It will be my go to stuff if I ever need stuff stuck permanently. Picture is after the mirror fell...lol
-Nigel
Also had the rear view mirror come off... how fun. I bought the permatex rear view mirror kit which held the mirror for all of 2 minutes before adjusting it and it snapping off. Ended up using some 3m windo weld. That stuff is beyond awesome. Every time I have used it nothing ever comes loose after using it. It will be my go to stuff if I ever need stuff stuck permanently. Picture is after the mirror fell...lol
-Nigel
#5338
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Did front brakes. Had a really bad shake at around 40mph when braking down to zero... Figured the front rotors were warped. I believe one was. The brake pads were fine but, decided to go with Akebono since I have them on all of our vehicles. Also did wheel bearings and seals since I was there. No more shake. I guess this will last another 2-3 years like the last one. I've never seen a vehicle go through rotors like the ranger does... crazy..lol
Also had the rear view mirror come off... how fun. I bought the permatex rear view mirror kit which held the mirror for all of 2 minutes before adjusting it and it snapping off. Ended up using some 3m windo weld. That stuff is beyond awesome. Every time I have used it nothing ever comes loose after using it. It will be my go to stuff if I ever need stuff stuck permanently. Picture is after the mirror fell...lol
-Nigel
Also had the rear view mirror come off... how fun. I bought the permatex rear view mirror kit which held the mirror for all of 2 minutes before adjusting it and it snapping off. Ended up using some 3m windo weld. That stuff is beyond awesome. Every time I have used it nothing ever comes loose after using it. It will be my go to stuff if I ever need stuff stuck permanently. Picture is after the mirror fell...lol
-Nigel
You must be hard on your braking, My OEM rotors lasted 8 years, the second set was put on not that long ago, so far so good but I expect to get 6 plus years from these.
I don't understand how people go through pads and rotors so fast.
Pads thats another story though, probably every two or three years.
The rear view mirror, yours is the second posting in a week about not being able to get the Mirror to stick... I have had a few drop off over the years but after using the standard 3M adhesive kit they have stuck without problems. I think the trick is two fold, one being the major thing to do is CLEAN UP THE WNDSHIELD REALLY GOOD; and two is to press the tab to the windshield, gap it by picking it up and the setting it back on the windshield, hold for perscribed time, and then... let the tab set !
Don't put the mirror back on for thirty minutes to an hour.
The next time a mirror falls off on me it will never go back on or at least will not stick to the windshield, my bad !
The adhesive you mentioned will probably stop all of this rhetoric about how the mirror kits are not working !
Just IMHO !
#5339
Surpringly I'm not hard on the brakes at all. The pads looked new. The longest I had my brakes on my one car, was I got roughly 70k miles out of the pads and rotors on my STi, so almost 7-8 years..lol For some reason the ranger likes to warp rotors. In fact when looking at the pads I was a bit bummed throwing them out since they had hardly any wear at all... But we'll see how the akebono's do. I like them on the other vehicles that we have so I suspect they should be good on the truck.
I had actually set the tab and let the truck sit for about 6 hours before putting on the mirror. It was fine up until I adjusted it and then it just snapped off. Everything was super clean prior so I just suspect the permatex stuff not being that great. The 3m windo weld is black so it blends in right with the metal tab and tint bar up top. I used the 3m windo weld on my ureshi rear windshield spoiler on my STi over 10+ years ago... it's still holding to this day no problem. In fact, if I ever wanted to remove it I am pretty sure I would have to break the rear window to even get the thing off.
-Nigel
I had actually set the tab and let the truck sit for about 6 hours before putting on the mirror. It was fine up until I adjusted it and then it just snapped off. Everything was super clean prior so I just suspect the permatex stuff not being that great. The 3m windo weld is black so it blends in right with the metal tab and tint bar up top. I used the 3m windo weld on my ureshi rear windshield spoiler on my STi over 10+ years ago... it's still holding to this day no problem. In fact, if I ever wanted to remove it I am pretty sure I would have to break the rear window to even get the thing off.
-Nigel
#5341
This is my 2nd post on this forum after my intro post. I am a virgin to auto repair. Literally, I have never even done an oil change. So be gentle.
Here is what I did today:
Here is what I did today:
- Replaced fuel pump (truck bed removal/slide back technique)
- Replaced fuel pump electrical harness
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced fuel filler hose which was cracked at tank connection and leaking
- Hose clasps weren't sealing to aftermarket fuel pump manifold and leaked fuel.
- Refused to cut fuel line ends as suggested by a neighbor and use hose clamps!
- Creatively resolved by fitting O-rings (purchased at Home Depot) over the manifold tubes to decrease the gap and add tension between the hoses and clasp flange. It took two O-rings of the proper diameter and thickness to bridge the gap but they did the job.
- Replacement fuel pump electrical harness from O'Reily's doesn't secure itself to O'Reily's aftermarket fuel pump and would pop off under vibration. Had to push truck back home (short distance, live and learn), remove truck bed all over again :/.
- Non-creatively resolved with JB Weld :)
- Was able to replace the electrical harness since I have crimpers from another hobby of mine
Last edited by DiepBotchery; 06-20-2018 at 01:37 AM.
#5342
#5343
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
This is my 2nd post on this forum after my intro post. I am a virgin to auto repair. Literally, I have never even done an oil change. So be gentle.
Here is what I did today:
Here is what I did today:
- Replaced fuel pump (truck bed removal/slide back technique)
- Replaced fuel pump electrical harness
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced fuel filler hose which was cracked at tank connection and leaking
- Hose clasps weren't sealing to aftermarket fuel pump manifold and leaked fuel.
- Refused to cut fuel line ends as suggested by a neighbor and use hose clamps!
- Creatively resolved by fitting O-rings (purchased at Home Depot) over the manifold tubes to decrease the gap and add tension between the hoses and clasp flange. It took two O-rings of the proper diameter and thickness to bridge the gap but they did the job.
- Replacement fuel pump electrical harness from O'Reily's doesn't secure itself to O'Reily's aftermarket fuel pump and would pop off under vibration. Had to push truck back home (short distance, live and learn), remove truck bed all over again :/.
- Non-creatively resolved with JB Weld :)
- Was able to replace the electrical harness since I have crimpers from another hobby of mine
At the going rate around SoCal you just saved yourself around $800.00/labor, not a bad day's work !
Something I should look into sooner than later.
#5344
Thanks brutha! If you run into the same problem with the fuel leaking once your reinstall the OEM hoses to the aftermarket manifold, remember the O-ring fix. Don't know how prevalent that problem is for such a job but it was a $0.56 part from Home Depot. So glad I refused to slice off the ends of the fuel hoses.
#5346
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Thanks brutha! If you run into the same problem with the fuel leaking once your reinstall the OEM hoses to the aftermarket manifold, remember the O-ring fix. Don't know how prevalent that problem is for such a job but it was a $0.56 part from Home Depot. So glad I refused to slice off the ends of the fuel hoses.
What truck, what engine, etc. ?
Ltr
#5349
Power steering ???
Hi, I am new to posting questions. My '94 Ranger has 64,000 orig. miles. I replaced the p.s. pump a few years ago. Both pumps are noisy. I was told to find a new NOS pump. I am retired, and getting worn out with it. The truck looks great, always garaged. Any ideas? I would really appreciate the Forum's suggestions. Thanks, Gary
#5350
Hi, I am new to posting questions. My '94 Ranger has 64,000 orig. miles. I replaced the p.s. pump a few years ago. Both pumps are noisy. I was told to find a new NOS pump. I am retired, and getting worn out with it. The truck looks great, always garaged. Any ideas? I would really appreciate the Forum's suggestions. Thanks, Gary
I'm new to the forum too, btw.