I'm getting number 3 but I have the 5.4. All Rangers should order number 2.

Actually I think both valves are the same. Yeah they are.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Pr...oductCode=F106

 

oh duh you dont have a ranger hahaha

 

Haha yeah. They actually use the name pan bolt so its the same valve. My girls car needs a oil change so I'll go ahead and order one for her car.

 

this is the first time ive heard about these. can someone please explain how they work and what the benifits are?

 

Hey that valve thing is pretty cool.

Wouldn't you guys be worried about metal shavings mixing in with the oil from tapping out the threads?

 

Its just a ball valve built into the drain bolt. No tools required to change the oil and no mess.

 

We use those at work on all of our welders and they drain very slow.

 

I can thank Big O Tires for my leak...

That valve does look interesting...might pick one of those up.

Making sure to clean off the drill bit every so often while tapping would minimize the shavings. A small amount wouldn't hurt. We did this with my cousin's Mustang that shot out a spark plug. We installed a sleeve and cleaned the bit every so often, and also vacuumed with a small tube after. Been running fine since.

 

people are talkin about tapping a new hole? or does this one fit in the stock hole. and do u just turn that lever, put a hose on one end and it drains out? damn thts a good *** design

 

I'd rather it drain slowly then the oil that seeps down my arm everytime i change my oil. lol

 

You can coat the drill bit in vaseline too and it will help with shavings.

 

They're talking about replacing the stripped out bolt with a bigger one, something totally different. The valve fits in the stock hole. The sell 2 versions, one with just a hole and another with a nipple to attach a hose too. Yep just flip the valve and let the oil drain.

 

damn and I just bought a plain old replacement drain plug from Vatozone because my 11 year old bolt was rounding out

 

for tys 4x4 we were talking about drilling and taping it to a bigger than stock size(his is stripped)
for everyone else you can get one the fits the drain plug hole and it will screw right in and yes just turn the level and the oil drains no tools needed when done push the tab back and it locks is it wont open on its own

 

I had one on my 93 and it was awesome... It made it pretty damn easy to change the oil

 

You could also use wheel bearing grease on the drill bit. Either way, you're still going to get metal shavings in there.

 

heres the game plan. its leaking a bit more. so first thing tomorrow morning im gonna order this little valve. when it gets here i will drain the oil (should be okay with the filter since its nearly new right?) and then locktite on the valve and hope the sumb!tch doesnt leak!

 

and hope the valve doesn't ever malfunction..

 

i dont see how a simple valve like that could. if it does, then i'll break down and buy a new pan.

 

All the reviews and info on their website I've read it won't happen.

 

JB Weld > Loctite

just make sure you let it fully cure

 

those valves work fairly well, only thing to worry about with them, and i don't think it would effect the rangers, is they stick out from the pan, so it is easy to snap off if you bottom out on something... it's more for sports cars with pans that hang low, like mustangs for instance, the pan goes around the k member... on a truck like ours, it should be fine, and the drainplug should be protected... but i've seen tonnes of oil pans covered in yellow paint from people hopping curbs, and the drain plugs pulled right out due to that, never mind a valve that sticks out an additional inch...

alternate option is this...
this threads into your existing hole, it is slightly larger than your stock plug, the ones i have used have the slit in the threads to cut new threads, and there is a hole in the middle of it, with a plug in that, so you drain with the plug in place, just take the smaller plug out... it's very low profile, so you don't catch it on much (albiet more than the stock plug)





as for the shavings in the oil, you are going to be drilling, and taping, with the oil drained out, so they aren't going to go far from the hole, half a liter of oil through will flush it out, what doesn't get flushed out will very quickly get caught by the oil filter

 

you could also try sticking a magnet as close to where drilling as possible then remove it and flush with oil.

 

can't wait till the valve gets here! ive been banned to parking in the street until i fix my oil leak hahaha

 

should i be okay with the filter i have in there now? it only has 100 miles on it right now. or do i need to change it out again whenever i put that new plug in