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Won't warm up

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Old Jan 24, 2018
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Matthew.peterson991's Avatar
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From: St .Paul
Won't warm up

I had the water pump go out on my truck so I replaced it and the thermostat. After replacing it I can't get it to warm up past the cold line on the gauge. I tried replacing the thermostatic clutch and the thermostat (both parts are motocraft) for a second time with no luck. I've also completely blocked the front grill. The upper hose gets warmish and the lower hose stays between 30-60° F (temp gun), Upper hose makes it to 110 at most. I've also made sure the air has been completely burped out of the system. I do live in Minnesota so I warm the truck up for about 10min before driving and after 30 min of driving the best I got was 110. Any ideas on what to replace next?

99' xlt 3.0 flex fuel 87,000 miles
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018
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From: arthur
make sure that you orient the thermostat correctly , it may jammed open by the internal casting

i made that mistake once , the thermostat is shaped a certain way to properly fit into the hole
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018
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From: St .Paul
Originally Posted by cheese_man
make sure that you orient the thermostat correctly , it may jammed open by the internal casting

i made that mistake once , the thermostat is shaped a certain way to properly fit into the hole
I checked the thermostat and it's in the correct way. I just noticed that I don't have the skid plate on the front of the truck either, could that be part of the problem?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018
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From: arthur
that is not the problem , the thermostat is the suspect

have you done the hot water test , the thermostat is opening too early , the coolant is being constantly cooled by the radiator
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018
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From: St .Paul
Originally Posted by cheese_man
that is not the problem , the thermostat is the suspect

have you done the hot water test , the thermostat is opening too early , the coolant is being constantly cooled by the radiator
If by hot water test you mean putting it in a pot of water and bring it up to temp I have not, I'll give that a shot. What concerns me is that the lower radiator hose stays cold while the upper hose gets to about 110-125. Which leads me to believe that the thermostat is staying closed.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018
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From: arthur
you have the info back wards 110-125 degrees which indicates the thermostat is staying open or being jammed open when warm

or just a faulty thermostat , which is actually good ,
you never want a thermostat jammed in the closed position ( engine overheat )
meaning

you should replace the coolant temperature sensor , if you are using green coolant ( requires a good flush ) the sodium in the green coolant wreaks havoc on sensors

it may be giving a false reading

replace the coolant with the yellow coolant
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018
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From: St .Paul
Originally Posted by cheese_man
you have the info back wards 110-125 degrees which indicates the thermostat is staying open or being jammed open when warm

or just a faulty thermostat , which is actually good ,
you never want a thermostat jammed in the closed position ( engine overheat )
meaning

you should replace the coolant temperature sensor , if you are using green coolant ( requires a good flush ) the sodium in the green coolant wreaks havoc on sensors

it may be giving a false reading

replace the coolant with the yellow coolant
Its had a complete coolant flush when I did my water pump. The 110-125 temp I am referring too was done with a temp gun aimed right at where the sensors read and done directly on the coolant. The gauge on the truck roughly reflects the reading. Would a bad sending unit cause this issue?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018
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From: arthur
plastic and rubber are not good places to read coolant temperature

you should have pointed the temp gun at the radiator fins

the fins and tubes will give a close to accurate temperature reading

i always replace coolant temperature senders when i replace thermostats

it is always cheap insurance to do the water pump / thermostat / sender all in one shot
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018
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From: St .Paul
Originally Posted by cheese_man
plastic and rubber are not good places to read coolant temperature

you should have pointed the temp gun at the radiator fins

the fins and tubes will give a close to accurate temperature reading

i always replace coolant temperature senders when i replace thermostats

it is always cheap insurance to do the water pump / thermostat / sender all in one shot
Ok I'll retest it there after I replace sending unit tomorrow.
 
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