Air Bag trouble codes... - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 10-24-2004
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Hello all. I still have not figured out what is wrong with my ABS that the light has been on for 2 months but yesterday morning my airbag light came on. The light seems to flash a code 27 rather than staying on constant. If anyone knows where i can find information on what this may mean and how to fix it, I would be interested in hearing about it. If not, I'll be taking it to the dealer for both problems later this week.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2004
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Why aren't you just taking it to the dealer? There is a TSB for air bag lights, depending on what the code is for.
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2004
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Tom, there is a front impact sensor down by the bumper/valance.
Check to see if got messed up when you 'removed' your valance. :idea:
The SRS has an extended warranty beyond other mechanical parts so you might still be covered at the dealer.

Regarding the ABS - a wheel sensor is probably shot or misaligned - could also be your VSS so check the rear pumpkin and see if it is on top and in one piece.

I have read that some of the auto parts shops let you borrow their code reader, maybe you could stop by one (pepboys, star, autozone etc...) and ask to use it to read the code.
Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 10-25-2004
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The reason I'm not taking it to the dealer is because they charge $65/hr (minimum) for labor whereas my labor is free. I can also get the parts cheaper than the dealer would charge me. And since this is my only vehicle I can't afford to be without it for 3 days while they stand around discussing it and charging me for labor.


Neil, I was not aware of the additional warranty coverage on the SRS. I'll have to look into that although John gave me a couple ideas for places to look. When I get home I'm going to break out the service manual and try to figure out how to check the ABS sensors to make sure they're working as well as remove the cupholders to look at the airbag module. I have switches mounted to the right of the passenger airbag switch and could have interfered with the airbag wiring or module somehow.

With any luck, I'll be able to get these things sorted out myself so I don't have to vanquish my truck to the land of overpriced and incompetant repairs.
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  #5  
Old 10-25-2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBarCYa
The reason I'm not taking it to the dealer is because they charge $65/hr (minimum) for labor ... I can't afford to be without it for 3 days while they stand around discussing it and charging me for labor.
Ha! Ain't that the truth!

Best of luck man..
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2004
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That's what they did to me last time and to top it all off, they told me that my warranty company wouldn't pay for 1 hour labor to replace a seal in the transfer case that requires the case to be split so they wanted me to fork over $89. I told them to do the work and I called the warranty company only to be told that they had already worked it out with the dealership the day before and that the dealership was "double dipping" by trying to make me pay for labor they were already getting paid for by the warranty. Warranty companies and dealerships... Definitely no honour among thieves.
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2004
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Pinpoint Test M: LFC 27/DTC B1884 Passenger Air Bag Deactivation (PAD) Warning Lamp Inoperative

Normal Operation

The restraints control module (RCM) has the ability to deactivate the passenger air bag under certain conditions. When the passenger air bag is deactivated, the passenger air bag deactivation (PAD) switch warning lamp will be illuminated.

The RCM monitors the PAD switch warning lamp for open or short to ground conditions. If the RCM detects an open or short to ground condition on the PAD switch warning lamp circuit, it will store a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1884 in memory and flash a lamp fault code (LFC) 27 (or higher priority code if one exists) on the air bag indicator.

Possible Causes

A PAD warning lamp inoperative fault could be caused by:

wiring, terminals, or connectors.
a damaged or burned out PAD indicator.
a damaged or inoperative PAD lamp.
a damaged or inoperative RCM.
a blown PAD switch I/P fuse.
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  #8  
Old 10-25-2004
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DAMNIT!! I just found that information on another site and was coming here to post it but you beat me to it. According to what I've read, the bulb is not in a socket so people were soldering a new bulb to the old one. I'll be opening mine up tonite.

Thanks.
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  #9  
Old 10-25-2004
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I could have given you that info before, but I wasn't motivated to look it up. Then I saw you post more times about it and started to feel your pain so I got you the info.

You might be able to ohm it out (the bulb) before you tear into it, it could still be a bad RCM. You will also still need to clear the code when you are done.
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  #10  
Old 10-25-2004
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Tom, the information Dave posted (and you found) is all on the service CD I gave you. Put that puppy in and install it tonight! All will be revealed, Grasshopper! :)
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  #11  
Old 10-25-2004
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I have to kick Trixie off the windows PC for that. The CD doesn't run on Linux.
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  #12  
Old 10-25-2004
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lol! No it doesn't -- more's the pity!
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  #13  
Old 10-25-2004
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My CD wouldn't even run on windows! I meant to ask some of you tech types about that at Centralia..
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  #14  
Old 10-26-2004
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Who uses CD's? I just logon to the website.
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  #15  
Old 10-26-2004
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Sure sure, just loan me your login info 'k?!
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  #16  
Old 10-26-2004
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Westin Ultimate Bull Bar finally offered for Ranger:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave and Julie
Who uses CD's? I just logon to the website.

CHEATER!!!
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  #17  
Old 10-28-2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave and Julie
You might be able to ohm it out (the bulb) before you tear into it, it could still be a bad RCM. You will also still need to clear the code when you are done.
Thank you for the info. It turned out to be that the bulb burned out and soldering in a new bulb resolved the issue. Regarding the ABS light, it turns out to be a bad rear wheel sensor. I stuck the ohm meter to it both at the harness under the hood and at the sensor itself and got readings out of range so I'll be replacing the sensor tonite.
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  #18  
Old 10-28-2004
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It's pretty easy stuff when you have a little information. It's also amazing how much chaos a $1 part can cause these days.
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  #19  
Old 10-28-2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave and Julie
...It's also amazing how much chaos a $1 part can cause these days.
Man, ain't that the truth!
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  #20  
Old 10-29-2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LILBLUE04FX4L2
Regarding the ABS - a wheel sensor is probably shot or misaligned - could also be your VSS so check the rear pumpkin and see if it is on top and in one piece.
Well my seat of tha pants diagnosis was correct sir.
The bad VSS probably explains why you were locking the front wheels on the down hill at the Burma Road.
Glad you got it worked out and for not too much money Tom.
Now you just have to bill yourself for the hours spent fixing it and you will be finished.
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  #21  
Old 10-29-2004
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That makes sense because my ABS hasn't worked in a couple months.

Does the ABS disable when in 4wd?? I'm thinking about it now and I can't recall ever having it push back at me while in 4wd.
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  #22  
Old 10-29-2004
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From my experiance (4x4 snow driving) the ABS stays on line even in 4 wheel high anyway.
Now I never had the opportunity to check in in 4x4 low range so I can not answer that part of the equation.
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  #23  
Old 10-29-2004
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I'm pretty sure mine doesn't! And I'd rather it did. The system seems to get all confused. Either that or I just don't know how to drive. It has given me problems too..


:-(
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  #24  
Old 10-29-2004
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I would rather it disabled when in 4wd too or at least give the option. ABS is ABSolutely useless when offroad but could be useful in the snow.
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  #25  
Old 11-01-2004
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Re: Toyota Corrola + Female on Cellphone vs Firetruck

ABS cannot work properly without a center differential. You cannot effectively brake a single wheel with the front and rear drivetrains are connected. To brake the front axle is to brake the rear, and to brake the rear is to brake the front.
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