I have read practically every ABS thread on this Site (and other Sites as well). Many of the threads on this Site never come to a resolution and the OP never comes back to give the final result. Some that start with discussion on front ABS get hijacked and end up talking about the rear sensor in the pumpkin. This is of course easily determined because it also runs the speedo (below 2001 - thanks fddriver02).

I have just replaced the front Rotors/Pads/Bearings/Seals in my 2004 Ranger 2WD. I replaced the stock rotors with Powerslot Slotted Rotors (8551PSR/8551PSL) and Hawk HPS Pads (HB472F650).

For those that do not know, the front rotors for a 2WD are "full" rotors that slide onto the spindle and not slip on a hub over the wheel studs. They are held in place by the inner and outer wheel bearings with a seal for the inner. They contain the ABS Tone Ring on the inside (back side of the rotor assy).

After installing all of this, I now have the dreaded Ranger ABS kick in at speeds under 40mph. When it kicks in, the front shudders and you can hear the ABS pump working. The truck pulls to the Left (Driver's side). Sometimes it lights the ABS light right away and sometimes it takes awhile for the light to come on. When it does come on, the Red Brake light also comes on. No codes are set in OBC II. Of course when the truck is shut off and restarted, the lights are not there until I brake normally again under 40mph.

When it does light the ABS/Brake lights, the braking system works fine (no more ABS). So, I doubt that there is any air in the system. The fluid in the Master Cylinder is at the proper level. There is quite a bit in the engine compartment where the "mechanic" compressed the calipers, but I have wiped that up as much as I could.

I pulled both front wheel sensors (from the backside of the wheel assembly without taking the wheel off) and found them to be a bit dirty with a "bar" of collected brake dust across the front face of both of them. I cleaned them real good with brake cleaner and wiped them down and they are now nice and shiny. But I still have the problem.

I did not do the replacement of all these parts myself, but had it done at a local shop. I did not get to look at the sensors from inside the wheel housing. I did not get to see if there is a second part of the wheel sensor that slips OVER the tone ring or if the sensor is just the one I know of only on the back (inside) of the tone ring. I am assuming that it is only the one I have described and nothing else is needed (or broken off/mis-adjusted by mistake).

I know the workaround about pulling fuses but on a 2004 the fuse is #20 and it handles backup lights and a few other things as well. I did pull the harness connection from the ABS Pump and that works fine (immediately illuminates ABS/Brake lights on dash when started) by disabling the ABS system and of course the truck brakes fine at all speeds. This is only a work around and I would prefer to fix the problem correctly.

I did have a look at the rotors before they were installed. I did notice something strange that both of the rotors did not look and were not stamped the same. The Passenger side (Right) had lots of numbers and made in Canada. Showed min as 2.45" (as I recall). It was also nice and bright shiny. The Driver's side (Left) had only the stamp of "F78" or something like that and 2.47". It was dull coated (not shiny like the other). Is it possible I got a wrong rotor for the driver's side? I checked the part numbers on both boxes and they were the same. I have sent an email to Powerslot about this and awaiting an answer.


So, other than taking this to FORD and getting totally RIPPED, does anyone have any suggestions? I would like to fix this myself if possible and then post the fix here for the next person that has the same problem (which shouldn't be too long now..........).

 

One thing. From 01 and up the speed is read at the tranny not the rear sensor. I'm not sure about the solution to the problem though. Maybe the front sensors are too far away from the tone ring.

 

Thanks for that info on the rear. Did not know that. I edited my original post.

The sensors in the front are not adjustable. They are either in or they are out. The tone ring is at the same location on the Powerslot Rotor as it was on the stock rotor and looks exactly the same.

 

I have sent messages to all Powerslot email addresses and they all have bounced back.

This is the reply from "Karrpilot" @ FlatRateTech:

My guess would be something wrong with either one or both of the exciter rings on the new rotors.

Maybe the ring is made of a material that is not up to par with what came from the factory. Maybe the placement on the rotor. IE it is in too deep, or not deep enough, from the factory one.

What usually happens when one has unwanted ABS activation is mostly an air gap issue between the ABS sensor and the exciter ring. But since you also have aftermarket parts now, i would be paying very close attention to those new rings.

It also is possible that the thickness of the rings, along with their placement on the rotor is causing you a problem.

Based on fddriver02's and Karrpilot's responses, I will be installing factory FORD or equivalent rotors with another set of new inside bearings and seals on Saturday or Monday. I will report back if that solves the problem or not, but I believe it will since I had no ABS issues before installing the Powerslot rotors.

 

Replaced the Powerslot rotors with Duralast (Autozone) rotors and no more problems. Everything with ABS working fine now. Obviously one or the other Powerslot rotor was not correct.

Expensive lesson!

 

I can get and sell powerslot rotors at cost, and this is one reason im not fond of them. Count the number of teeth on the reluctor ring on the Ford rotors and the Powerslots and see if it is different. This could be a cause

 

Well, I have the new Autozone one's on the truck now so, counting teeth between powerslots and them are out of the question now as I am not going to fool with it anymore.

Once these new autozone ones wear out (2-3 years or more) I will have a look at the number of teeth when I take them off again.

The correct part number for autozone (Duralast) is 54104 for 2004 2wd ranger with 4 wheel ABS and torsion bar front suspension, 11.25".

 

While I was trying to find out what the problem with the Powerslot rotors were, I talked to the people I bought them from (AutoAnything) and confirmed that they shipped the correct parts. I also sent an email to Powerslot (Centric Parts) who are the makers/wholesalers for the Powerslots.

Today, I received a reply from Pat McCleish at Powerslot offering to work with AutoAnything and provide me with a replacement set of Powerslot Rotors.

I am taking him up on this offer and will continue to purchase Powerslots again in the future. I will just have a better look at them before I am into the installation process in the future.

I gotta say, I was surprised I got an answer from Powerslot and even more surprised that they are replacing the defective rotors. This is what I call good Customer Service. The way things should be.

 

Well, Powerslot offered to send me replacement rotors, but since I already had Auto Drone rotors installed on the truck, I requested a refund, if possible.

Powerslot worked out the refund with AutoAnything and today I received a full refund on the Powerslot rotors. I didn't have to contact AutoAnything myself at all!

I am very happy with the way Powerslot and AutoAnything has handled this and will buy from them again.

 

Glad to see eveything worked out.

 

Good to know Centric/Powerslot stands behind their product, and are willing to work with you.

 

I've had ABS problems after replacing rotors twice on my 2006 4wabs rwd. The 1st time I thought of nothin of but a defective tone ring placement in rotor, the gap between the tone ring and abs sensor on spindle assy.
I had the same problem during another install years down the road and came to the conclusion the tone ring and the rotor are seperate pieces where the tone ring is pressed into the rotor assy. I've found that installing the inner grease seal one could as I PROBABLY did caused the tone ring assembly to be pressed moreso into the hub assembly while pounding the inner grease seal into place.

I've got to do the brakes on my other '00 Ranger and was wondering if anyone here has any pointers on the best procedure to installing the inner rear seal onto the rotor without having the tone ring being further pressed into the rotor assy.?
I figure I could stick some type of wedges between the tone ring and rotor But never read of anyone having to do that. Is it just me not having the knowledge/expertise of the installation of the inner grease seal onto the rotor?
it was a lot of work installing new rotors then having to replace them again. Yikes!