I know, I know, it doesn't say Ford on it, but I digress.

I've got a 2002 Mazda B4000 4.0 V6. 136,000 miles. Never had any problems until a valve spring broke...

Ever since having a clown at a sinclair gas station do thee engine work for me (I know, I know. Came highly recommended from brother in-laws dad.... First clue.), I've been having issues. First, he hooked up the pick-up coil pigtails and the fuel injector pigtails backwards, so obviously it was misfiring like a ****. And he didn't hook up cruise control, or my sound system, but that's another story.

Then, two weeks after getting it back for the second time, it barely started, and I watched the voltage drop all the way home. I assumed alternator issues.

Replaced the alternator with a 130 amp unit, replaced the battery, same thing. Very low voltage. Battery voltage, open circuit = 12.6v. Battery voltage running, 12.6 volts. Replaced the alternator with another new one, just in the offchance I was sold a bad alternator.

My next thought is that this clown didn't hook up a ground. The body ground on the passenger side of engine bay looks fine. Where are the other grounds?

Fuses all tested fine, visually, and each had continuity.

Any other thoughts?

 

I had this problem when I replaced my alternator and I have really no idea why it was happening to me. When I tested my new alternator (not a reman), it gave me the following info:
Three tests (two of which said bad grounding, one gave a good grounding)
12.6V on Battery
14.4V on Alternator (with fluctuations from 14.4V down to 11.9V at random points, with A/C off and no load)
Running Amps: 58 A (which I have recently found out that on a 130 amp alternator is normal, because 130 amps continuously would most likely damage the charging system and whatnot)
Don't know if this helps at all, probably not because I don't think I offered any ideas. Someone once told me that Ford alternators (which would intice Mazda, considering Ford owns Mazda) have a special type of electrical setup on them, but I am unsure.

 

Not much help, but it's good to see some numbers, and even better to see a response. Not much assistance offered here or on other ranger forums. I appreciate the response

I'm just going to rewire the whole deal. I suspect one of the fusible links may have failed, since there is no continuity. Cut them out to inspect. Don't mind the messy cuts, the whole deal is getting rewired anyways.

This bugger.



Also forgot I have immediate access to wiring diagrams for any vehicle... Wish I'd have remembered earlier, would have saved some head scratching.

Unfortunately all my diagnostic tools and Mac toolbox are all at school over break... Limited to crap china tools and without my trusty multimeter until next week.... Oh well, I've been without a car for two months straight, what's another week on one of my motorcycles?

 

Rewired alternator to battery, fuse box, everything. New fusible links, all soldered. Charging like a champ

 

THANK YOU! I've been scratching for an answer for 2 days and yours is the first one that describes my problem and sounds logical. I replaced the battery, the alternator and the battery cable clamps-still running 12.5-12.75v.

Where exactly did you locate the 3 sections of fusible link? My harness is almost totally wrapped and I have no clue where to begin the hunt...

I have neither the owner's manual nor a shop manual [they have ones for '96 and newer on the forums but earlier owners are seemingly SOL].

 

Sent you a pm, dean. Fusible links melted down after another week. The root cause is a shorted wire running from ac compressor.... So check for bad grounds and shorted wires if your links are fried