I purchased a 2000 Ranger 3.0L with 142k yesterday, no signs of squeaking, but this morning when cold it squealed for the first minute until the oil began to warm up.

How quickly do I need to get moving with replacing the cam synchronizer? Should I avoid driving the car until I can get around to getting it replaced? I am going to DIY, but I need to research more about it, because I don't really understand the orientation/installation part yet.

 

The synchronizer drives the engine oil pump. Many engines have been needlessly destroyed because of a failed synchronizer. I wouldn't wait long.

Professionals use a special tool to time the synchronizer to TDC compression cylinder 1. This is the approved way to do it.

Lacking the special tool, a DIY alternative is to mark the current position of the synchro and CMP (camshaft position sensor) on an adjacent surface and install the new parts to match. The alignment of the CMP is important but not quite as critical as precision timing a traditional distributor. Done carefully, this "backyard" method will usually get you close enough. Obviously, if the crankshaft is rotated while the synchro assembly is out, this method won't work.

The genuine Ford/Motorcraft synchronizer is not the most robust part on the engine. However, aftermarket parts have an even worse reputation. This is one of those times when I would definitely go OEM.

Shop around. Motorcraft prices vary widely. Also be sure to get the exact parts and matching tool for your year/vehicle/engine. There are many different synchronizers and cam position sensors and alignment tools. Even within the same engine family, buying for the correct year and model matters.

 

Thanks - so I need to ensure that if I don't turn the engine to TDC, I need to mark both the inner piece and outer shell and put the replacement synchronizer in the exact same place?

 

Yes. Doesn't matter if you set it at TDC or not - just don't move the crank/cam while the synchronizer is out or you will need the tool to retime it.