Compressor Cycling - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 04-15-2015
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Compressor Cycling

Sorry about another thread about this but none of the other ones fit my question. My compressor is cycling about every 5 seconds and not kicking in. I can see that everybody is saying that the freon is low and to add some. I've even watched videos on it with the same condition. I'm worried about the level that the gauge is showing now. When the compressor isn't engaged the pressure is in the red around 80 and when it kicks in it drops quickly down into the yellow around 60 or so boarder-line red though.

I've placed about 1/2 of an 18oz can into the system and it is blowing cold now when I'm moving or giving it some gas but during an idle it blows air but is slightly cooler than before I started.

The main question do I ignore the pressure that I'm seeing and keep forcing freon into the system and hope that the compressor will eventually stay engaged.
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  #2  
Old 04-22-2015
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Not that I'm an expert in MVAC, but are you sure those pressure numbers are where they should be? Something is telling me you're incorrectly charged...and if you needed to add coolant, you have a leak that needs addressing BEFORE recharging.

And yes, there is a low pressure cutoff switch on mine, which stops the compressor from engaging if there isn't enough coolant in the system (also, I suppose, when it's malfunctioning), right up on top of the accumulator/dryer on the low side. You can trigger the compressor to work by jumping 87&30 at the compressor relay; that's when you should be trickling coolant in while watching your pressures, but unless you know WHAT they SHOULD be and WHEN, you're simply guessing and could be headed for a mess of trouble that's a whole lot worse than your AC blowing mediocre cold.

Take it in to a shop. If you overcharge, it won't cool as effectively, just as if you're undercharged. In your case, if you overcharge, you can't evacuate the extra coolant legally; just as you are breaking enviro laws with a leak. In either case, you can be damaging the system further running it in either condition.

Last edited by 01b3000ds; 04-22-2015 at 09:54 AM. Reason: further thought
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Old 04-25-2015
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OK, I picked up a manifold set from Harbor Freight. I checked the pressures and on the high side it was only 100 but the low was at 50 when the compressor would kick in but looked like it would drop lower if it had stayed on longer. I started to add more freon to the system but it was so difficult to add at 2 seconds at a time so from looking around it said to throttle it up a little bit so the compressor would stay on longer. Slowly I was able to add more and gradually the compressor would stay on longer. After it stayed on all the time I checked with the manifold set and it hi was at 170 and the low was at 25. I added until it read at around 35 which it looks like it ideal for this truck. Now the pressures is at High 185 and the low at 35. I shut off the gauges and I hear the hiss. I start to look around and found it coming out the the port where the gauges are hooked up to. I reattached the connector to the port. How long could I leave it on there? I know that I will be purchasing a new piece to replace this one or do I need to? The bigger question is what is this part called.

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Old 04-25-2015
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You likely have a bad schrader valve core that will not seal back up. They go bad over time. To fix it properly you will need a new valve core which are very cheap but you will lose all your refrigerant if you do not have a special tool which I do not know if they have for mobile applications. The other quick solution to fix this would be to get a cap on it that has a good o-ring in it. Probably your cheapest and quickest solution. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-25-2015
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Before you go and get a new valve put on, read this thread from another forum, now that you have the manifold gauges:
A/C Charging with Easy Cheap Safe Alternative Refrigerant - RX7Club.com
You'll need to buy a tap and some refrigerant, and get a new accumulator/drier assembly, and then have your system evacuated and a vacuum put on it. I would also suggest looking into CERMA treatments and proper synthetic ester oil...but after that, it'll be all you and enviro friendly.
This works. VERY well.
Good luck.
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2015
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Thanks. Even with the connector on there it didn't seal it or I have another leak somewhere. Need to get in there and look for the dye.
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  #7  
Old 04-25-2015
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01b3000ds, am I reading that thread correctly. They are using the computer duster cans as the refrigerant.
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  #8  
Old 04-25-2015
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Yessir, that's correct.
It works. VERY well.
Follow the directions.
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  #9  
Old 04-29-2015
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OK 2 additional questions in regards to this. I have a slow leak somewhere in the system. So far I don't see any of the green dye from anywhere and the batteries don't work on the little light that came with the system so I need to get another UV light to see if I can see anything using that. Any ideas where the common place is for leaks, I would think one of the rings along with the service port that I've already seen.

I picked up a service port repair kit so I'm going to replace both pins. I also picked up O rings and will re-do them.

I'm going to order an accumulator but getting confused. Both are these are from Amazon: Spectra Premium 0233058 A/C Accumulator says replace Drier and Four Seasons 33058 Accumulator This one doesn't say that. I've seen some like this one Ford Ranger A/C Accumulator/Drier | Part Number: 60-30801 | Discount AC Parts that makes it look like there are 2 different parts. I only see one canister in the engine area. All of the pictures and the book only shows 1 item.
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  #10  
Old 04-29-2015
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leak - depends on where it is. you may have an issue with one of the joints, or it may be the compressor, or maybe a stone to the condensor...At this point, every point of failure is a distinct possibility given the age of the vehicle.

Also, terminology: accumulator = drier. same thing. I'd go with the 4 Seasons myself, but that's just brand recognition.
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  #11  
Old 04-30-2015
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Thanks for the terminology thing. I assumed that was the case since in manuals I can only see 1 piece.

Didn't mention it but a couple years before I stored the vehicle I had almost the whole AC system replaced during the summer heat since 1 piece failed after another. I can't say what all was replaced or who did the work at least 3 visits. I will know what is going to be replaced this time as I'm going to do it. I guess I'll start with the accumulator, joints and the valves and to see what happens. At least if I do (I think I am) go with the R152a stuff at least it will be cheap if it does escape again.
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2015
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Yes, exactly! (and it will escape...)
It's widely available, inexpensive and ozone friendly. Added benefit, it'll save fuel too. In my case, since I made the swap, I've seen my mileage (with the AC running) not drop quite as much as before. And it gets COLD, which you'll appreciate since I seem to recall you're in FL. I haven't needed to recharge since last summer, but if/when I do, I'm going to try the CERMA additive to see if that helps with leakage/fuel economy.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2015
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Just a reminder that the temperature in the evaporator is controlled by sensing the pressure in the evaporator, and then cycling the compressor on and off. The temperature should not get too close to freezing otherwise the evaporator will freeze condensate on the surface.
So, even if you have the correct amount of freon in the system, the compressor will still cycle depending on several conditions. If the ambient is high as in the hot summer months, the compressor will run more often or perhaps continuously.
That is why I always run my A/C in recirculate. This takes a huge load off of the system, and after the interior is cool, the compressor will cycle even in very hot weather. This will reduce the load on the compressor, and even save fuel.
The correct amount of refrigerant is critical to prevent high compressor pressure, and proper cooling. It is a very interesting subject.

Last edited by mmisk; 04-30-2015 at 03:43 PM.
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2015
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Yes I am in Florida and we have already had around 7 above 90 days and many days well above normal temps this month. We had a cool front roll through we we are back into the upper 70 so don't need the air as much currently. I'm going to place my order for the accumulator and maybe it will be here on Sat or Sunday and try to get it in and the other O-rings replaced and re-charged.

Right now I'm only getting air circulating. I had a couple days of cold air in the cab while the freon lasted.

Thanks again for your help.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2015
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you DO realize it's not just the dryer, right? now's the time to hunt down that leak and then evacuate/vacuum the system (after repair) before you change to r152a. you'll need ester oil, can side tap, vacuum pump...
no point in throwing away good money after bad. I'd take it to a shop for them to diagnose your leak if you can't seem to find it. when they do, pay them to vacuum the r134a out, And THEN you can put the new dryer on and recharge with 152a. And it will have to be you, because they might make up excuses why you can't use this unapproved chemical in YOUR truck. They'll be sceptical or resent that you, a non-licensed, non-MVAC person might know a bit more than they do.
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