E-Fan + 160 t-stat + AC always on = over heating
ya i am having a problem here i always have my ac on full blast and my truck has a 160 t-stat i have the jusnes controller and e-fan.....i am thinking of wiring it up to a switch....it only happens when i am running my ac on max and i am guessing that the e-fan does not kick on or what is going on here?...need to get this fixed before i lift my truck
tony |
Yet another reason I HATE electric fans.
I'd say somethings up with your controller. Possibly your temp probe is messed up. Does your fan even work? Did you splice into a wire on the backside of the heater/ac controls? |
The Jusnes fan kits are junk. If you want an efan that works, get yourself a Taurus efan. Maurice had one on his Ranger and it would hold a piece of paper on the radiator. It cooled perfectly.
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why are you running a 160 degree thermostat?
is your engine computer programed to run this temp? |
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
(Post 991790)
Yet another reason I HATE electric fans.
I'd say somethings up with your controller. Possibly your temp probe is messed up. Does your fan even work? Did you splice into a wire on the backside of the heater/ac controls?
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
(Post 991832)
why are you running a 160 degree thermostat?
is your engine computer programed to run this temp? i am going to take the t-stat competely out again and see if it over heats i also want to know does any1 have there e-fans wired to a switch???? |
Programming the ECU isn't that big of a deal unless you run the fans from the ECU. The reason people do lower temperature T-stats is they would have the ability to run a few degrees more timing. Are your fans turning on at all? Splicing into the HVAC, your fans should turn on when the AC turns on. Check the voltages to and from the controller. What was the reason for the switch? Is the power side of the fans fused?
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If your fan is indeed running? It most likely **is** your t-stat.
A colder stat will stay open longer and if the heat is great enough.. it won't close. Then what happens is the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool down. The whole cooling system just continues to build more and more heat. On a stock ranger.. go back to the stock 190 or maybe a 180 stat. Don't go colder than this on a street driven ranger. Trust me on this.. I'm a genuine expert in the subject. ;) Regards, Rich |
ok when i turn my ac off it goes back to regular temp so its not my t-stat....its so hot down here....i am just going to take the t-stat out again and wire the fan up to a switch and see if thats helps
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The A/C makes engine temps to go up, even if you have th stock fan.
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ya but not overheat
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Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
(Post 991935)
If your fan is indeed running? It most likely **is** your t-stat.
A colder stat will stay open longer and if the heat is great enough.. it won't close. Then what happens is the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool down. The whole cooling system just continues to build more and more heat. On a stock ranger.. go back to the stock 190 or maybe a 180 stat. Don't go colder than this on a street driven ranger. Trust me on this.. I'm a genuine expert in the subject. ;) Regards, Rich How's your coolant look anyway? throw a gauge in that thing and find out. |
i am going to change the coolant this weekend as well....right now i am running water and alil bit of coolant...
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Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
(Post 991935)
A colder stat will stay open longer and if the heat is great enough.. it won't close. Then what happens is the coolant doesn't stay in the rad long enough to cool down. The whole cooling system just continues to build more and more heat.
Regards, Rich the opening size for a 160 and 195 thermostat will be the same, with the same flow through the radiator. The 160 will just open sooner than the 195. We do agree that the OEM temp thermostat should be used. |
i ran my truck last summer with no t-stat and it never over heated i put one 1 for the winter and it started over heating in the summer i just got done take out the t-stat when u live somewhere were it gets 110+ in the summer u will over heat cuz of any lil reason
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well if your not gonna listen to anyone that knows then why did you ask?
your truck is going to continue to overheat, and taking the thermostat out is going to make it overheat faster! your truck is computer controlled, the PCM looks for proper engine temp then it determens how much timing to put into the engine and also how long to keep the fuel injectors open, all this is based on engine temp. its called "calibration" now if you were running a carborator then it would be different. i'd put a 195 back in and find the real problem. |
it gets that hot here, and i have the stock mechanical fan, stock thermostat, and i run the a/c on max all day long, i never overheat, my advice is-just go back to stock, as stated by 04 EDGE, its all contolled by the PCM, your truck know how to keep itself cool as long as you leave well enough alone.
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that's the whole problem, well enough is never well.............enough......
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I run a 160degree T-Stat with an External Temp sensor thats in the lower radiator hose ( I believe ZaBeard has his running as well ). Never overheated.. YET. Don't think it will either.
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Originally Posted by D.
(Post 992374)
I run a 160degree T-Stat with an External Temp sensor thats in the lower radiator hose ( I believe ZaBeard has his running as well ). Never overheated.. YET. Don't think it will either.
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Originally Posted by Takeda
(Post 992066)
However, the opening size for a 160 and 195 thermostat will be the same, with the same flow through the radiator. The 160 will just open sooner than the 195.
The stats passages are not the issue. The coolant constantly moving is. Rich |
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
(Post 992740)
Hence my point Bob. When the stat is open all the time.. the coolant does not reside in the rad long enough to cool down.
The stats passages are not the issue. The coolant constantly moving is. Rich This is why NO THERMOSTAT will cause an over-heating condition! And, as D has posted, he has never had an overheating problem with a 160! |
Originally Posted by Takeda
(Post 992597)
I would not think you would want a temp sensor in the lower radiator hose, that is going to be the coolest location in the entire cooling system. Where the coolant exits the engine at the thermostat will be the hottest, that's where the temp sensor needs to be. A 160 thermostat is way too cool!
The factory sensor measures what? The one in the lower hose measures what? WOW! Someone would actually be able to tell if their cooling system was WORKING! My exhaust is quite nice in tone and hides the E-fans volume/noise/sound. There needs to be a way to tell/monitor whats going on. Its wise to protect ones investment when they have a few grand into their mill. |
Originally Posted by D.
(Post 993014)
For once, don't be a.. TRY and think WHY someone would want to do such?
The factory sensor measures what? The one in the lower hose measures what? WOW! Someone would actually be able to tell if their cooling system was WORKING! My exhaust is quite nice in tone and hides the E-fans volume/noise/sound. There needs to be a way to tell/monitor whats going on. Its wise to protect ones investment when they have a few grand into their mill. |
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
(Post 992740)
Hence my point Bob. When the stat is open all the time.. the coolant does not reside in the rad long enough to cool down.
The stats passages are not the issue. The coolant constantly moving is. Rich Are you aware of any vehicle cooling system that requires the thermostat to close to allow heat transfer time in the radiator? Stant's response (Chris Hoffman): Not aware of anything like that. |
bob, dont be stupid!
please go away. |
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