EATC Uh-Oh - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 04-11-2008
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Icon9 EATC Uh-Oh

Anyone on here that knows anything about EATC's please help. I have had mine installed for about 5-6 months and no problems. Now all of a sudden it will turn itself on and I go to turn it back off cause I don't need to run it and it will turn back on again. This is not always but is becoming more and more frequent. Also when I turn it on automatic now after 10-15 minutes the fan sign lights up on the display? What in the world is going on.

Please help.
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Old 04-11-2008
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Bad key pad or cable inside. Take it out, open it up and see if something looks "off".

This can occur due to mechanical damage, like something hitting the faceplate buttons hard, or something getting spilled or splashed into it.

If you clean your dash, NEVER spray cleaner onto the faceplate of any device in the dash. Spray the cloth so it's just damp and wipe.

You're not going to have much choice here -- probably you're going to need a new EATC unit.
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Old 04-11-2008
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Sounds to me like the head unit is taking a crap. Try running the self test to see if it throws any codes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz Car Domain How-To
Advanced self-test mode

The EATC has an advanced self-diagnostic test mode. A great description of it can be found here on the P71 interceptor site I mentioned previously. What he's posted is a direct "cut and paste" from the Ford service manual. I'll paraphrase here and add some additional codes you may see not mentioned in that document.

Basically, what you do is press and hold the OFF button on the head unit, then press FLOOR while still holding down OFF. Now quickly release both buttons and press the AUTOMATIC button.

At this point a little line will appear to rotate in the middle of the display. This indicates testing is in progress.

The test can take what seems to be a long while when you're waiting for it! Just let it run and don't worry.

At the end, the display will begin flashing numbers, or it will simply light up everything on the display and halt.

If only "888" appears for the number, and everything else on the display is lit up, then you have passed the advanced self-test! Congratulations! You can now proceed with the installation.

If there are numbers, write them down as they appear. Here's what they mean:

022, 024 - Blend door actuator shorted

025 - Blend door actuator not responding properly

030 - cabin temp sensor shorted (either wiring or bad sensor)

031 - cabin temp sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)

040, 042 - outside (ambient) sensor shorted (wiring or bad sensor)

041, 043 - outside (ambient) sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)

050, 052 - solar radiation sensor shorted

115, 125 - bad/no data from vehicle network (you'll get this always testing outside the vehicle)

There may be others depending on the year, particularly network ones -- but these are the main ones you have to deal with.

Whatever happens, press the DEFROST button to clear the codes, then activate self test again.

If you got numbers, they may be the same ones, or some may be missing. Sometimes the first self-test is misleading which is why we're doing it again.

Based on the numbers, troubleshoot your wiring and sensors.

If all you get are 1xx codes, and your fan controller worked in the first tests, then you are good to go! You can proceed to the next phase -- installation!

Press DEFROST to clear the codes, disconnect the power, and unhook all your temporary connections. If you had problems, get them fixed and try again!
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Old 04-11-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz View Post
Bad key pad or cable inside. Take it out, open it up and see if something looks "off".

This can occur due to mechanical damage, like something hitting the faceplate buttons hard, or something getting spilled or splashed into it.

If you clean your dash, NEVER spray cleaner onto the faceplate of any device in the dash. Spray the cloth so it's just damp and wipe.

You're not going to have much choice here -- probably you're going to need a new EATC unit.
wooo hoo! I was right, but too slow!
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  #5  
Old 04-11-2008
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I will take it out this weekend but hasn't been hit and I haven't cleaned in a loooong time. I was afraid the answer was gonna be that. And thats the funny thing I could never get the self test to work.
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Old 04-11-2008
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Funny I was able to run a self test this time. Huh. Anyway I ran it twice and got no codes. All images on the display lit up both times. Do you think it's possible that the automatic switch just needs cleaned. But then why would the fan image light up? I will still yank it this weekend and do an inspection. Hope I don't have to buy another control box. Also does anyone have some of that white hose and connectors I could buy. I didn't have enough to run it all the way down for it to suck air so it is just wired up with no airflow passing through the sensor. By the way John thanks for the write-up on the install I never would have been able to do this without your knowledge.
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Old 04-15-2008
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WOOHOO. I took the Eatc head unit apart tonight and the orange wire going from keypad to box was pulling out of the connector and based on vibration was making erratic connection. IT WORKS again.
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Old 04-15-2008
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good call n3elz!!
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  #9  
Old 04-15-2008
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Not sure if I called it, lol -- I was thinking inside the EATC itself. But thanks.

Really, it just comes down to the old, "sigh and take it apart again" technique. Sometimes you just have to tear it apart and see what's there.

Good job and I'm glad you found it!
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  #10  
Old 04-15-2008
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Thanks and me too. I really wasn't looking forward to buying another one and living without ac here in AZ till I did.
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  #11  
Old 04-15-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz View Post
Really, it just comes down to the old, "sigh and take it apart again" technique. Sometimes you just have to tear it apart and see what's there.
I love that technique
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