Hi,

First of all, really great forum with plenty of information :).

I'm a new owner of a Ford Ranger 2010 V6 4.0L SOHC 4x4 Sport.

Never owned a ford ranger before.

We are currently experiencing a wave of extreme cold days in Canada (-35C/-32F) and my truck doesn't give a lot of heat. :(

I've noticed that the mechanical fan always run because the viscosity is so high (cold). Did the spin test (with engine off of course) and it spin with little bit of resistance but not that much. I would say clutch is okay.

Truck is almost new (35000km or 22k miles).

I don't think its the thermostat since radiator and hose are cold.

Put some cardboard in front of the radiator it helped but still the mechanical fan is able to blow cold air over the engine bay.

I've run a long distance tonight and i was never able to get to 90C/194F.

Maximum is 80C/176F while engine is revving (highway) and as soon as a let of the throttle (idle) I see the numbers/needle going down fast to stay around 68-70C/154F-158F.

Would switching to E-Fan help getting more heat inside?

I know stock configuration is the best but for cold winter i don't think is optimal engine temp!!


thank you very much!!!

regards,
laurent

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Second thought:

When I start the truck I can let it idle for 30 mins temp never really raise until i decided to block the radiator air flow.

This mechanical fan is a b*tch in cold temp. Lot of CFMs but its not desired in cold weather.
Is the ranger built for texas temperature or what ? :)

Never had a car with this type of fan.

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Btw, the truck is ok with temperature warmer -10C/14F, Engine temp goes to 90C/194F without any problems and plenty of heat for my feet and windows !

 

Honestly it sounds like you need a thermostat.
if the stat is opening too soon the rad and hoses will be cold.

 

Thermostat.

That's not extreme cold lol. Here it's been around -54 and my truck blows wonderful heat.

Last winter i had no heat. It was the thermostat. Replaced and all was well again.

 

It's possible on this low mileage and 3 years old truck that a thermostat goes bad?

I have heat but i see the engine never reach optimal temperature.

People says that it's normal any cars have trouble at this cold keeping 90C/194F.

btw, i'm not talking about windchill (car don't feel it damn it :P ) ... -54C seems unbelievable in Canada.

 

-54 f. -47 c.

You obviously never been to rural Manitoba if you don't think those temps are possible in Canada lol.

Put a piece of cardboard in front of the Grille and see if that helps.

But yes, a thermostat can go bad no matter age or mileage.

 

He already did the cardboard trick. I'd look into thermostat replacement and see if that helps. Your truck is similar to mine but much newer and apparently has an e-fan too. My truck has seemed to heat up pretty well in the winter.

Oh, are you plugging in at night?

Our lowest recorded temp up here is -80. I've only experienced about -60 but personally I feel anything below -35 is pretty much a similar feeling coldness. (all fahrenheit)

 

Missed the cardboard comment in the OP. my bad. Rangers shouldn't have any issues in the cold. Mine doesn't, friends that own then don't. Etc.

So the thermostat. It's easy, cheap, and will most likely solve your issues.

 

I'm afraid to plug it.... many car fires start from the block heater.

I don't have a e-fan...but i was thinking this could help installing one maybe.

Also i keep hearing that people switch to a higher temp thermostat.

Do you have any example (part #) i can only find the motorcraft stock 88C/190F ones (RT1167)

happy new year again :-) !

regards,
laurent

 

Oh, sorry I kind of skim. Didn't realize you were thinking about e-fan. I've never heard of car fires from block heaters and I lived somewhere that every parking lot had all cars plugged in. I dunno, it seems like a really low risk thing but for all I know, you park in a garage.

 

Nope no garage, just outside lol.

I fact I think heated garage is the worst option... snow, ice and salt melt to form a corrosive cycle each day you arrive and park it to the garage.

edit:

about that block heater, are you using it because it's very difficult to start the engine or to make it warmer faster?
Are you running 40/60 coolant?
Because I think every car manufacturer fill with 50/50 coolant which freeze at -38C/-36F.

 

I plug in below -10 degrees because A) its helpful for the engine B)my cab warms up much quicker C) if its below -30(f) my battery is too cold to start engine. Yah, I have the correct coolent, I mean I have mine set to be good to something like -55 or further..

 

I plug mine in to warm it yup faster in cab.

I never have problems staring it if it's unplugged even if it's -40 no windchill.

I also have never heard of a block heater causing fires

 

I know this will not fix the heat problem but if you tell me heat get faster I'll plug it.

Do you know how much watt or amp it draws (stock block heater)? For extension cord sizing.

Since I've never used a block heater, i guess that you have to leave it plugged for few hours before starting the truck.

Do you get instant heat on engine starting or it just help a little bit (engine kept at -20 instead of -40)

 

I do not know the draw but it is very low. They sell cold weather extension cords that maintain some flexibility in intense cold. I leave mine plugged in when its not running - costs nearly nothing and you really dont wanna wake up 2 hours before work to plug in truck haha. Did I mention mine has a block heater and a battery heater? You can see if your battery has a heater pretty easily - it should, either around it or a mat below it.

Not instant heat but basically instead of your truck pumping instant cold air into the vehicle, you get luke warm air that blows in and the engine quickly heats up the cab (compared to 15 min of driving to get hot.

And just FYI, for anyone wondering, wind chill only affects living things.

 

could be thermostat or heater control valve mine seized closed and would only let the coolant trickle into the heater core. Obviously Georgia never gets that cold but its a place to look and the efan will help you can adjust it not to come on till higher temps in the winter mine almost never runs in the winter here and my heat will run you out of the little cab. Also even if the clutch is good the fan will run a little bit all the time regardless so it may be a smart idea to go efan. It will help with throttle response to. So you get performance and practicality gains.

 

Regarding the e-fan, i've read a lot on this subject.

Just to be sure, the taurus fan is my best bet with a 4.0l sohc?

I can't find a direct bolt on solution on google.

Fact is with the taurus fan i don't want a used one in my kinda new truck.

It seems that they are discontinued, cannot buy new OEM ones.

Any advices?

Thank you very much!
laurent

 

Well, why not just buy a replacement taurus fan? It'd be brand new.

Ford Taurus Cooling Fans - JCWhitney

*edit* I see you said you wanted OEM. I dunno man, you're starting to be a lil picky. Older parts aren't necessarily worse. My brakes on my truck are from a 96 mustang. That's a lot older and they are a nice upgrade.

 

Thanks mate!

Any clearance issue with the Taurus Fan and SOHC Engine?

I've saw plenty of 4.0L OHV engines and 4 bangers but never saw someone done it on the SOHC version.

 

Today almost no heat and the truck operating range was 149-160F. (outside temp -38F)

Checked again then found out this hose was warm.

Mean the thermostat is bad right (leaking)?

 

I bout one new from ebay TYC brand and its a factory alternate brand and have had zero issues out of it just make sure you use a quality controller and wire and you'll be fine.

 

start with your thermostat, a e-fan will improve engine heat but only under 50kmh. after that you need a grill cover.

 

Thanks 06RangerXLT,

1. fix the thermostat
2. Choose between:
-Flex-a-lite 188 Black Magic
OR
-Taurus e-Fan (require alternator upgrade)
3. Grill cover for harsh winter like this one
4. Cover up my trans. cooler (why they didn't think to put a oil thermostat?!?! Ford common!)

First I need to make it to spring before doing major work like this

 

I read somewhere the trans has a valve that will not allow the oil to cycle to the trans cooler until it reaches a certain temp but i may be wrong. I have the taurus efan and did the alternator upgrade because i have other things drawing power but with just the fan the stock 95 amps did ok.

 

I'll check with a clamp dc ammeter with normal accessories. I might need upgrade since i have fog lights / TCS system / abs / towing trailer lights.

The important is the idle max amp. If i'm stuck at the traffic and the e-fan drain my battery because i'm at idle... well i'll test that with the meter.

 

Yeah you may have to check being a 2010 the factory alternator was PCM controlled to vary the voltage as needed or so I've read on here. And the bolt pattern is different so idk if they make one to swap i wonder what max output for your stock unit is?