As various people have told me, the fan some engage and blow fairly hard upon startup, then slow off after about 30 seconds.

I just cleaned out my IAC and TB, started it up, fan was what i'd say was, disengaged, obviously still spinning.

Then after about 10-20 seconds, it starts up hard, i can hear the air rushing - the engine is maybe 1200 RPM. The fan was still going by the time it finally started moving the temp gauge.


This seems counter to logic and what i've been told - i noticed last few times i drove it (now that it's not stinking hot outside) that it seemed to take far longer to get the temp gauge moving that i would expect.


Any thoughts/testing/etc?

 

This is my first time having to do anything with a clutched fan.
From what i would guess, this is not what a cold engine/radiator fan should spin like?

I will note i'm trying to "flick" or push this fan as fast as i can.

 

From Alldata

Fan Clutch Test
Spin the fan blade by hand. A light resistance should be felt. If there is no resistance or very high resistance, the minimum and maximum fan speeds must be checked as follows:
Fan Clutch Test-Minimum Speed Requirement
Use a suitable marker to mark the water pump pulley, one of the fan blade retaining bolts and the crankshaft pulley.
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
Install a throttle adjusting tool.
Connect a digital photoelectric tachometer.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.
Start the engine and run it at approximately 1,500 rpm until the normal operating temperature has been achieved.
Adjust the engine speed to 2,300 rpm.
Operate the digital photoelectric tachometer at 3,000 rpm and aim it at the water pump pulley. Adjust the engine speed until the light flash and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the digital photoelectric tachometer at the fan blade bolts. Adjust the strobe light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
The fan blade speed must not be greater than 1,500 rpm at 3,000 water pump rpm.
Turn the engine off.
If the fan blade speed was greater than 1,500 rpm, install a new fan clutch.
Fan Clutch Test-Maximum Speed Requirement
Carry out Steps 1 through 5 of the Fan Clutch Test-Minimum Speed Requirement.
NOTE: The temperature should be above 96°C (205°F) for maximum fan speed.
Block off areas on each side of the radiator in the engine compartment and the front of the radiator grille. This will raise the temperature of the air striking the fan clutch and should cause the fan blade to operate at maximum speed.
Place the climate control function selector switch in the MAX A/C position and the blower motor switch in the HI position.
Adjust the strobe to 3,000 rpm.
WARNING: To avoid the possibility of personal injury or damage to the vehicle, do not operate the engine until the fan blade has been first examined for possible cracks and separation.
Start the engine and adjust the engine speed until the digital photoelectric tachometer light and the water pump pulley mark are synchronized.
Aim the digital photoelectric tachometer light at the fan blade retaining bolts. Adjust the digital photoelectric tachometer light until the light flash is synchronized with the marked fan blade bolt (the fan blade appears to stand still).
If the fan blade speed is less than 2,300 rpm, install a new fan clutch.

 

Thanks, EAOutlaw, though it does seem i'm screwed without having a photoelectric tach to do the testing.

I wonder if anyone else can see what their cold engined fan spins like, per my video above?

I just got back from a drive and popped the bonnet to check the blades again, it spins just like it does in that video i posted where the engine was cold.

 

With Fan clutches I replace them based on play in the bearings or by the years of service they have endured and physical signs of leakage.

This article may help you decide if you should just replace the clutch and move on with your life or dig in deeper with testing.

As mentioned with the Alldata test using a tach is the most accurate way to determine if the clutch needs to be replaced if the clutch has no play in the bearing or signs of leaks.

Personally after watching many dyno runs with different types of fans I will replace any fan clutch in the future with a secondary electric fan.

 

Original clutch fan or recently changed? In your video it looks normal. I recently had to get a new clutch and fan blade. The super cooling one. Pretty loud sometimes.

 

Erm, as far as i know, it's the original 15 year old factory fan.

It doesn't help that i've no idea what the feel of a disengaged fan should feel like, if that looks normal, then we're good :) (assuming it's obvious that i'm trying hard to flick/spin that fan and keep my hand out the way for the video, ie. there is no movement/spin after i let go.)

 

Speaking of which; is there a good/easy/comprehensive upgrade i can make to an electric fan?

I ask as i'm not a huge fan of cobbling together any old match - there must have been many many conversions, someone should have found the neatest/most efficient way of doing this?

 

Alright, definitely junking the clutch and going EFan.

However, whilst some of the options are easy to choose:

1) 2 speed fan
2) Relays for each speed
3) AC compressor tie in on low speed
4) Water temp sensor for high speed


Some things are still up in the air, and i'd love for input from people on the following.

1) Upper or lower hose for the sensor (needs variable sensor & setting (or reason) for either hose)
2) Try and find a junk yard fan, old Taurus seems popular, but huge amp draws
3) Use a 2001 or newer Ranger (4cyl) fan? Dorman sells it new for ~$120 (don't know amps or if 2 speed)

 

Have you considered the dccontrols pulse width controllers? The buy in is a little steep bu they're an elegant all in one solution. Constant fan speed adjustment to maintain an exact coolant temperature, integrated relays, integrated a/c input, etc. You can mount the entire thing on the fan shroud.

That plus a contour dual fan should be pretty much spot on for a Ranger. It's been on my to-do list for a while.

 

I have not, is the short answer, i've searched some on this subject, but there isn't really much that shows up so far as solid 'all in one' solutions.

I had a quick look just now, it does look fancy, maybe a little too fancy, the constant fan speed adjustment is over kill in my opinion - their relay based stuff is all that's required, along with correctly setting the sensor switch temps.

I think the subject of temperature moderation gets over thought with these sometimes - the stock fan isn't clever or accurate, just having a stable temp on the EFan will be more accurate and it only needs to kick in when it hits a threshold.

Anyway, we can talk about that all day :) but i think they might be a good option for the relay portion of this "build"

Having thoughts and conversations on the location of the sensor, seems top hose is the only sensible place to put it unless i drill and tap the radiator - which i'm not too confident in doing.

 

One of your options is tapping a sensor into the intake manifold and using a BMW dual temp switch with a Volvo relay.

 

I've seen reference to intake manifold before, where though?

I think the rad tap is the best place, but the top hose would be easier (assuming a suitable adapter can be found.

To save two relays, the the DCControls looks nice to use, gives you the variable temp setup too, question there though, does the basic relay tie in the AC stuff? and do you even care?

 

One thing I will caution you on is trying to judge warm up time based on the dash's temp gauge. Use your scan tool and monitor actual coolant temp to determine if you have an issue.

 

Of course that's the more accurate way, probably useful to see where the dash gauge falls whilst it's warming, it might not be accurate, but it will be consistent.

 

not necessarily. The gauge will have huge ranges for each spot it moves to. Not to mention cooler temps are likely causing longer warm up times. Also if you've recently flushed any coolant you could have changed the thermal properties of the coolant and its ability to draw heat. Lastly you fixed a leak. This will no doubt cause a change to the way the cooling system worked over all, as the system is based off pressure and boil point. Unless the truck is taking an exceeding long time to warm up I think you're likely over thinking the whole thing.

 

I don't know how the gauge works, i'd assumed linearly - i still have to look at coolant temp when i next drive it.

I noticed this issue before we got the temps we have now - the fan used to behave differently to the way it does now, and whilst i have done the coolant since i got the truck, it was way before this started. Leak was a weep from the heater hoses.


It's not taking a massively long time, but it's at least double the time from my other vehicles.
EFan should fix the issue, besides, it'll be a fun project :)

 

if you feel the fan is the cause of delayed warm up time, then remove the fan and test it. Pretty easy. The fan would have to be moving an enormous amount of air to extend warm up times.

That said, because the gauge isn't directly coupled to the coolant temp sensor it can't be linear. It likely has several preset positions based on range of temperatures. If it was linear it would fluctuate as the temp does. Watch the ect on a scan gauge, the coolant likely fluctuates as much as ten degrees. But your needle never moves.

Have you investigated whether the tstat is functioning properly? If it's stuck open, or weak it could be extending eaten up times.

Lastly comparing what the gauge on one car says vice another is not a good way to determine if ones cooling system is working correctly.

 

Ugh, don't fancy that, need to rent the tools, if i'm going that far, i'll do the efan conversion.

Thinking about that, i know it to be true, i doubt the cooling system is that accurate, the chance of the gauge showing perfect all the time is unrealistic.


Yes/no.... I wondered about this a little while back, and i can't remember why i stopped chasing it, even priced up a new stat and gasket.

Thinking about it, i should probably use the opportunity with the top pipe off, to just go ahead and fit a new one when i put the temp sensor in the pipe.

You can't be *that* specific, true, but most systems all run at the same temperature and most vehicles take around the same time to warm up, given similar conditions, i'm sure you know yourself that you get a feel for this after long enough.


Based on the trucks full service history, but then standing for a year and not having service items done when they needed it, i wouldn't be surprised if the TStat was past it best, along with the fan clutch. Honestly, short of replacing the rear diff oil, it's all that's left for the "unknown history" service items.
Thanks for making me think though, it's very easy to just throw stuff at a problem, or even a feeling, just because you can.

 

many rigs don't run at the same temp. My lightning runs at 192. My diesel 198, my Tahoe 210, and my bmw 220.
Think they all warm up the same?
not to mention cooling system capacity greatly effects warm up time. My lightning and diesel run close in coolant temp but the diesel takes a solid 15 minutes longer to warm up. As it's bringing 8 gallons of coolant up to temp

Fwiw, the fan can be removed without special tools.

 

220 sounds high? I didn't know that.

However the other temps are all in a small band, F makes it sound more Vs C.

Diesels take ages to warm up, doesn't matter that there is a crap ton of coolant - obviously it affects it But generally, diesels are really slow :(

I still don't know where i'm at for guessing the fan caused this issue anyway as the stat is closed until (usually) the needle just starts to move (i've noticed most engines are calibrated this way) so it should get to needle move point earlier in my opinion, it used to at least.

I believe that the tools to remove the fan are mainly needed when the bolts/nuts are seized/too tight? otherwise i haven't looked into it any further.

 

A fan clutch tool or 36mm wrench can help, but it can be done without it.
As far as 220, an engine is more efficient in the combustion of fuel at warmer temps. Cool dense air, but a high temp combustion chamber are where power is made.

When people swap out lower temp T-stats to make more power, the power comes from the additional fuel the ecm is demanding because the car isn't up to temp, not due to the engine being cooler.



All I am getting at with my comments is this, don't just throw an E-fan at the truck thinking you're going to solve your issues without some competent, thought out troubleshooting. E-fans can be complicated to get working, expensive to buy the correct parts and not always the most reliable setups. The power draw from them will kill inferior electronics in a hurry and leave you without a fan.

 

You can slide a flat head screwdriver into a slot on the top of the water pump behind the pulley and lock it into place, then use a 36mm wrench on the fan clutch nut. I can't remember if a crescent would fit in there...

Just ordered a DCControls FK75 and a Contour fan. Will post some pictures when I get a chance to do the install. Rumor is that DCC takes some time to build and ship the controllers so it may be a little while.

 

If the truck is taking too long to warm up, check your thermostat with a new one on the stove.
Bring the water up to near boiling and see when they both open.
Should be the same if both are healthy.

The other test, remove the clutch fan (left hand thread) and run the engine and see if that changes the warm up time.
The clutch fan on mine is independent of the pulley.
If it is left hand thread, there is a warning on the rad shroud.

Why bother going to all that work putting in electric fans, the other one works fine.

 

For what it's worth, here are my reasons that led to the electric fan...
Repeated issues with the stock fan clutch. I replaced the one originally on my '99 because it was locking up frequently rather than just the typical few seconds at cold start. The replacement behavior is absolutely identical. Turns out that nearly all of the replacement units for the 3.0 are labelled as 'severe duty' and don't function well for daily use at all. This has been a common question/complaint once I started digging around the various Ranger forums.

I'm looking at doing a V8 swap in the Spring from an Explorer. The Contour fan is very shallow and creates a little bit of extra space. Convenient when that's at a premium even with the Explorer's FEAD setup.