I was wondering if it would be ok to wire up two KC HiLites to the existing fog light wiring. I would rather just use the switch (fog lights) already in my bezel for the KC HiLites. I would be getting rid of the fog lights so it won't all be ran through those wires. Just one KC light on each side to replace the fog lights. I would guess that it would be ok, but I want your opinions. Thanks

The KC HiLites are the 100W if that matters.

 

I would not run a 100watt bulb with the factory wiring. You could run a relay off of the factory wiring so you can still use the factory switch.

 

 

It won't work. The stock 15 amp fuse is sized to protect the long run of single 18 gauge wire that splits into 2 near the front of the truck. The factory circuit will easily support the stock 45W fogs with plenty of reserve:

90W/12v = ~8 amps

The 2 100W KC's are a different story. Current draw is too much for the factory fuse and wiring.

200W/12v = ~17 amps

I would do what Chad suggested - use the factory tan/orange fog wire to trigger a new relay controlling a new fused circuit with adequate current capacity.

 

If you have an original KC harness like the one in this diagram, you should be able to add it to your factory wiring. You wouldn't need the KC switch or the brown or white wires in the picture.

I would just connect the factory Ranger tan/orange to the green wire of the KC harness and wire the rest as shown.

 

The wiring supplied isn't a relay. Here is the wiring it came with Here I'll think it over on how I'm going to wire them up. I'm not good at wiring stuff. I might just use all the wiring stuff that it came with and run it seperately. If anybody has pictures of where they ran their wires through the firewall and where their switch is located in the cab that would be appreciated. Thanks

 

This circuit diagram might help. I ran my wiring thru a hole just to the left of the clutch pedal bracket. Its covered by a plastic plug. I pulled the plug and put a rubber grommet to protect the wires and ran them thru it to the engine compartment. The reason to use the relay is so you're not running a power feed into the cab to the switch and then back out to the lights. Low current controls the relay from the switch. This allows you to take power from say the cig lighter and not blow its fuse as the relay will only draw .15 amps thru its control circuit to switch the high current to the lights from the battery or battery junction box feed line.

 

I did some poking aorund and found a place I can get the wires through the firewall. I think I read somewhere that I can use the Battery Junction Box as a power source instead of going directly to the battery. I looked at mine and saw two terminals on the front of the box. Are those the ones I can use to power my lights? Will the terminal provide enough current/power for my lights? Here I think this is a picture of them, I had this picture saved from a while ago for some reason.

 

Yes thats the Battery Junction Box feed from the battery and thats where I connected the power feed that runs to the relay mounted on the radiator support for my KC lights. Just make sure you put a inline fuse within a few inches of the connector.

 

I'm just curious about those Battery Junction Box terminals. What is their load capacity or is there one? Are they directly connected to the battery? I understand there is enough power for my two lights, but I'm just curious. Thanks

 

The power for everything on the truck except the starter passes through there. There is a heavy cable directly from the battery positive terminal.

 

Thanks a bunch Bob! I can always count on you