Front tires cupping rapidly
#1
Front tires cupping rapidly
I took my 2005 Ranger Edge 3.0 2 WD to the Ford dealer 2 months ago to have front end aligned and tires rotated, front tires were staring to cup on inside. Truck ran fine, no noise, normal daily driver. Then at 2200 miles since 1st alignment, 2 front tires starting cupping again. Took it back, dealer says that this is common for off road tires. My truck has all season Firestone Destination LE 235R70 16. Is this true or are they blowing smoke where the sun don't shine????
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I've always had the front end aligned once a year regardless (for normal driving; my Jeep Wrangler was another story!). I check air pressure probably every other week and keep them running around 30-32psi. Just strikes me odd that a normal tire for a Ranger would wear that fast while the dealer tells me the front end is solid and in specs! The roads in Central Florida are in pretty good shape compared to those in Buffalo (from where I came).
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I fought with inner edge wear and cupping until about this time last year when a tech at an independent shop casually mentioned, "there is a camber kit for your truck that will cure that."
I had them order and install it and it is the single best tweak I've done to the truck. It improved the overall handing and "drive ability," and my tires wear evenly across the rolling surface.
FWIW
I had them order and install it and it is the single best tweak I've done to the truck. It improved the overall handing and "drive ability," and my tires wear evenly across the rolling surface.
FWIW
#15
I threw out the boxes and contributed the old pins (removed from the top of the control arm) to a scrap project, but maybe I can find it on the invoices -- if I can find them.
The problem there is that for the last 11 months we have been in tornado recovery mode where I live and the invoices may have become lost in a crap-pile of paper that I've just not gotten around to.
You might just try a Google for "xxxx Ranger camber kit" (x = your model year) and see what turns up.
What the heck? I did a search for 2003 Ranger Edge camber kit and got a bunch of hits. Here's a link at Reilly's that includes a kit for 4x4 Rangers.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...003&vi=1438309
Also, when I said "independent shop" I meant "not a Ford dealer." I had the installation done locally at a Big 10 Tire Store.
The problem there is that for the last 11 months we have been in tornado recovery mode where I live and the invoices may have become lost in a crap-pile of paper that I've just not gotten around to.
You might just try a Google for "xxxx Ranger camber kit" (x = your model year) and see what turns up.
What the heck? I did a search for 2003 Ranger Edge camber kit and got a bunch of hits. Here's a link at Reilly's that includes a kit for 4x4 Rangers.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...003&vi=1438309
Also, when I said "independent shop" I meant "not a Ford dealer." I had the installation done locally at a Big 10 Tire Store.
Last edited by basketcase; 02-18-2012 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Added some stuff...
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Stand in front of the truck at the "corner" and push down with a hard "pump and ****** hands off" motion on the bumper.
If the vehicle simply responds to the pressure and then "slow motion" resettles the shocks are probably okay.
However, if the vehicle bounces two or three times or immediately snaps back up with a few mini-wriggles, the shocks are shot.
The same technique can give you a read on all four corners/shocks.
If the vehicle simply responds to the pressure and then "slow motion" resettles the shocks are probably okay.
However, if the vehicle bounces two or three times or immediately snaps back up with a few mini-wriggles, the shocks are shot.
The same technique can give you a read on all four corners/shocks.
#23
Check the front end parts.
My Ranger tore the fronts up a bit in less than 1000 miles. Good thing I caught it in time. It's since been resolved.
If you can, do the front end work yourself. It cost me a bit over 600 bucks to get it fixed and aligned at a shop. It needed not only the drag link and all related steering parts, but also needed front u-joints. Obviously that really added some money onto the bill.
Still worth the money though, as the 31" BFG's are quite expensive.
My Ranger tore the fronts up a bit in less than 1000 miles. Good thing I caught it in time. It's since been resolved.
If you can, do the front end work yourself. It cost me a bit over 600 bucks to get it fixed and aligned at a shop. It needed not only the drag link and all related steering parts, but also needed front u-joints. Obviously that really added some money onto the bill.
Still worth the money though, as the 31" BFG's are quite expensive.
#24
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Stand in front of the truck at the "corner" and push down with a hard "pump and ****** hands off" motion on the bumper.
If the vehicle simply responds to the pressure and then "slow motion" resettles the shocks are probably okay.
However, if the vehicle bounces two or three times or immediately snaps back up with a few mini-wriggles, the shocks are shot.
The same technique can give you a read on all four corners/shocks.
If the vehicle simply responds to the pressure and then "slow motion" resettles the shocks are probably okay.
However, if the vehicle bounces two or three times or immediately snaps back up with a few mini-wriggles, the shocks are shot.
The same technique can give you a read on all four corners/shocks.
Anybody have any other suggestions?
#25
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Check the front end parts.
My Ranger tore the fronts up a bit in less than 1000 miles. Good thing I caught it in time. It's since been resolved.
If you can, do the front end work yourself. It cost me a bit over 600 bucks to get it fixed and aligned at a shop. It needed not only the drag link and all related steering parts, but also needed front u-joints. Obviously that really added some money onto the bill.
Still worth the money though, as the 31" BFG's are quite expensive.
My Ranger tore the fronts up a bit in less than 1000 miles. Good thing I caught it in time. It's since been resolved.
If you can, do the front end work yourself. It cost me a bit over 600 bucks to get it fixed and aligned at a shop. It needed not only the drag link and all related steering parts, but also needed front u-joints. Obviously that really added some money onto the bill.
Still worth the money though, as the 31" BFG's are quite expensive.
Thanks for the ideas, mates!