Gage lighting problems!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3402/...a3170d.jpg?v=0
Above is a little diagram i drew up of my dimmer setup. For some reason the black box gets extremely hot and causes the gage lights to flicker on and off...very obnoxious...my theory is that there may be too much draw? please look it over and tell me what you guys think...i installed these gages: http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sel.../1/RIG-662.jpg I got them on ebay...here is a direct link CLICK HERE Thanks in advanced. |
i realize the diagram kinda sux...my other thought was get rid of the black box (i think its the power inverter) and go directly into the dimmer switch (dimmer 1).
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well i know electricity pretty well but im kinda lost on this, are you running two dimmer switches???
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yea...the one that was already in the truck and then the one that came with the gages...it's wired into that black box which i believe is a power inverter.
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if it was me personally, i would have jus ran one dimmer, but it looks as if the aftermarket dimmer is a direct wire in to that black box. I would like to know what power it inverts. higher to lower watts? or Lower to higher watts?
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yea that i do not know...if i knew it i could prolly figure out what to do...i think tmrw i am going to try connecting it to a constant source...i really dnt know wat to do lol. this will take a lot of thinking.
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Hmmm...what would be the best way to wire this so that when i turn my headlights on, the gage lights go on. (minus tapping into the stock dimmer switch, that's what i already did)
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Tap it into your dash lights wire. That's what I did when I ran these, eliminated the need for that dinky paper thin switch they give you.
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Originally Posted by TrePaul86
(Post 1218874)
Tap it into your dash lights wire. That's what I did when I ran these, eliminated the need for that dinky paper thin switch they give you.
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the setup i have looks like this...cept the black box is smaller and seems waterproof:
http://www.bluetechautohaus.com/imag...o_relay_02.jpg |
cmon guys...i know someone has to have some experience with this.
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i'd go with what trevor said.. so you can control the gauges with your dimmer switch. try it and see if it helps.
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Originally Posted by MOTOunplugged
(Post 1218939)
i'd go with what trevor said.. so you can control the gauges with your dimmer switch. try it and see if it helps.
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No no... You need that black box.
That's what I'm assuming is what changes your truck voltage to whatever is rated for for those gauges. What I think you need to do is find the wire that is how when you turn that nob to on when you turn the gauges on. Then cut that wire from that knob switch and tap that into the factory harness for the on off control of the lights. Find the other wire that controls dimmer via test light and do the same on the dimmer switch and tap them together. Red is constant power and black is ground... Hope that makes sense... Those 3 wires on that knob are power, dimmer, and on/off. I'm almost sure. |
Originally Posted by TrePaul86
(Post 1218964)
No no... You need that black box.
That's what I'm assuming is what changes your truck voltage to whatever is rated for for those gauges. What I think you need to do is find the wire that is how when you turn that nob to on when you turn the gauges on. Then cut that wire from that knob switch and tap that into the factory harness for the on off control of the lights. Find the other wire that controls dimmer via test light and do the same on the dimmer switch and tap them together. Red is constant power and black is ground... Hope that makes sense... Those 3 wires on that knob are power, dimmer, and on/off. I'm almost sure. |
Well then there's your answer! One of the wires on that switch is a power in from that box and the other is a dimmer back to the box going to the gauges.
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ok...and then the other pos. neg. wires go to the light switch itself correct?
gah...going to bed..i'll check up on this tmrw morn b4 work...thanks in advanced trevor. |
You can't just go chopping things off and hooking them up to whatever you want. You don't even know what this "black box" is but somehow you think you can just take it out and you'll be fine? Its not an inverter, that much I can assure you. You can't just bypass it and hook things up to other devices. Well, actually you can if you don't mind it going up in smoke.
It gets hot because resistance creates heat. If you're saying it gets really hot and the lights start acting funny, get rid of the system and buy one that isn't a piece of junk. Randomly cutting wires and splicing them into other random circuits will just melt the rest of it. |
Originally Posted by FireRanger
(Post 1219149)
You can't just go chopping things off and hooking them up to whatever you want. You don't even know what this "black box" is but somehow you think you can just take it out and you'll be fine? Its not an inverter, that much I can assure you. You can't just bypass it and hook things up to other devices. Well, actually you can if you don't mind it going up in smoke.
It gets hot because resistance creates heat. If you're saying it gets really hot and the lights start acting funny, get rid of the system and buy one that isn't a piece of junk. Randomly cutting wires and splicing them into other random circuits will just melt the rest of it. I will find out today once i check it out (i have all of the tools i need, so no need to lecture me on test lights, ohmmeters, etc...). Also as far as buying one "that isn't a piece of junk" I don't have that kind of money, so unless you wanna buy it for me I am going to stick with this one. Thanks for the concern though. |
Ah, pretty sure you don't know what you're talking about. You can't just make up names for electronic devices that sound cool and throw in some smart sounding words here and there. Your logic and theory proves this as it makes no sense and is electrically incorrect. I'm not breaking you balls. You are just talking about things you don't understand.
So if you have this thing hooked up in a way that is contrary to the instructions it came with, I suggest you undo it and put it back the way it is supposed to be before it burns out. You should not be hooking this thing up some other way when you do not have the electrical skills and understanding to know what you're getting yourself into. Otherwise you are going to have to buy a new one anyway because its going to burn up. |
i got some of those sitting in the truck
some one needs to take them off my hands |
Originally Posted by FireRanger
(Post 1219334)
Ah, pretty sure you don't know what you're talking about. You can't just make up names for electronic devices that sound cool and throw in some smart sounding words here and there. Your logic and theory proves this as it makes no sense and is electrically incorrect. I'm not breaking you balls. You are just talking about things you don't understand.
So if you have this thing hooked up in a way that is contrary to the instructions it came with, I suggest you undo it and put it back the way it is supposed to be before it burns out. You should not be hooking this thing up some other way when you do not have the electrical skills and understanding to know what you're getting yourself into. Otherwise you are going to have to buy a new one anyway because its going to burn up. |
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Originally Posted by dangerfish
(Post 1219520)
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