Help with wiring Projectors
So, I am at the final stages of wiring up my projectors. I have them in, have the harness hooked up, but I'm having a slight issue. The harness has a hook up for a factory bulb socket, which is hooked up at the drivers side. However, there is no hook up for the passenger side socket, and something has to be in there. They don't work if I take the passenger bulb out, but as soon as I put it back in, they work flawlessly. I have tried wiring the socket to the driver side, and no dice. How can I get around not having to drive with a bulb plugged in behind my grille?
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I don't quite understand what you are doing and what bulb must be plugged in?
What is the model number/kit number of the new lights? Is it the old head light bulb that needs to be plugged in? When you have a situation where "other lights" don't work when 1 bulb is removed, it means that the 1 bulb is being used as the only Ground Path for the "other lights", this is common in trailer wiring issues. So best guess is that you have missed a Ground wire hook up, or Ground is not good. A light bulb is just a wire, it has a resistance but it is just a straight thru coil of wire in a glass bulb, worst case would be to put a resistor in the socket instead of the bulb, or a fuse rated for the current draw of the new lights. But best would be to find the missing Ground hook up. |
Originally Posted by RonD
(Post 2089287)
I don't quite understand what you are doing and what bulb must be plugged in?
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I assume you are, and want to use, the existing light switch in the cab to activate the head lights and high/low beam.
I would assume each ballast would then have to be hooked up to the original bulb socket for that side. So that socket you are putting the old bulb into should be hooked up to the ballast for that side. |
Originally Posted by RonD
(Post 2089294)
I assume you are, and want to use, the existing light switch in the cab to activate the head lights and high/low beam.
I would assume each ballast would then have to be hooked up to the original bulb socket for that side. So that socket you are putting the old bulb into should be hooked up to the ballast for that side. |
You don't need a 9007 hookup on the passenger side.
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They typically only use the one side as it is a switch to turn the ballasts on. It doesn't pull the power from the headlight plug for the ballast power.
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Then you have a monitor or similar circuit in the original head light wiring, it requires both headlamp sockets to pass power to complete the circuit, i.e. head lamp out warning light.
Could be part of Daylight running or head light relay. Odd that Morimoto instructions wouldn't have mentioned that, or have a resistor Kit to mimic old headlight bulbs. In that case you would need to fake a light in that socket. Get a volt/ohm meter Turn on headlight switch Set meter to DC Volts, 20vDC if available Put black meter probe on a good ground Test the light socket connections with Red probe Only one connection in the bulb socket will have 12volts, mark it. Turn off light switch Switch meter to OHMs, 100ohms if available. Put black probe on a good ground test socket connections with red probe You are looking for 0 ohms, that's the Ground in the socket I would use a fuse(5amp) between those two connection. You could use a 3 to 8 ohm resistor but they are expensive. |
Originally Posted by RonD
(Post 2089299)
Then you have a monitor or similar circuit in the original head light wiring, it requires both headlamp sockets to pass power to complete the circuit, i.e. head lamp out warning light.
Could be part of Daylight running or head light relay. Odd that Morimoto instructions wouldn't have mentioned that, or have a resistor Kit to mimic old headlight bulbs. In that case you would need to fake a light in that socket. Get a volt/ohm meter Turn on headlight switch Set meter to DC Volts, 20vDC if available Put black meter probe on a good ground Test the light socket connections with Red probe Only one connection in the bulb socket will have 12volts, mark it. Turn off light switch Switch meter to OHMs, 100ohms if available. Put black probe on a good ground test socket connections with red probe You are looking for 0 ohms, that's the Ground in the socket I would use a fuse(5amp) between those two connection. You could use a 3 to 8 ohm resistor but they are expensive. |
What year truck? Ground switched or load switched?
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Originally Posted by mikerider
(Post 2089372)
What year truck? Ground switched or load switched?
However, I'm not sure ground or load switched... I'm going to say load switched though. |
According to TRS, this here is what i need. The Dual resistors. Sounds like I am to take the low beam connection and wire the + and - to these and then ground them. Does this make sense? Also, what then about high beams? (Not that they work) should they have enough current/draw to work without resistors?
Morimoto HD Load Resistors - Wire Harnesses - Components |
...aaaand weird. Apparently there is an account on my phone different than my computer that I don't recall making at all...
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