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Old 04-05-2015
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Help with wiring Projectors

So, I am at the final stages of wiring up my projectors. I have them in, have the harness hooked up, but I'm having a slight issue. The harness has a hook up for a factory bulb socket, which is hooked up at the drivers side. However, there is no hook up for the passenger side socket, and something has to be in there. They don't work if I take the passenger bulb out, but as soon as I put it back in, they work flawlessly. I have tried wiring the socket to the driver side, and no dice. How can I get around not having to drive with a bulb plugged in behind my grille?
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Old 04-05-2015
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I don't quite understand what you are doing and what bulb must be plugged in?

What is the model number/kit number of the new lights?

Is it the old head light bulb that needs to be plugged in?


When you have a situation where "other lights" don't work when 1 bulb is removed, it means that the 1 bulb is being used as the only Ground Path for the "other lights", this is common in trailer wiring issues.

So best guess is that you have missed a Ground wire hook up, or Ground is not good.

A light bulb is just a wire, it has a resistance but it is just a straight thru coil of wire in a glass bulb, worst case would be to put a resistor in the socket instead of the bulb, or a fuse rated for the current draw of the new lights.
But best would be to find the missing Ground hook up.
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Old 04-05-2015
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
I don't quite understand what you are doing and what bulb must be plugged in?
The factory passenger 9007 headlight bulb needs to be plugged in. Each ballast (Morimoto D2S) has its own ground and they are hooked up to factory ground locations so should be properly grounded. I don't know if it is a resistance issue where it can tell that there is not a complete circuit. I can try and clean up the grounds though as a start. I'm not sure how I would throw the resister in to be honest though. which pins to connect?
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Old 04-05-2015
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I assume you are, and want to use, the existing light switch in the cab to activate the head lights and high/low beam.

I would assume each ballast would then have to be hooked up to the original bulb socket for that side.
So that socket you are putting the old bulb into should be hooked up to the ballast for that side.
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Old 04-05-2015
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
I assume you are, and want to use, the existing light switch in the cab to activate the head lights and high/low beam.

I would assume each ballast would then have to be hooked up to the original bulb socket for that side.
So that socket you are putting the old bulb into should be hooked up to the ballast for that side.
there is no hook up for it. the Morimoto only has one hook up for the socket at the drivers side to get the command for ON/HI/LO. it gets its own power and sends the commands from the ballasts so there is no hook up for the passenger bulb socket
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Old 04-05-2015
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You don't need a 9007 hookup on the passenger side.
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Old 04-05-2015
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They typically only use the one side as it is a switch to turn the ballasts on. It doesn't pull the power from the headlight plug for the ballast power.
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Old 04-05-2015
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Then you have a monitor or similar circuit in the original head light wiring, it requires both headlamp sockets to pass power to complete the circuit, i.e. head lamp out warning light.
Could be part of Daylight running or head light relay.

Odd that Morimoto instructions wouldn't have mentioned that, or have a resistor Kit to mimic old headlight bulbs.
In that case you would need to fake a light in that socket.
Get a volt/ohm meter
Turn on headlight switch
Set meter to DC Volts, 20vDC if available
Put black meter probe on a good ground
Test the light socket connections with Red probe
Only one connection in the bulb socket will have 12volts, mark it.
Turn off light switch
Switch meter to OHMs, 100ohms if available.
Put black probe on a good ground
test socket connections with red probe
You are looking for 0 ohms, that's the Ground in the socket

I would use a fuse(5amp) between those two connection.
You could use a 3 to 8 ohm resistor but they are expensive.
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Old 04-06-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Then you have a monitor or similar circuit in the original head light wiring, it requires both headlamp sockets to pass power to complete the circuit, i.e. head lamp out warning light.
Could be part of Daylight running or head light relay.

Odd that Morimoto instructions wouldn't have mentioned that, or have a resistor Kit to mimic old headlight bulbs.
In that case you would need to fake a light in that socket.
Get a volt/ohm meter
Turn on headlight switch
Set meter to DC Volts, 20vDC if available
Put black meter probe on a good ground
Test the light socket connections with Red probe
Only one connection in the bulb socket will have 12volts, mark it.
Turn off light switch
Switch meter to OHMs, 100ohms if available.
Put black probe on a good ground
test socket connections with red probe
You are looking for 0 ohms, that's the Ground in the socket

I would use a fuse(5amp) between those two connection.
You could use a 3 to 8 ohm resistor but they are expensive.
Alright, I did this. 5A fuse, blew as soon as i turned lights on. same with 7.5A fuse. a 10A fuse however did now, but they still didn't work. So I put the bulb back in and the headlights fired up. However, the factory 9007 bulb did not fire up. It still has to be plugged in to work, however it doesn't light up. I checked all the fuses in the SJB and under the hood and they are all fine so it didn't blow something somewhere else. As far as I can tell right now everything else works. all my lights, radio, windows, power controls. So I'm just going to see how this plays out I guess...
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Old 04-06-2015
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What year truck? Ground switched or load switched?
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Old 04-06-2015
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What year truck? Ground switched or load switched?
Its a 2008 Sport 3.0. And I am in Canada so I have DRLs which I'm assuming is a big part of the problem.

However, I'm not sure ground or load switched... I'm going to say load switched though.
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Old 04-08-2015
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According to TRS, this here is what i need. The Dual resistors. Sounds like I am to take the low beam connection and wire the + and - to these and then ground them. Does this make sense? Also, what then about high beams? (Not that they work) should they have enough current/draw to work without resistors?
Morimoto HD Load Resistors - Wire Harnesses - Components
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Old 04-08-2015
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...aaaand weird. Apparently there is an account on my phone different than my computer that I don't recall making at all...
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