Kill switch how-to?
 

Can anyone post up a how-to for a kill switch? Any drawbacks to having one?

I'm not particulary worried right now but I figure it would be nice to have. If its simple to do, then why not?

I want to do one with a push button, you push the button as you get out of the truck, push it back when you get in...this way it is a little less noticable.

You can always just cut the wire to the positive ignition and wire in a kill switch...right under the colum or something???

do you not have that start disabler thing down there boy the hood release? you just pull it and the truck wont start.

I dunno, I'd rather have an on/off switch. Sometimes you won't remember if you have it pushed off or on.

Have you got a pic of this?

I'm thinking of having something in the cab. I leave my truck, flick the switch, and it won't start. I get up to go to work in the morning, flick it on, and off I go.

Here is what I was talking about:
http://images1.snapfish.com/34744%3C...57467%3Anu0mrj

http://images1.snapfish.com/34744%3C...75577353nu0mrj

Oh wow, thats cool. No, I dont have that.

I just found this...

Is this complete?

ya and what years can u do this, is it near the kick plate in all trucks, mine dosent have that eather Bj and i got same model as urs but u got 1 year newer.

any year there should be 2 wires going to the roll over switch all you need to do is cut one of them thats an old post of mine and extend it to where you want use a GOOD METAL NICE switch, not a crappy auto zone plastic BS...

and the roll over switch is near the pasinger side kick thingy?

thanx zach

Turn the key and push your truck and pop the clutch it will start. (if you have a stick anyway)


It works a lil better on an auto untill, the wires come uncrimped and your stuck wondering why your new truck wont start. Because some newbie ford tech used the yellow butt conector instead of the red conectors. Ive had that crap on two of the vehicles I bought from the local stealership. They charged me for it on the ranger, give me the paperwork and all for it. But they never installed it, and woulndt give me my money back. I got it back driving thru thier car wash every week for a year, untill they put a key code on it.

/endrant

I had something similar on my 94. I just bought the truck off the lot, but the dealer told me it was a factory item. For whatever reasons, some trucks had them some didn't. If the "key" was unplugged, you could not start that thing no matter what. I had PLENTY of people (shady friends, mechanics, repo guys, etc) try to hot wire, etc the truck. Nobody got it started in 20 minutes, then they just gave up.

When I bought my 03, I asked about having it installed, but nobody knew what I was talking about. Then they gave me the speech aboout the PAS key being already installed.....blah, blah, blah.

hmm that actually looks like a nifty idea. ill hafta look into that.

any reason why you should use a "good metal switch"?

because of amperage. or just go and get a 30amp relay and you can use any switch that you wish.

If you are going to use the fuel shutoff, do not just cut it out, totally disabling it. That switch is really important. Add the new switch in series so that the inertia switch can still function.

you can engage/disengage the inertia switch

just use your key and pop the plunger up thru the provide slot

then just push it back down when your ready to go

no mod needed

FYI the 4.0 doesnt run long after with no fuel pump, but a 2.3 will idle for 5 minutes
btw the fuel reset light will come on on the dash unless you mod that

my inertia switch still works if the metal kill switch is turned to ON-"run" i used the "ground" wire for the switch, if you turn it to OFF-"dont run" it wont work but then agian the truck CAN NOT run at all so its not like it will ever be moving, being the fuel pump will not work at all..so i dont see what your worried about...

BS... my lovely 2.3L with the fuel pump turned off will only run for about 3-7 secounds thats it...

Kill the fuel, not the battery
 

This is exactly what I did when the inertia switch connection melted. It was either $50 for a new switch from the dealer or $5 for a toggle switch. Ran it to a hidden spot and BAM! Instant kill switch. Plus if you run a disconnect to the battery, wouldn't you lose all the preset info on your stereo every time you flipped the switch?

Also, I've been here for about two days so sometimes I forget to see the age of a post. I'm an idjit.

LOL, I do it all the time