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  #1  
Old 06-25-2006
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Kill switch how-to?

Can anyone post up a how-to for a kill switch? Any drawbacks to having one?

I'm not particulary worried right now but I figure it would be nice to have. If its simple to do, then why not?
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Old 06-25-2006
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I want to do one with a push button, you push the button as you get out of the truck, push it back when you get in...this way it is a little less noticable.

You can always just cut the wire to the positive ignition and wire in a kill switch...right under the colum or something???
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Old 06-25-2006
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do you not have that start disabler thing down there boy the hood release? you just pull it and the truck wont start.
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Old 06-25-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
I want to do one with a push button, you push the button as you get out of the truck, push it back when you get in...this way it is a little less noticable.

You can always just cut the wire to the positive ignition and wire in a kill switch...right under the colum or something???
I dunno, I'd rather have an on/off switch. Sometimes you won't remember if you have it pushed off or on.
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Old 06-25-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwester04
do you not have that start disabler thing down there boy the hood release? you just pull it and the truck wont start.
Have you got a pic of this?

I'm thinking of having something in the cab. I leave my truck, flick the switch, and it won't start. I get up to go to work in the morning, flick it on, and off I go.
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  #6  
Old 06-25-2006
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Here is what I was talking about:


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Old 06-25-2006
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Oh wow, thats cool. No, I dont have that.
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Old 06-25-2006
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I just found this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
kill switch man now.. find the roll over switch for the fuel cut off near the passanger's feet on the kick panel. take the kick panel off, there will be 2 wires running into it. cut them extend them to a hidden place, us a GOOD METAL switch HIDE IT, connect the wires...flip it for off truck will start for like 2 sec then die, runs out of fuel brother will probly freak out after that because he cant get it to start and think he broke it...life is good..
Is this complete?
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Old 06-26-2006
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ya and what years can u do this, is it near the kick plate in all trucks, mine dosent have that eather Bj and i got same model as urs but u got 1 year newer.
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Old 06-26-2006
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any year there should be 2 wires going to the roll over switch all you need to do is cut one of them thats an old post of mine and extend it to where you want use a GOOD METAL NICE switch, not a crappy auto zone plastic BS...
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Old 06-26-2006
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and the roll over switch is near the pasinger side kick thingy?

thanx zach
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Old 06-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwester04
Here is what I was talking about:



Turn the key and push your truck and pop the clutch it will start. (if you have a stick anyway)


It works a lil better on an auto untill, the wires come uncrimped and your stuck wondering why your new truck wont start. Because some newbie ford tech used the yellow butt conector instead of the red conectors. Ive had that crap on two of the vehicles I bought from the local stealership. They charged me for it on the ranger, give me the paperwork and all for it. But they never installed it, and woulndt give me my money back. I got it back driving thru thier car wash every week for a year, untill they put a key code on it.

/endrant
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Old 06-26-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwester04
Here is what I was talking about:


I had something similar on my 94. I just bought the truck off the lot, but the dealer told me it was a factory item. For whatever reasons, some trucks had them some didn't. If the "key" was unplugged, you could not start that thing no matter what. I had PLENTY of people (shady friends, mechanics, repo guys, etc) try to hot wire, etc the truck. Nobody got it started in 20 minutes, then they just gave up.

When I bought my 03, I asked about having it installed, but nobody knew what I was talking about. Then they gave me the speech aboout the PAS key being already installed.....blah, blah, blah.
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Old 06-27-2006
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hmm that actually looks like a nifty idea. ill hafta look into that.

any reason why you should use a "good metal switch"?
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Old 06-27-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMD
hmm that actually looks like a nifty idea. ill hafta look into that.

any reason why you should use a "good metal switch"?

because of amperage. or just go and get a 30amp relay and you can use any switch that you wish.
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  #16  
Old 06-27-2006
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If you are going to use the fuel shutoff, do not just cut it out, totally disabling it. That switch is really important. Add the new switch in series so that the inertia switch can still function.
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  #17  
Old 06-27-2006
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you can engage/disengage the inertia switch

just use your key and pop the plunger up thru the provide slot

then just push it back down when your ready to go

no mod needed

FYI the 4.0 doesnt run long after with no fuel pump, but a 2.3 will idle for 5 minutes
btw the fuel reset light will come on on the dash unless you mod that
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  #18  
Old 06-27-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger
If you are going to use the fuel shutoff, do not just cut it out, totally disabling it. That switch is really important. Add the new switch in series so that the inertia switch can still function.
my inertia switch still works if the metal kill switch is turned to ON-"run" i used the "ground" wire for the switch, if you turn it to OFF-"dont run" it wont work but then agian the truck CAN NOT run at all so its not like it will ever be moving, being the fuel pump will not work at all..so i dont see what your worried about...
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  #19  
Old 06-27-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blhde
you can engage/disengage the inertia switch

just use your key and pop the plunger up thru the provide slot

then just push it back down when your ready to go

no mod needed

FYI the 4.0 doesnt run long after with no fuel pump, but a 2.3 will idle for 5 minutes
btw the fuel reset light will come on on the dash unless you mod that
BS... my lovely 2.3L with the fuel pump turned off will only run for about 3-7 secounds thats it...
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