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1995 Ranger XLT- Replacement Gauge Calibration?

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Old 06-12-2018
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1995 Ranger XLT- Replacement Gauge Calibration?

My 1995 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 auto had a bad temp gauge. Replaced that cluster which also has the fuel. Both read incorrectly. The fuel gauge is off by about 1/4 tank. The temp gauge is reading about 3/4 hot even when truck is off. Can you reset these or calibrate them. Or is my replacement cluster bad? Thanks,
Ken
 
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Old 06-12-2018
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So temp gauge needle doesn't move with key on?
If not then I would suspect a short to ground on the wire going to SENDER on the engine

Key off doesn't tell you much, the needles often stay up.

None of the gauges have "calibration", you can pop off the needle and put it back on at where you "think" it should be, but very unlikely previous owner did that, and thats the only way it could be off.
 
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Old 06-12-2018
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Help I am going Insane

The original Temp gauge never moved even if shorted to test it. But before I knew that, I replaced both the temp sensor and the thermostat. So I got a new temp gauge/fuel gauge from a junk yard. The temp guage, when key is on, over reacts and shows engine hot. Not all the way but 3/4. If I set it on the cold line, it still jumps when turned on; even though the motor is cold and off. Damn thing defies logic. I am thinking maybe the resistor on back of the gauge is bad?
 

Last edited by Keneye; 06-12-2018 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 06-12-2018
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And you are using a temp SENDER not a temp sensor, they are not the same

You have both on a 1995 Ranger
Sender is for the temp gauge
Sensor is for the computer
They use different types of signals/resistance
 
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Old 06-12-2018
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Replaced both. Also noticed the gas gauge does not seem to be moving and both gauges feel hot to the touch on the back metal part.
 
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Old 06-13-2018
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Problem Solved?

I think I have figured out the mysterious behavior of my instrument cluster. Basically I have two issues. I believe my fuel sending unit is stuck, giving me a false full tank reading. I say that because I drove the truck around last night and the gauge barely moved and kept returning to the almost full position. The temp gauge pegs on hot due to a short. When I disconnect the sensor, the gauge drops to cold. So my replacement cluster works but the readout is wrong due to other factors. The bitch is taking the truck bed off just to inspect and repair/replace fuel sending unit.
 
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Old 06-13-2018
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I would check the OHMS on the Yellow sender wire before pulling the bed

There is an anti-slosh module in the dash that can act the same as you describe
Google: ford anti-slosh module

Use OHM meter on yellow/white stripe wire on the center connector on the back of instrument cluster, should be on Pin 1
Sender is just a variable resistor, like a volume control or light dimmer
Pull off center connector
Ground the OHM Meter
Put other probe on Yellow/white wire
You should see 16(empty) to 158(full) OHMS
Rock the truck, so gas sloshes in the tank, OHMS should go up and down as gasoline sloshes around
If all is well in the tank then OHMS will change as float in tank goes up and down

Anti-slosh module stops fuel gauge needle from going up and down every time you turn a corner
 

Last edited by RonD; 06-13-2018 at 09:50 AM.
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Old 06-13-2018
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Hi, thanks! yes, I plan to do that. Printed out your instructions. I also put in some "Seafoam" cleaner in an attempt to free up the sender arm in case it is frozen in position. Long shot but beats taking off the bed. I can renovate a house from top to bottom. But never really learned mechanics. This Ford has given me a whole new way to spend my time!
 
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Old 06-13-2018
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Also some really good Youtube videos on this. Thank God for the Internet.
 
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