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LED headlight switch screw up!

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Old 05-05-2008
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LED headlight switch screw up!

Ok so the bulb behind my headlight switch went out. It happens. I did the LED upgrade from the instructions. Worked like a charm! But when I was testing it out, the bulb came loose so I pushed it back down with my screwdriver and slipped. It shorted out, sparked and popped, and now my gauge lights don't work and neither do my front marker lights. First thing I thought was I blew a breaker. I checked them all. None are fried. I even went ahead and replaced the ones for the gauges and the marker lights. Nada. I'm going to check the bulbs and see if I just blew them all. Any other thoughts?

What's amusing is the LED is working fine. I guess I should have just left it alone. One bulb exchanged for about 5 others isn't a good trade off. :(
 
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Old 05-05-2008
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I'll send you the schematics if you PM me an e-mail address.



Sounds like you fried the wire that routes power onward from the switch to the gauges and lights. Do the rears work?
 
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Old 05-05-2008
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Originally Posted by Earl43P
I'll send you the schematics if you PM me an e-mail address.



Sounds like you fried the wire that routes power onward from the switch to the gauges and lights. Do the rears work?
I'll have to check the rears tonight. Kinda sucks to drive around at night with no gauge lights. At least the headlights still work. That was my biggest concern at first. Heh The new LED is working great...mocking me from the dash.

I'll shoot you a PM now. Thanks for the help!
 
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Old 05-05-2008
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Well that sucks. Sorry that happened to you -- it's every electrical modders fear to do something like that.
 
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Old 05-05-2008
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What's funny is I'm not new to electronics. I'm a computer technician and I've upgraded all of the bulbs in my Camaro to LEDs. Not one single negative instance. I just slipped with a screwdriver and that's all it took. It sparked and I could smell the burning plastic. The screwdriver wedged between the resistor and the positive connector. I just couldn't unwedge it in time. My neighbors heard a few choice words as my skin started to melt. Hah!
 
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Old 05-05-2008
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haha, oh my neighbors have heard several choice words come out of my mouth when ive been working in my driveway. when i lowered my truck, i screamed the C word at the top of my lungs cuz the control arm fell onto my leg. needless to say i had a visit from a local police officer


on the topic, have you tried to see if any of the wires are visibly burnt? when the fusible link in my BMW failed, the whole power wire was singed and it smelt really bad
 
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Old 05-05-2008
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I haven't checked yet. I would have thought the fuse would have blown before I burned my hand. No such luck. I'll have to pull the dash back apart this weekend to check it out. I hope I don't have to replace the wiring. There's no room in that dash to work!
 
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Old 05-05-2008
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Originally Posted by jgibbs
haha, oh my neighbors have heard several choice words come out of my mouth when ive been working in my driveway. when i lowered my truck, i screamed the C word at the top of my lungs cuz the control arm fell onto my leg. needless to say i had a visit from a local police officer
The C word?
 
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Old 05-05-2008
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C U next tuesday as some people put it
 
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Old 05-06-2008
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Well this is REALLY getting weird! Not only are the instrument panel lights out, so are the DRLs (which I mentioned) but so are the A/C controls, the radio and the buzzer that sounds when you leave the lights on and open the door. I wonder what's the deal? It really seems like a fuse but the fuses are ALL in good shape. I even checked the ones related to the panel with a fuse tester. Anyone have any ideas? Is there another fuse box besides the one on the drivers door side of the dash? (sigh)
 
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Old 05-06-2008
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Did you check every fuse? there's one under the hood that popped on my buddys truck when we shorted it.. I think it's either fuse 5 or 11.. Not 100% sure.. But it was definitely under the hood that fixed it... Chances are, your switch is still good.
 
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Old 05-06-2008
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Greg,

There is a relay box under the dash (below and left of the radio/HVAC control, really hard to find). In that relay box is the Park Lamp relay (among others, like Battery Saver). If you have power out of the WH/BK wire from the Headlamp switch "on" (I believe this is the wire you shorted), then I would see if the BN wire to the Dimmer has power. If not, replace the Park Lamps relay (swap with another just like it).

Otherwise, I think your problem is right at the headlamp switch connector, or that switch itself. Good luck!


Oh, and Trevor is correct about fuse 11 in the UHJB (underhood junction box) powering the Park Lamp relay. Check that one!
 
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Old 05-07-2008
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Originally Posted by Earl43P
Greg,

There is a relay box under the dash (below and left of the radio/HVAC control, really hard to find). In that relay box is the Park Lamp relay (among others, like Battery Saver). If you have power out of the WH/BK wire from the Headlamp switch "on" (I believe this is the wire you shorted), then I would see if the BN wire to the Dimmer has power. If not, replace the Park Lamps relay (swap with another just like it).

Otherwise, I think your problem is right at the headlamp switch connector, or that switch itself. Good luck!


Oh, and Trevor is correct about fuse 11 in the UHJB (underhood junction box) powering the Park Lamp relay. Check that one!
Excellent info! I appreciate you guys helping out. I always wondered what was under that Power Distribution Box under the hood. It turned out the fuse WAS under there! Problem solved. I can now read the dash at night again. Thanks again!
 

Last edited by computerflake; 05-07-2008 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 05-07-2008
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If you open the hood and you're looking at the motor, it's in the back right corner near the firewall by the brake booster and master cylinder... You'll see it, it's got a cover on it that says fuses and relays or something to that affect.
 
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