Ranger not starting in mornings
Ranger not starting in mornings
I have a 2005 Ranger Hi-Rider 2.5
Following a long (8 hours) trip, the following morning it would not start. After a jump start all was ok, went out and it started up ok after 3 hours parking, But same again the next morning.
The battery seemed ok as it was turning, but no startup.
Ended up replacing both the battery and starter motor.
And this morning, same again, eventually it did start.
Is there anything else that could cause this problem ??
Thanks for any help !!
Following a long (8 hours) trip, the following morning it would not start. After a jump start all was ok, went out and it started up ok after 3 hours parking, But same again the next morning.
The battery seemed ok as it was turning, but no startup.
Ended up replacing both the battery and starter motor.
And this morning, same again, eventually it did start.
Is there anything else that could cause this problem ??
Thanks for any help !!
So is the engine is turning over fine but just wont start, or is it acting as if the battery were dead (not turning over or turning very slowly) ?
If its not turning over and seems though the battery is dead after sitting then you have a parasitic draw.
If its turning over but not starting it could be several things but considering its only after it sits a while my first guess would be a leaking injector causing the engine to slowly flood or a bad fuel pump. Try cycling the key to the (run) position, hold for 3 seconds, and then back to off 4 or 5 times before you attempt to start the truck and see if it makes a difference. This will prime the fuel pressure. If that changes nothing try holding the gas pedal to the floor and cranking the engine a few times. The engine shouldn't start even if it were in perfect working order, with the pedal to the floor the computer shuts off the ignition to clear the cylinders. After that try to start it normally and see if that helps.
If its not turning over and seems though the battery is dead after sitting then you have a parasitic draw.
If its turning over but not starting it could be several things but considering its only after it sits a while my first guess would be a leaking injector causing the engine to slowly flood or a bad fuel pump. Try cycling the key to the (run) position, hold for 3 seconds, and then back to off 4 or 5 times before you attempt to start the truck and see if it makes a difference. This will prime the fuel pressure. If that changes nothing try holding the gas pedal to the floor and cranking the engine a few times. The engine shouldn't start even if it were in perfect working order, with the pedal to the floor the computer shuts off the ignition to clear the cylinders. After that try to start it normally and see if that helps.
Thanks for this advice.
The battery (it's a new one) is turning ok, so it may be the fuel pressure.
I'll try your suggestion in the morning, to see whwt happens, if it starts after backing off a few times do I assume it's the ful pump ? But all seems ok once the truck is running.
The battery (it's a new one) is turning ok, so it may be the fuel pressure.
I'll try your suggestion in the morning, to see whwt happens, if it starts after backing off a few times do I assume it's the ful pump ? But all seems ok once the truck is running.
The first test will basically just tell you that you have weak initial fuel pressure. The fuel system should hold pressure for weeks even months so it would suggest a leak (most likely an injector), or a weak pump not building up enough pressure for initial startup. A weak pump can still drive ok and just cause poor starts. The second test will clear any fuel out of the engine before starting to confirm a leaking injector. Could be other things these are just quick easy tests to help narrow down the issue.
Wait wait wait..... Is this thing the European diesel engine? If so forget everything I just said. Most of us here have the US rangers so I thought you had the 2.5 gas engine. I know squat about diesels. There's a few good diesel mechanics on here though that should be able to help you out shortly.
Yup... My advice was useless, sorry. We call your type of ranger the T6. They were never sold here in the united states.
Alan, does it start as normal when it's fully warmed up or just when the engine is completely cooled down.
Is the starter turning it over at the same rate when it's cold as well as when it's warm ?
Your in Thailand so your crank case oil will be quite "liquid" when the engine is cold, so the starter should whip the engine over the same rate as when the engine is hot, is this happening ?
Is the starter turning it over at the same rate when it's cold as well as when it's warm ?
Your in Thailand so your crank case oil will be quite "liquid" when the engine is cold, so the starter should whip the engine over the same rate as when the engine is hot, is this happening ?
Ok to run through this again.
I have a diesel 2.5 turbo Ranger Hi-rider.
I have replaced the battery and the starter motor.
When I try to start, the engine turns but the starter will not engage - until I get a jump start.
If I take the truck to a garage, the car has warmed up and whatever is repaired/replaced the truck starts ok.
Is it the ignition relay ? The key turns ok and all sounds good except the starter.
Any ideas/solutions gratefully considered
I have a diesel 2.5 turbo Ranger Hi-rider.
I have replaced the battery and the starter motor.
When I try to start, the engine turns but the starter will not engage - until I get a jump start.
If I take the truck to a garage, the car has warmed up and whatever is repaired/replaced the truck starts ok.
Is it the ignition relay ? The key turns ok and all sounds good except the starter.
Any ideas/solutions gratefully considered
Alan, does it start as normal when it's fully warmed up or just when the engine is completely cooled down.
Is the starter turning it over at the same rate when it's cold as well as when it's warm ?
Your in Thailand so your crank case oil will be quite "liquid" when the engine is cold, so the starter should whip the engine over the same rate as when the engine is hot, is this happening ?
Is the starter turning it over at the same rate when it's cold as well as when it's warm ?
Your in Thailand so your crank case oil will be quite "liquid" when the engine is cold, so the starter should whip the engine over the same rate as when the engine is hot, is this happening ?
It turns over the same whether hot or cold.
Would the oil level have anything to do with this - although I'm sure it's ok ?
Thanks
Ok to run through this again.
I have a diesel 2.5 turbo Ranger Hi-rider.
I have replaced the battery and the starter motor.
When I try to start, the engine turns but the starter will not engage - until I get a jump start.
If I take the truck to a garage, the car has warmed up and whatever is repaired/replaced the truck starts ok.
Is it the ignition relay ? The key turns ok and all sounds good except the starter.
Any ideas/solutions gratefully considered
I have a diesel 2.5 turbo Ranger Hi-rider.
I have replaced the battery and the starter motor.
When I try to start, the engine turns but the starter will not engage - until I get a jump start.
If I take the truck to a garage, the car has warmed up and whatever is repaired/replaced the truck starts ok.
Is it the ignition relay ? The key turns ok and all sounds good except the starter.
Any ideas/solutions gratefully considered
What I find confusing is your statement: "When I try to start, the engine turns but the starter will not engage - until I get a jump start"
And what does the mechanic do at the garage that seems to fix the problem, the appears to come back ?
There is something wrong with the site, it won't let me edit my post.
If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage when the truck isn't running, it should be at around 12 to 12.8 volts give or take, that's for a new battery, which you have.
Start the truck and check the voltage again, it should be above battery voltage, what is it ?
If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage when the truck isn't running, it should be at around 12 to 12.8 volts give or take, that's for a new battery, which you have.
Start the truck and check the voltage again, it should be above battery voltage, what is it ?
I thought it may have been a glow plug problem, but not.
What I find confusing is your statement: "When I try to start, the engine turns but the starter will not engage - until I get a jump start"
And what does the mechanic do at the garage that seems to fix the problem, the appears to come back ?
What I find confusing is your statement: "When I try to start, the engine turns but the starter will not engage - until I get a jump start"
And what does the mechanic do at the garage that seems to fix the problem, the appears to come back ?
I replaced the battery as it's over 3 years old (good going for Thailand !!) and had the same problem.
Next, the starter motor as the old one was partly rusted.
Both times, the truck started first time as it had only been standing for an hour at most.
There is something wrong with the site, it won't let me edit my post.
If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage when the truck isn't running, it should be at around 12 to 12.8 volts give or take, that's for a new battery, which you have.
Start the truck and check the voltage again, it should be above battery voltage, what is it ?
If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage when the truck isn't running, it should be at around 12 to 12.8 volts give or take, that's for a new battery, which you have.
Start the truck and check the voltage again, it should be above battery voltage, what is it ?
Of course, I have to get the truck to start first !!
If the battery will not turn the engine over after it sits, I was thinking that the alternator isn't putting out, but if it's at 14 volts, then that sounds OK, any more then that and the battery will over charge.
There also could be a drain on the battery and when left parked over night, it doesn't have enough voltage to turn things over.
If this is the case, when you park the truck after running it for the day, disconnect the negative side of the battery at the end of the day.
In the morning connect the battery up and if it turns over at starts, then you have a drain on the battery when left for long periods of time.
There also could be a drain on the battery and when left parked over night, it doesn't have enough voltage to turn things over.
If this is the case, when you park the truck after running it for the day, disconnect the negative side of the battery at the end of the day.
In the morning connect the battery up and if it turns over at starts, then you have a drain on the battery when left for long periods of time.
Any number of things, a faulty regulator in the alternator for example.
They can be hard to trace if that is the problem.
But disconnecting the battery over night will tell you if there is one.
The battery should easily hold a charge over night to turn the engine over once it's connected back up again.
They can be hard to trace if that is the problem.
But disconnecting the battery over night will tell you if there is one.
The battery should easily hold a charge over night to turn the engine over once it's connected back up again.
Now 2 weeks since the repairs, but I still have problems starting in the mornings from cold. Engine turns a few times and finally starts, but a massive cloud of blackish smoke comes out from the exhaust.
Once it's been running, the engine will start again ok.
I've had the truck serviced and had the engine purge and injector cleaner stuff put in.
Perhaps the smoke is part of the cleaning process ?
But why does it still take 20-odd seconds to start in the mornings - maybe the new glowplugs are wrong ?
Once it's been running, the engine will start again ok.
I've had the truck serviced and had the engine purge and injector cleaner stuff put in.
Perhaps the smoke is part of the cleaning process ?
But why does it still take 20-odd seconds to start in the mornings - maybe the new glowplugs are wrong ?
The black smoke is lots of burnt diesel fuel.
The only suggestion I have is to go through and check the glow plug circuit again.
Our diesel delivery van, doesn't start right away from cold either, it takes a number of cranks before the engine builds up enough compression to fire the diesel.
With that said, 20 seconds is a bit much, but try this,
Turn the key on and wait for the glow plug light to go out and do this a couple of times before cranking the engine.
This helps to warm up the combustion area a bit by running a couple of cold start cycles.
The only suggestion I have is to go through and check the glow plug circuit again.
Our diesel delivery van, doesn't start right away from cold either, it takes a number of cranks before the engine builds up enough compression to fire the diesel.
With that said, 20 seconds is a bit much, but try this,
Turn the key on and wait for the glow plug light to go out and do this a couple of times before cranking the engine.
This helps to warm up the combustion area a bit by running a couple of cold start cycles.
Thanks for the advice, Jeff.
I also think that the new glowplugs are not working 100%, although I have the old (very black) ones I didn't see the new ones.
I'll try your suggestion re. turning the glow light on/off a couple of times before starting.
Will report back........
I also think that the new glowplugs are not working 100%, although I have the old (very black) ones I didn't see the new ones.
I'll try your suggestion re. turning the glow light on/off a couple of times before starting.
Will report back........


