Replace rear brakes? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 05-10-2008
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Replace rear brakes?

I am wanting to replace my back brake pads and have never done so. I have replaced my front before and it wasnt to bad.

Can some one list the steps and tools that are needed for the job. Like I said I have never done a drum brake set up.

Also do I have to get the drums turned?

If you know of a "how to" can you list that because I need to get all the information I can.
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Old 05-10-2008
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mmm thats something i wouldnt know how to mess with.....why cant we have rear disk breaks!!!!

and next time you change your front brakes or anything for that matter....get a set of brembos.....i love them, you stop ALOT faster
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Old 05-11-2008
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Some one has to know something. Any thing would be appreciated.
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Old 05-11-2008
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Get the spring tool. You will be glad you did. Also just get a Hayne's and follow the directions.
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Old 05-11-2008
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you'll want a spring tool....and if its your first time make sure u have a diagram or pay really close attention to how those springs are other than that its not all that tough...make sure ur wheel cylinders arent leaking either. Drums should be fine unless u see any very visible defect
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Old 05-11-2008
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Just take both drums off do one side and just MATCH everything on the other side up. Then do the other side matching it up with the first side. If that makes sense.
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Old 05-11-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roach2004 View Post
Just take both drums off do one side and just MATCH everything on the other side up. Then do the other side matching it up with the first side. If that makes sense.
x2 Do 1 side at a time so you always have 1 side for reference.
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Old 05-11-2008
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make sure to pay attention to witch end "front or rear" has the small shoe and the large shoe
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Old 05-11-2008
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brake spoon also incase if you need to let off the adjuster to get the drums off then set tension after..

yes you should get the drums atleast clean cut turn..
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Old 05-11-2008
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Icon14

Ditto on the only do one side at a time. Just my opinion, Haynes would not be much help with this. Just leave the other side alone and buy a spring tool and dismantle one side. Clean liberally with brake cleaner to remove gunk and buildup. If not, things will start to stick eventually. Also, there is special brake drum grease that you need to put dabs on the backing plate where the shoes rub. You will see shiny spots on the backing plate. Every place you see a shiny spot, put a little grease there. That helps prevent sticking and especially noise when applying the brakes. At the bottom where the shoes meet, you will see an adjuster screw with teeth on it. That is the self adjuster. Brake shoes have to be adjusted unlike disks. If they are functioning correctly, they adjust every time you apply the brakes IN REVERSE ONLY. You will need to screw the adjuster in so you can get your drum back on. One end of the spring tool should have a flat end on it that you use to screw that back out some once the drum is on. You should hear light dragging when spinning the drum if it is adjusted correctly. There is a rubber plug in the back side of the backing plate that you remove to insert the tool and spin the adjuster. Just practice this while the drum is still off so you get the feel for it. This sounds complicated but just make sure you have a few hours for your first time and be patient and you will be fine. I have never understood why people pay 300-400 bucks for this work when there is nothing complicated involved, it is only time consuming. Also, if you lose or break a piece taking it apart, don't go to Ford. Napa sells everything inside the drum so no sweat. If your truck has a bunch of miles on it you could take the drum and have it measured to see if it is safe. There is a maximum diameter stamped in the drum. If it is fairly low miles it won't need turned unless you feel a pulsing in the pedal when you push it down. That means it is out of round. If the steering wheel pulses when you brake that means the rotors on the front are out of round but pulsing in the pedal only means the rear drums. Hope that helps somewhat.
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Old 05-11-2008
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Another ditto on the big shoe small shoe post. The problem is if someone else replaced them incorrectly, then you will put them back incorrectly. The large shoe goes towards the front of the truck since it does more of the braking.

You will be fine. Everyone here seems very helpful. I just signed up today cause it is raining here and I was bored surfing the net. Seems like a nice bunch of people
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Old 05-11-2008
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You don't really need the spoon to back off the adjusters. If you don't want to buy the spring tool use a needlenose vise-grips or a piece of wire for the springs. It's easy to do, not bad at all. When checking the wheel cylinders for leakage, gently peel back the rubber covers and look for leaks, re-seat them after you peel them back.
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Old 05-11-2008
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also if your gonna replace the shoe's might as well do wheel cylinders and spring kit while your at it. not to much more and good insurance

Last edited by Redneckstone; 05-11-2008 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 05-11-2008
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^^Yeah the whole $15 at most for a wheel cylinder isn't bad.
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Old 05-11-2008
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Thanks guys. I think I might do this tomorrow morning.

So what all do I need.
- pads/shoes
-rebuild kit
-spring tool
-grease

Any thing else?
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  #16  
Old 05-11-2008
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I get what everyone is saying about replacing wheel cylinders but this is a waste of money if they aren't leaking. Also, this guy is new to this and if he replaces those then he is into bleeding brakes which I doubt he is familiar with and if you aren't careful and get air in the abs pump then it will have to go to the dealer to get bled properly. I would leave those alone unless they are seeping fluid.
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Old 05-11-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Of War View Post
Thanks guys. I think I might do this tomorrow morning.

So what all do I need.
- pads/shoes
-rebuild kit
-spring tool
-grease

Any thing else?
rear brakes are called shoes not pads so unless your doing front only shoes.

the rebuild spring kit

wheel cylinders

spring tool, brake spoon

no grease on brakes, anti-seize on shoe wear spots and some on the adjuster, little on the wheel studs when you go to put the wheel back on..

hammer/sledge maybe if the rear drum is stuck on because of the lip on the drum.

couple wrenches

brake fluid when you bleed the brakes after putting on the wheel cylinders

that should be it but i might be missing something
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Old 05-11-2008
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Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
I get what everyone is saying about replacing wheel cylinders but this is a waste of money if they aren't leaking. Also, this guy is new to this and if he replaces those then he is into bleeding brakes which I doubt he is familiar with and if you aren't careful and get air in the abs pump then it will have to go to the dealer to get bled properly. I would leave those alone unless they are seeping fluid.
replacing them if there leaking or rusted cylinders. being he is "new" like your saying he might not be good at calling if there ok or not. and being the crap design of fords for YEARS normally wheel cylinders are junk around 50k easy.. every ranger i have worked on the brakes the wheel cylinders are usually toast.. or soon to be..
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  #19  
Old 05-11-2008
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I understand exactly what you are saying and I agree. I do the whole works at one time myself to keep from having to go back in also. Leaking cylinders will ruin shoes. I just wouldn't want him to bite off more than he can chew so to speak. After all, the brakes are fairly important. But let's be serious, if you took it to Midas or Ford either one and gave them $200, it would get shoes and that's it. No cleaning, no grease, no turning of drums no wheel cylinders. So that means there are tens of thousands of them running around like that. Doesn't mean it's right but they are still all stopping somehow.
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  #20  
Old 05-11-2008
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most rangers are only using there front brakes to stop.. will they still stop yes.. is it safe.. no.. does it cause premature wear on the front brakes yes.. yes it might happen doesnt mean i agree with it or tell him to just do what they do..
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Old 05-11-2008
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Jake not to be an *** but if your this new to it.. please please find someone that knows what there doing and have them come over and lend you a hand in learning..
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  #22  
Old 05-11-2008
04 EDGE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
. The large shoe goes towards the front of the truck since it does more of the braking.
FAIL!!!!!

WRONG!!!!

the secondary shoe always has more friction material and always goes to the rear. the primary shoe will always have less friction material and faces the front and does the most work.

this is one of the easiest questions that is on the ASE test and you sir would fail.


edit: never use anti-sieze on wheel studs!
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  #23  
Old 05-11-2008
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Originally Posted by 04 EDGE View Post
FAIL!!!!!

WRONG!!!!

the secondary shoe always has more friction material and always goes to the rear. the primary shoe will always have less friction material and faces the front and does the most work.

this is one of the easiest questions that is on the ASE test and you sir would fail.


edit: never use anti-sieze on wheel studs!

Not always is it that way
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  #24  
Old 05-11-2008
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Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
Jake not to be an *** but if your this new to it.. please please find someone that knows what there doing and have them come over and lend you a hand in learning..
Stone, I replaced my front brakes about a 1 1/2 ago and it was pretty straight forward. I just like asking alot of questions and making sure I know what I am getting my self into.
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  #25  
Old 05-11-2008
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This is all you need to do. Make it look like this.

Name:  drumbrake.jpg
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