hey guys having problems here. I have starting problems. I need to change my starter solenoid, which i believe is the problem but i do not have a fender mounted solenoid its on top of the starter and no one has one. I also have a three post and it seems everyone only has a four post. any ideas? anyone else ran into this?

 

i just replaced my starter the other day. got the solenoid as well. my oem one had three posts, and the replacement had 4. the directions said to ignore the fourth if the original only had 3.

 

but the starter already came with the solenoid right? as in it was already attached.

 

no, mine has a fender mounted.

 

i would replace the whole starter it will come with it already attached, its kind of like rebuilding alternators or starters nobody does it anymore, its just as cheap to buy a whole assembly there not that expensive

 

a new starter is like 150. and i wasnt even for sure that thats the problem.


edit: and why am i the only one with a starter mounted solenoid rather than a fender mount.

 

your not the only one almost all newer vehicles are starter mounted and if im not mistaken the solenoids are not serviced seperatly

 

yeah i just checked all auto parts stores and they all were fender mounted.

 

update. so if i turn the key to on and run a jumper wire from the s terminal of the solenoid to the b terminal of the starter the truck starts.

 

dont you mean starter mounted?

 

that means its bad!

 

update problem fixed, went to ford, was getting desperate, they looked at it. found that my problem was starter relay fuse was not making contact.

 

good glad to hear you got it fixed!

 

thanks it was getting very frustrating.

 

I am having troubles with my starter, nothing happens, no click or anything. Where is the relay fuse located?

 

It would help if you could provided your trucks year, model, and engine size in order to determine what might be at fault.

 

Sorry about that! My truck is a 94 Ranger XLT with manual trans and 4.0 engine.

 

First check the ign fuse (60amp) in the engine compartment fuse/relay box. If its good proceed to the next step

Your starter solenoid is on the inner right fender and should look something like this Click link. The wire next to the guys thumb (Red with Light Blue stripe) receives power from the ignition switch in the crank position.

Disconnect this wire. Using a 12v test light or DVM set to read 12v back probe this wire and turn the key to the crank position. The light should light up or the meter should read 12v. If it checks ok reinstall the wire on the solenoid and proceed to next step.

Pull the solenoid off the fender, clean the back side and the fender where it mounts ensuring a good ground connection and reinstall the solenoid. Retest as above.

If the Red with Light Blue wire did not have power in the crank position check the clutch pedal position switch operation under dash. With clutch pedal depressed, and the key in the crank position, both the red with light blue and the pink wire should have power.

Check these circuits and post back with your findings.

 

First of all, thanks very much to Rev for giving me some steps to follow. I have solved the problem. My plan was to start with the volt meter, but I had nobody nearby to turn the key ... however, I thought i may as well check the safety switch on the clutch first, as I hadn't thought about that. That was the problem, the sleeve had fallen off the master cylinder ram. I must have kicked it while driving. I pushed it back into place, and victory! Truck now starts. Thanks again!

PS. next problem, thermostat. Very little heat in cab, and temp gauge shows running very cool even after long highway trips. I compared with friend's ranger, his temp gauge sits in the middle range.

 

Glad to hear it was a simple fix...

Start with the truck fully warmed up, feel the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater core hoses. If they feel about the same temperature I’d suspect a stuck open thermostat.

 

Yes, it seems to be the thermostat. I am not sure where it is located... can you point out the location? Thanks!

 

Follow the upper rad hose back to the engine block and to the thermostat housing.

 

So I’m so new to this that I created this account because of the exact same problem with a single click and then nothing. It’s a new battery, starter, and the alternator checked. Funny enough I was trying to fix the problem by undoing the ground from the battery and unbolting the wiring from the starter and putting it back and for whatever reason it started and drove fine but after turning it off the single click returned. Ideas please

 

Check ALL ground wires. Yes this sounds trivial and simple but do it. I had an old honda that acted like it had a dead battery. Turns out it just needed the battery clamps tightened and the grounds going to the engine block retightened. Take each one off, sand down the frame/engine where they attach, sand down the loop connector on the wire, and tighten them back down. Theres one on the engine block, maybe more. Theres one by the headlights on the crossmember. Probably others, I don't have them memorized

Check the positive wire. Battery connection tight? Check at the starter. Make sure that is tight too. And dont let your wrench touch the frame or the engine when you have it on the starter bolts, or sparks will fly and you will get burned. I laid my socket wrench across the terminals of my tiny *** honda battery, 450 CCA battery. Huge flash of sparks for maybe one tenth of a second, and that short amount of time was all it needed to heat that handle up so hot I burned the palm of my hand when I grabbed it. DC is just as dangerous as AC, don't be slippin.