So I got home last night, got out of the truck and hit the lock button. I didn't hear a click. So I hit it again. Nothing. "OK", I figure, "fuse must be blown." Go to push down the driver side door lock, and it won't budge (stuck in unlock). Same with driver side door. Feels like the actuators are pushing up (unlock) constantly. It was 1:30 AM so I didn't feel like messing with it, I unhooked the negative terminal of the battery so it wouldn't die and went inside.

Today I'm still experiencing the same problem, however this time when I got to campus I tried manually locking my doors after the battery was disconnected. (Forgot last night, man was I tired). Even with power off the actuators are stiff. I wonder if it's possible they burned out. They are pretty much the exact same model as shown here (aftermarket):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=120061942006

It may be a wiring short but I'm confident I was careful running the wires as I didn't want automatic firestarting locks. (See long description below about how I wire stuff).

Maybe the actuators are just cheap? Any input from those of you who have done something like this? I would appreciate it. Basically I think I need new actuators and I would like something more reliable if it gets stuck "on" again.

-Josh (and yes, the lock system is all aftermarket, did it myself)

(My wiring methods)

Soldered + electrical taped connections, run inside plastic tubing from the actuator right into the point where it goes through the rubber tube-like thing between the door and the cab. Inside the cab, no wiring of mine is directly ziptied down. When I tie down wire, I put the plastic wire loom over it and snug down a zip-tie until the loom is snug, but make sure the wire can move inside the looming.

 

Autopsy results are in.

Noticed on the way home that the lock/unlock switch I got from A1Electric stuck in the Unlock position. This of course heated up the motors to the point that the mechanically bound up, then sometime down the road the 15A fuse for the whole thing blew.

So I have a root cause (crappy switch or bad installation, there is some pressure on it) and now an excuse to start looking for those door inserts with the factory switches in them. Perhaps I should see if there are any junkyards around Portage here...

 

actuators are probably bad.. theres a power voltage switch for that reason in the new cars/trucks.. when it heats up to a certain temp, it flips the switch on you and take the power off the actuator.. granted its probably been stuck for a while, it most likely needs actuators to.. i've dealt with them alot and generally thats what happens

 

Please see my "Hello" message in the "introduce yourself" section where I annotate my power door lock problem.

Thanks,
-ja51

 

Unfortunately, I don't know much about the stock actuators. I have some aftermarket units that I hacked into my doors. Not knowing how to approach the stock ones, I can only offer suggestions:

* Make sure all the connections are clean and not corroded (low power may under-actuate the lock)
* Make sure all mechanical connections are solid.

That's about it. Sorry I can't be much more help. Maybe someone with stock power locks can chime in.