General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Update!!! Please read if you have an E-Fan!!!

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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #51  
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From: Palm Bay, FL
Where exactly did you have the controller mounted? On the drivers side of the truck by the battery or on the passenger side of the truck? When I installed mine the fuse ended up being like 7-8 inches from the battery.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #52  
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From: Kent State, Kent Ohio
im gunna say the passenger side, ive got mine over there too....
 
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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #53  
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From: The Keystone State
Mine was on the driver's side. The inline fuse was three inches away from the controller. I would've had to cut it out, splice the wires back together and splice in the fuse closer to the terminal.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #54  
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From: Palm Bay, FL
Originally Posted by l2en
Mine was on the driver's side. The inline fuse was three inches away from the controller. I would've had to cut it out, splice the wires back together and splice in the fuse closer to the terminal.
Thats weird as my old controller and new controler were both in the same spot for the fuse. It was a good 7 inches or more away from the controller.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #55  
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From: The Keystone State
I'd say it was more like four or five inches from the controller and then another two feet to the battery. I could've made it like a foot away from the battery but then there'd be exposed wiring.

So much for a clean install =[

I told the investigator that and he said it wouldn't have made a difference. He told me fuse everything to the battery (duh) and have the fuse as close to the terminal as possible.

Do they make terminals with built in fuses? lol
 
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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #56  
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From: dalton,ga.
Originally Posted by l2en
nothing wrong with the efans, it's just a design flaw in the controller. Not Jusnes fault. I want everyone to realize that.

TorqFlo seems to be owned by a company call CompressorWorks. If you have one of these controllers please contact them or else nothing will be done. They should offer replacements if they get enough calls! Get on the phone and express your concern even if you don't have one!

Compressorworks Inc.

Private Company, Headquarters Location
3609 Pipestone Rd.
Dallas TX 75212-6110
PH(214)688-1066
Fax(214)678-9779

special thanks to shalafi for the info =]

I do not think you will have do that,i think they will take action when they get the bill for your truck.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #57  
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From: The Keystone State
What about all the ppl with the controllers? I'd demand a replacement. Period. It is easily fixed but why?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #58  
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If you really want to fuse your circuit at the power source, in this case the battery, use a fusible link rated at the proper amperage right off the positive terminal.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2006
  #59  
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The b*tch about it is, I thought about doing that. I had some in my garage. Ugh, I thought that inline was sufficient.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2006
  #60  
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by l2en
The b*tch about it is, I thought about doing that. I had some in my garage. Ugh, I thought that inline was sufficient.

For the most part inline fuses work just fine as most add-ons are hooked into other circuits that have main distribution fuses. However, if your connecting right off the battery its always best to use fusible links.

IMO if you needed to take power directly from the battery I would recommend running a main fusible link to a new bus block under hood and then make the connections for the accessories from the bus with inline fuses.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2006
  #61  
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From: Fuquay-Varina, NC
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...341#post414341
 
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Old Aug 17, 2006
  #62  
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From: New Kensington, PA
Originally Posted by Rev
For the most part inline fuses work just fine as most add-ons are hooked into other circuits that have main distribution fuses. However, if your connecting right off the battery its always best to use fusible links.

IMO if you needed to take power directly from the battery I would recommend running a main fusible link to a new bus block under hood and then make the connections for the accessories from the bus with inline fuses.
I do have mine on a Buss Bar, it is a good idea and should be safe...hopefully!
 
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Old Aug 17, 2006
  #63  
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From: Grand Rapids, Mi
Originally Posted by l2en
yeah yeah lol, I forgot. I never thought I'd be important enough for a sticky

Yay!

I've read a bit of both threads and I'm just sorry to see it happen to someone on here, or anyone for that matter. I didn't catch what the status was on you being able to keep and part out the truck or whatever. Hopefully it was all good, tho.

I'm getting the run around on my truck as we speak, not accident wise, but infringement of warranty, etc. The dealerships fault, not mine. Yeah. Good luck, brother!
 
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Old Aug 17, 2006
  #64  
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Im glad everything is getting resolved. The design error was definately on TorqFlo's end, but we are going to send everyone who got a torqflo controller from us a new primary wire with a fuse holder within 5 inches of the battery.

While this is not a problem with our efan kits, we recognize the safety issue and want to do our part to make our efans safe. We are gathering parts now to build the primary wires and will send them out ASAP, you can read more about it in the thread that kristoffer linked to earlier
 
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Old Aug 17, 2006
  #65  
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From: Charlestown, IN
geeze i wish you guys had better customer service......JUST KIDDING! lol.....you guys have great customer service!!!
 
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Old Aug 17, 2006
  #66  
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From: dalton,ga.
Originally Posted by l2en
What about all the ppl with the controllers? I'd demand a replacement. Period. It is easily fixed but why?
Yeah,you have made your point i understand.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2006
  #67  
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From: Imperial Beach, CA
O Boy
 
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Old Aug 22, 2006
  #68  
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Hey I am not yelling at you man and you followed the directions right so its not your fault. But anyway I just want to say whenever anyone is installing anything electrical you want the shortest wire possible from the power source to the fuse.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2006
  #69  
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From: The Keystone State
I know, I just figured that if the manufacturer had an inline fuse fixed to that wire there, it'd be fine. If I cut it, there wouldn't be much room to work with.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2006
  #70  
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From: The Keystone State
Here's a pic of the culprit....
Name:  DSCN1665.jpg
Views: 1039
Size:  61.2 KB
 
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Old Aug 23, 2006
  #71  
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^^Dang, thats bad!!!
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006
  #72  
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Is that the fan controller?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006
  #73  
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From: Washington, DC
Originally Posted by rideac1
Is that the fan controller?

WAS that the fan controller?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006
  #74  
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Is that the culprit or is the 'poorly fused' power wire the culprit?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2006
  #75  
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From: The Keystone State
It was malfunctioning since day one. The power wire was the "official" cause.

Yes, that WAS the controller lol
 
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