I have searched the forums without success. Many similar issues but year doesn’t match

2005 xlt 3l 2wd 185k miles.

I thought gem but that isn’t present since 2004. Have power to the switch and switches close and open (tested with multi tester) so I don’t think it’s the stalk / switch. Have bridged the connector power to washer motor manually. Still no spray. Think it’s all connected somehow. Have switched the relays around on the wiper circuit. No joy. Would not expect relays or multiple relays to all fail at once. The cab 30 amp fuses also look good. I will directly power the washer motor today and see what that does - but the back/white cable at the stall looks to be the same cable at the washer motor and I can’t find a wiring diagram showing a fuse between stalk and washer or which relay it needs.

wondering if the washer is down because it can’t fire the wipers and so there is really only a problem somewhere with the wipers

another oddity probably not related but you never know with the ranger ! I get slight voltage variations on the radio ignition power when I depress the clutch and the battery is charging - like the first 20 mins of driving - goes away after that. I know because the new radio is sensitive to 12v on its ignition on circuit and it bounces off and on with the clutch.

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, the GEM was replace in 2004 with the SJB(smart junction box) its behind the passenger side kick panel, cab fuse box is part of the SJB
GEM or SJB are the "Body Computer", BCM, runs all cab electrics, like wiper/washer
SJB has 4 larger wire connectors, they can get moisture intrusion that will cause corrosion in the connections

Disconnect 1 or both battery cables
Remove kick panel and then remove all 4 connectors and look for signs of corrosion, clean as needed
Reconnect them to the SJB, this, in itself, cleans ALL the connections so good to do if there are cab electric issues

This article shows the steps to remove kick panel and see the 4 large connectors: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...m-horn.143295/


Wash motors are common failure in ALL vehicles, if it doesn't run when you apply 12volt and ground then replace it
Or test its connector for 12v/ground when pressing the button, if you have 12v then washer pump is bad

No Car radio is sensitive to 12volts, they have internal power supplies that run on voltages from 10 to 15volts
It may be mis-wired if its not a Factory Ford radio, there is a START 12v wire that MUTES Ford radios that SHOULD NOT be connected to 3rd party radios
START circuit uses the clutch pedal switch

 

Pretty sure it’s not the washer motor because the wipers and washers went out at the same time - but the washer motor is easier to check.

I pulled and cleaned and checked all the fuses hood and side box. No change.

the clutch issue is occasional. It’s a stick but we have narrowed that down to the power on the radio (not the main power - the ignition detection) bounces when there is a loud ‘snap’ when the clutch is depressed. Doesn’t happen every time just sometimes. Like a clack noise. I will have to research that. Hadn’t noticed it when driving just when we were working on it. Maybe it’s a clutch or synchro lock engaging.

some oddity on the relays. Input power to the relays is fine but when I activate anything on the multi switch nothing appears to change on the relay contacts so the switch appears to work but isn’t communicating with the relays. How do I verify the relays are good ? Again I wouldn’t expect two to fail at the same time and swapping them doesn’t change anything.

 

So the washer motor works when direct power is applied.

I disconnected examined and reconnected all the multi pin connectors on the cabin circuit board. Very little apparent dirt. Some slight greening on the face of one but cleaned them all and reconnected. No change.

considering swapping out for new relays but just to eliminate the issue. I think it’s power / switch selections not getting to the relays but it should be a straight shot from the switch through the cabin connectors to the relays or power not correctly getting the the controls (I have power at the control connector though) and I don’t believe they can have all failed at once so it’s got to be some form of common earth or power side issue

 

In 2005 fuse 5 in SJB powers wipers and washers, 30amp

There is no connection between multi-function switch and Relays
Mutlti-function switch connects to SJB and then SJB activates relays

Wiring diagram for 2006, 2004 and 5 are the same
Multi-function switch for wiper control is all Grounds, it grounds a wire to the SJB for each function there are resistors in the multi-function switch for intermittent wipers so variable ground connection for speed and delay

Looks like all the wiper wiring is on Connector 2280A on the SJB

Numbering seen here: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...0e0b4aee7.jpeg

 

Taking a breather because I am frustrated not to have found cause. 30amp is good. Checked but I havent checked the line for wire damage or a break (seems unlikely though).

I have a limited opportunity to fix it before I run out of time. Open Heart surgery 1st august so then will have to wait 8 weeks. And not free next two weekends :-(

 

You show accessory relay. I think that slot is open ? Nothing in it. I will check later.

 

Yes, accessory "delay" relay was internal on some SJBs, open place is nothing to worry about, it just kept power windows and some times the radio working after key off, then shut off that power after a door was opened
So nothing to do with wpiers

 

Would have been ok someone removed it. Easy fix …. Now not :-(

 

There shouldn't be an metal terminals in that slot, which means it is unused in your model

 

Ran diagnostics. Nothing coming up on codes. Going to have to start running new wiring lines :-(

 

I would unplug the one connector, C2280A, and test the wires
Wires to multi-function switch can be tested with OHM Meter, they are all grounds

Wires to wiper relays can be tested with Key On, should see 12v on each relays coil wire, and if you Ground that wire washer or wiper should come on

Its more than likely not a wiring issue, Ford SJBs can fail, well parts of them can fail

If you check all the wires and they test OK, then replace SJB

 

What / where is it exactly ? I am a little confused. I THINK its in the cabin behind the fuse panel ? but I dont see anything there that looks like a component. The connectors take up a ton of space and then... not much room for anything else

There is a small blue interconnection box under the steering column that is a candidate ?

 

?????

SJB is accessed by removing passenger side kick panel

You said you already did this, "I disconnected examined and reconnected all the multi pin connectors on the cabin circuit board."

Connector C2280A is one of those connectors, it has all the wiper/washer wiring, as shown on diagram posted

 

The '2280A" connector was the one with coppering on it at the bottom that I cleaned - so I repulled it and removed the unit / board module it plugs into.
I read another thread it can be opened and cleaned and that solved it for some. So.. tonights jobs are:

1/ Test the wiper motor isnt fried (and shorting out).
I will isolate and hand test the wiper motor tonight (damn thats awkward because the open connector faces away from you to the far side of the truck so a two person job for me unless I make a custom connector.)
Then if I can figure the pin layouts, test the wiper and washer motors fire from forcing the circuit at the connector.

2 Clean the GEM ((SJB) that I have extracted)

I ALSO read through that on the connector I should have either ground or hot on the connector and connecting a hot connector to ground should fire one of the functions (wiper, washer) that would get me back to the SJB as the issue, not the wiper motor?

I tried one and got a good spark but no action (but could that be the 'Park' connection ? - the spark and no action means test the motor above is a priority now).
didnt see a PIN layout for the connector (2280A) to know what goes where and tracing is a pain - so if someone has a pin layout for the 2280A that would help me.

 

Huh. I THINK the 'Clack' on the clutch pedal could be the starter solenoid engaging (which it should not) and that would also explain the radio power bounce on ignition sensor (because the truck THINKS the starter got engaged when I press the clutch even though the engine is running and the truck is in motion)

That is going to be fund to diagnose - because the prior owner installed an aftermarket cruise control and I am already suspicious of its connections. one of the connections is to disconnect cruise on clutch - so a miswire on that could well cause some downstream issues and make some interaction with cruise control.. oh my. At least a quick diagnose will be to disconnect cruise control..

 

Use the 2006 wire diagram posted earlier for theC2280A pin numbering and "layout", use the wire colors
You can jumper that connector to test all functions of wiper system, no need to do that at the motor

As seen in the diagram, ALL the wiper relays are controlled by GROUNDING them at the C2280A connector
So with key on and C2280A connected
Ground pin 12, tan/red wire on connector, washer pump should activate
Repeat for the other 2 relay ground wires, pin 13 and 17


Ye, if someone added cruise control to clutch switch wiring they did it wrong
Clutch switch has 3 internal switches, each switch has its own 2 wires
All 3 switches are OPEN when clutch pedal is up, all 3 closed when clutch pedal is down

Ford used white/pink and pink wires for START on the clutch pedal switch, under no circumstance should these 2 wires have anything spliced to them

One of the other 2 switches in the clutch pedal switch were used to disable cruise if clutch pedal was pressed down

Neither the white/pink or pink wire should have 12volts with Key on or engine running
Either would only have 12v with key turned to START

If you hear a "click" when clutch pedal is pressed then someone has spliced into the wrong wire

 

Didnt have time last night so no progress. Scout meeting... so tonight I will do as much as I can and hopefuly post a 'This is it') or I am running out of time !!!!

Right now the SJB is out so the truck is 100% down until I get it back together.
Leave on Saturday for Summer camp too - guess I am NOT taking the truck !

 

Sjb looks good and using the wiring diagram I don’t have power on the expected connectors. I do have earths on the expected switch side so it’s between the sjb connector and the relays. Possibly the relays possibly the connector in to the hood fuse box. Will recheck the relay fuses tonight.

did get some different readings between a new wiper motor and the old one so swapped it out just in case.

i need to see where I expect power on the relay pins and check connectivity between relays and sjb connector

 

I Have two hot power in to the relay and earth switching happens correctly when I activate the wipers on the stalk. The wipers will fire if I manually bridge the relay power side. But they don’t run with the relay plugged in.

I think a reasonable answer seems to be the wiper motor failed and that killed the relay or relays. Does that seem reasonable ? Anyway now I need to test the relay on my bench. Power up and see if it clicks. If it doesn’t i will replace the relays. Not my most satisfying adventure so far.

 

Relays are rated 40amp, fuse is 30amp, so failed wiper motor would blow the fuse before damaging the relays
And motor would no longer work, so jumper in relay slots would have no results

 

Yes - but it does work now because I replaced the wiper motor. The problem I am left with is I can see the Stalk switch causing power across the relay slots - but the relay doesn't fire. Pull the relay out and bridge the relay slots and (new) motor runs. Old motor MIGHT have run but was reading different resistance (very different) to a new motor (so I swapped it out).

Anyway my last stop (or next :-() is replacing both relays. I dont know the part number for the washer relay (its a different relay to the two wiper replays and its still i the truck - I found the layout online so I can pull it too when I get home and test that relay too).

I dont know what other options I have - I think I have now traced and proofed everything back to the relays - I didn't expect them to have failed (and both ? or all three ? seems unrealistically improbable). Still its a fast easy fix to swap them out and I can return the new relays if thats not the issue..

Sitting here ... what would cause this ? I am going to google relay failure I didnt check them first because they are really reliable and I swapped them (left to right right to left) as a first action with no effect and considered them eliminated as a cause - but after days of testing everything I am back to the relays.

 

All 3 relays get 12volts on their Coils(pins 85 or 86) with key on
The SJB grounds the coil to activate each relay, based on input from Multi-function switch

Since the relay's coils and wiper motor share the one wire from the 30amp fuse then if there was a high current draw because of motor issue it could have caused a coil or coils to separate internally

Yes, Ford used both Mini-relays and Micro-relays

Mini seen here: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/m...iring-840x.jpg

MIcro seen here: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/m...lay-wiring.jpg

Apply 12v to either 85 or 86 and then ground to the other and relay should "click", there is no polarity just needs current flow in either direction to work

The "click" doesn't mean the contacts are working, 30 and 87 but no "click" would certainly indicate a bad relay coil

 

So... kids ... only gave me a few minutes to work on this last night but, hers what I have:

If the ignition is ON and the engine isnt running I get different results to when the engine is running
The relays are all good. They fire when removed and activated directly
When the engine isnt running I can manually bridge the relays and nothing runs
When the engine is running I can bridge the relays and all the motors run correctly (washer / wiper)
I think I need to re-test the SJB with the engine running (not sure why the different behavior)

But tonight I will test how the activation circuits behave when switching the stalk with the engine running. They did not behave as expected with just ignition on (Hot side was good for wipers but cold side didnt switch when stalk switch activated. Washers was a bit different but I know that motor is good.) Ran out of time to test with engine running.

Looks like I am back to the SJB - which I have removed, opened, cleaned and put back (there was no sign of water dirt or other damage inside the SJB). Hopefully I get more than 30 minutes today.

 

My wife called and said funny noise from her car. 4" bolt through the center tread of the rear tire. Had to remove and get to firestone for repair that also cost an hour and some sweat.
Feels like there are a few things working against me right now.