wiring diagram for charging system
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Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Visalia,Ca
wiring diagram for charging system
HELLO. Tom here. I have a 1999 mazda b2500 or a ranger- same thing..4 cyl, 2.5 liter. I had a radiator leak and the spray caused, i believe, a charging system failure as the battery icon lit and battery charge guage dropped from traditional, mid gauge spot. I have ruled out alternator as cause(although i just smoked alternator trying to bypass a fuse..lol) It literally started smoking because i got my 12 volts for the yel/ wht alt feed voltage from BATTERY POSITIVE, UNFUSED.. Backing up, I looked deeper as alternator was originally fine, found 12V lacking at 3 pin ALT harness S1. Pin 3 with green/red wire was OK with ignition in on position as required. without this 12volt feed on yellow/white wire, alternator wont output to B+ wire. Its the big wire thats blk with an org or red stripe. That goes around to the battery but before the battery, it goes thru a monster, 175 amp fuse under plastic cover on engine side of power distribution fuse boxjust fwd of firewall on driver side. My fuse is cooked but I bypassed the whole path with a fat copper sound wire with its own, inline 80 amp fuse. ( i know, its not the 175 amp beast but its holding and not blown yet). I did this to do a REAL bypass and in doing, I acquired the expected 12volt backfeed from the battery, back to B+ on the alternator so I know its good and has continuity from B+ to the battery red positive. Soooo, I began a physical trace and fuse tests on the 30amp in slot14 as per fuse diagram. Ohms test THRU yel/wht at alternator(unplugged) thru a harness plug by engine, onward to power distribution box, fuse#14, fuse good and next stop for wire path is unknown but NO 12volts right up to the firewall where other side of power distribution box. a fuse is labeled "alternator" at #15 on fuse panel in cab, left side of dash under cover shaped like the state of nevada, sort of...lol.... I painstakingly traced, untaped and moved fuse box to trace wire, occasionally testing continuity for certainty of path.. anybody? and i mean ANYBODY ever traced the circuit further? tell me where i can be losing that 12volts? I have to replace alternator for real now but it will still need that 12volts fed to it on the harness, yellow/ white wire....I wont replace it with a jumper off the battery again.. idle is fine but at RPM it over amps the feed to alternator and literally FRIES it. smoke and everything so now it loads down engine if connected and makes a noticeable winding/whirring noise. My bad..lol.. So help me find my 12volts or a spare, unused fused circuit from accessories? The 7.5 amp fuse was fine but i dont know where that yel/wht goes once it goes thru firewall. THAT is where i lose my 12 volts as it is NEVER found at all once it comes from ignition thru wall to power distribution fuse box. The jumper DID prove that lost 12volts is my problem. Until it smoked the alternator 5 miles down the road, I had NO battery icon and a normal needle gauge voltage on dash- A.K. A= a charging alternator!!! I was so pleased with myself... for about 15 minutes. Then i actually left my block and DROVE, causing the unregulated 12volts to overamp , cooking the otherwise GOOD alternator.. HELP..
Welcome to the forum
Paragraphs please
There is only the Battery Light fuse in the cab fuse box, the 7.5amp one, that is used in charging system.
ALT in cab fuse box is for alternate, not alternator
The Yellow wire uses a 30amp amp fuse in Engine fuse box, ALT SYS
So there are two wires from Engine fuse box to alternator
Black/orange stripe, larger wire
Yellow/white stripe wire
If you found the Black wire then yellow wire will be with it if you are tracing wires.
Neither goes thru firewall.
Black and yellow wire should have 12v all the time, they are connected directly to battery positive terminal via fuses
Light Green wire comes from Battery Light in Cab, yes 12v only with key on, this is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
Paragraphs please
HELLO. Tom here.
I have a 1999 mazda b2500 or a ranger- same thing..4 cyl, 2.5 liter.
I had a radiator leak and the spray caused, i believe, a charging system failure as the battery icon lit and battery charge guage dropped from traditional, mid gauge spot.
I have ruled out alternator as cause(although i just smoked alternator trying to bypass a fuse..lol) It literally started smoking because i got my 12 volts for the yel/ wht alt feed voltage from BATTERY POSITIVE, UNFUSED..
Backing up, I looked deeper as alternator was originally fine, found 12V lacking at 3 pin ALT harness S1.
Pin 3 with green/red wire was OK with ignition in on position as required.
without this 12volt feed on yellow/white wire, alternator wont output to B+ wire.
Its the big wire thats blk with an org or red stripe. That goes around to the battery but before the battery, it goes thru a monster, 175 amp fuse under plastic cover on engine side of power distribution fuse boxjust fwd of firewall on driver side.
My fuse is cooked but I bypassed the whole path with a fat copper sound wire with its own, inline 80 amp fuse. ( i know, its not the 175 amp beast but its holding and not blown yet).
I did this to do a REAL bypass and in doing, I acquired the expected 12volt backfeed from the battery, back to B+ on the alternator so I know its good and has continuity from B+ to the battery red positive.
Soooo, I began a physical trace and fuse tests on the 30amp in slot14 as per fuse diagram.
Ohms test THRU yel/wht at alternator(unplugged) thru a harness plug by engine, onward to power distribution box, fuse#14, fuse good and next stop for wire path is unknown but NO 12volts right up to the firewall where other side of power distribution box.
a fuse is labeled "alternator" at #15 on fuse panel in cab, left side of dash under cover shaped like the state of nevada, sort of...lol.... I painstakingly traced, untaped and moved fuse box to trace wire, occasionally testing continuity for certainty of path.. anybody? and i mean ANYBODY ever traced the circuit further?
tell me where i can be losing that 12volts? I have to replace alternator for real now but it will still need that 12volts fed to it on the harness, yellow/ white wire....I wont replace it with a jumper off the battery again.. idle is fine but at RPM it over amps the feed to alternator and literally FRIES it. smoke and everything so now it loads down engine if connected and makes a noticeable winding/whirring noise. My bad..lol..
So help me find my 12volts or a spare, unused fused circuit from accessories? The 7.5 amp fuse was fine but i dont know where that yel/wht goes once it goes thru firewall. THAT is where i lose my 12 volts as it is NEVER found at all once it comes from ignition thru wall to power distribution fuse box.
The jumper DID prove that lost 12volts is my problem. Until it smoked the alternator 5 miles down the road, I had NO battery icon and a normal needle gauge voltage on dash- A.K. A= a charging alternator!!!
I was so pleased with myself... for about 15 minutes. Then i actually left my block and DROVE, causing the unregulated 12volts to overamp , cooking the otherwise GOOD alternator.. HELP..
I have a 1999 mazda b2500 or a ranger- same thing..4 cyl, 2.5 liter.
I had a radiator leak and the spray caused, i believe, a charging system failure as the battery icon lit and battery charge guage dropped from traditional, mid gauge spot.
I have ruled out alternator as cause(although i just smoked alternator trying to bypass a fuse..lol) It literally started smoking because i got my 12 volts for the yel/ wht alt feed voltage from BATTERY POSITIVE, UNFUSED..
Backing up, I looked deeper as alternator was originally fine, found 12V lacking at 3 pin ALT harness S1.
Pin 3 with green/red wire was OK with ignition in on position as required.
without this 12volt feed on yellow/white wire, alternator wont output to B+ wire.
Its the big wire thats blk with an org or red stripe. That goes around to the battery but before the battery, it goes thru a monster, 175 amp fuse under plastic cover on engine side of power distribution fuse boxjust fwd of firewall on driver side.
My fuse is cooked but I bypassed the whole path with a fat copper sound wire with its own, inline 80 amp fuse. ( i know, its not the 175 amp beast but its holding and not blown yet).
I did this to do a REAL bypass and in doing, I acquired the expected 12volt backfeed from the battery, back to B+ on the alternator so I know its good and has continuity from B+ to the battery red positive.
Soooo, I began a physical trace and fuse tests on the 30amp in slot14 as per fuse diagram.
Ohms test THRU yel/wht at alternator(unplugged) thru a harness plug by engine, onward to power distribution box, fuse#14, fuse good and next stop for wire path is unknown but NO 12volts right up to the firewall where other side of power distribution box.
a fuse is labeled "alternator" at #15 on fuse panel in cab, left side of dash under cover shaped like the state of nevada, sort of...lol.... I painstakingly traced, untaped and moved fuse box to trace wire, occasionally testing continuity for certainty of path.. anybody? and i mean ANYBODY ever traced the circuit further?
tell me where i can be losing that 12volts? I have to replace alternator for real now but it will still need that 12volts fed to it on the harness, yellow/ white wire....I wont replace it with a jumper off the battery again.. idle is fine but at RPM it over amps the feed to alternator and literally FRIES it. smoke and everything so now it loads down engine if connected and makes a noticeable winding/whirring noise. My bad..lol..
So help me find my 12volts or a spare, unused fused circuit from accessories? The 7.5 amp fuse was fine but i dont know where that yel/wht goes once it goes thru firewall. THAT is where i lose my 12 volts as it is NEVER found at all once it comes from ignition thru wall to power distribution fuse box.
The jumper DID prove that lost 12volts is my problem. Until it smoked the alternator 5 miles down the road, I had NO battery icon and a normal needle gauge voltage on dash- A.K. A= a charging alternator!!!
I was so pleased with myself... for about 15 minutes. Then i actually left my block and DROVE, causing the unregulated 12volts to overamp , cooking the otherwise GOOD alternator.. HELP..
ALT in cab fuse box is for alternate, not alternator
The Yellow wire uses a 30amp amp fuse in Engine fuse box, ALT SYS
So there are two wires from Engine fuse box to alternator
Black/orange stripe, larger wire
Yellow/white stripe wire
If you found the Black wire then yellow wire will be with it if you are tracing wires.
Neither goes thru firewall.
Black and yellow wire should have 12v all the time, they are connected directly to battery positive terminal via fuses
Light Green wire comes from Battery Light in Cab, yes 12v only with key on, this is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3
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From: Visalia,Ca
thanks for reply.
Hello Ron, is it? I saw your helpful answers on this site. hoped you would see it. I write alot and I laughed as you caught me not breaking down my paragraphs. I text with punctuation and get teased. I, for one, appreciate your thought...you caught me...lol... regarding the problem- I traced yellow/ white to fuse box.30 amp fuse is GOOD. no 12 volts at power distribution fuse box. i understand the mistake on "alternate" fuse inside cab. How do I restore the 12volts not being provided to 30 amp fuse in power distribution fuse box, that , with tested continuity good through ylw/wht wire completely to alternator, will fix my failure. I , again proved that with jumper but got unregulated 12v from direct pos post on battery(not reccomended for future..lol). in other words, what is source for constant 12v on 30 amp fuse? i put probe on both sides. no 12vin, fuse bridge good, so no 12v out to yellow white. how come?
The Battery Positive connection will have two wires
Larger wire to starter motor
Smaller wire to Mega Fuse
Other side of Mega Fuse will have Alternators Black/Orange wire and connection for Engine fuse box #14 power ALT SYS 30amp
Diagram below
NCA in a wiring diagram means "No Color Assigned"
Larger wire to starter motor
Smaller wire to Mega Fuse
Other side of Mega Fuse will have Alternators Black/Orange wire and connection for Engine fuse box #14 power ALT SYS 30amp
Diagram below
NCA in a wiring diagram means "No Color Assigned"
Last edited by RonD; Nov 7, 2017 at 09:38 AM.
Member
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Collinsville Alabama
Welcome to the forum
Paragraphs please
There is only the Battery Light fuse in the cab fuse box, the 7.5amp one, that is used in charging system.
ALT in cab fuse box is for alternate, not alternator
The Yellow wire uses a 30amp amp fuse in Engine fuse box, ALT SYS
So there are two wires from Engine fuse box to alternator
Black/orange stripe, larger wire
Yellow/white stripe wire
If you found the Black wire then yellow wire will be with it if you are tracing wires.
Neither goes thru firewall.
Black and yellow wire should have 12v all the time, they are connected directly to battery positive terminal via fuses
Light Green wire comes from Battery Light in Cab, yes 12v only with key on, this is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
Paragraphs please
There is only the Battery Light fuse in the cab fuse box, the 7.5amp one, that is used in charging system.
ALT in cab fuse box is for alternate, not alternator
The Yellow wire uses a 30amp amp fuse in Engine fuse box, ALT SYS
So there are two wires from Engine fuse box to alternator
Black/orange stripe, larger wire
Yellow/white stripe wire
If you found the Black wire then yellow wire will be with it if you are tracing wires.
Neither goes thru firewall.
Black and yellow wire should have 12v all the time, they are connected directly to battery positive terminal via fuses
Light Green wire comes from Battery Light in Cab, yes 12v only with key on, this is the ON/OFF switch for alternator
You should start your own thread
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator
Test yellow wire on that connector for Battery Volts, 12volts, key on or off doesn't matter
If no 12volts then swap ALT SYS fuse, 30amp
Retest
If still no 12volt then Engine fuse box will need to be pull out/up to inspect under side of fuse bus bars
OR you can rewire with external 30amp inline fuse for the yellow wire
Unplug the 3 wire connector on alternator
Test yellow wire on that connector for Battery Volts, 12volts, key on or off doesn't matter
If no 12volts then swap ALT SYS fuse, 30amp
Retest
If still no 12volt then Engine fuse box will need to be pull out/up to inspect under side of fuse bus bars
OR you can rewire with external 30amp inline fuse for the yellow wire
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