How To: Install Factory Glovebox Lighting
 

This is a fairly simple process. If your Ranger doesn't have a factory glovebox light and you want one, here's how to do it.
***WRITE-UP DONE ON A 2004***


Tools/materials Needed:
-1 OEM glovebox lighting hinge (w/ pigtail)
-10mm Socket
-1/4" ratchet
-wire strippers
-crimping pliers
-shrink tubing
-2 butt connectors
-wire
-electrical tape



*disconnect your battery prior to doing any of the following steps.


This is the unit you'll need. I pulled mine from a salvage yard.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635



Open your glovebox and push the outsides inward so it hangs down by the passenger side floorboard.
Look at the top where it would latch and you'll see your non-lighted latching mechanism.
Remove the 10mm nut holding it to the stud.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

On my 2004, the fuse panel is on the passenger side kick panel. Remove the cover and the panel to expose the wiring.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

cover and panel removed
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

you'll want to tap into the green/orange wire in the bottom wiring loom
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

Tap into that wire w/ a butt connector, heat shrink wrap it, and run it up nicely behind the glovebox.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

bolt up your new lighted hinge.
connect the green/orange wire coming from the hinge to the wire you just ran up from the kick panel. I pulled the unit with the "christmas tree" pin that held the wire to the top of the glovebox so i could mount it the same way. That pin is held and wrapped with electrical tape from the factory as shown. You can also see where the green/orange wire is connected and heat shrink wrapped to the end that came from the kick panel.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

*wrap your heat shrink wrapped joints w/ electrical tape for added security.


Close the glovebox. check the gap when its closed and adjust the latch accordingly to close the gap between the glovebox door and the dash of the truck.

Mine had a gap at first like below
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

Once you've adjusted your glovebox door, reconnect your battery and open the glovebox.
Boom, theres light. (i have a 194 plug-in LED in mine)
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

Replace your kick panel and access cover and you're done.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...ine=1380741635

Was that JY hinge you bought off a Ranger? Great write up, next mod to my Ranger.Thanks for sharing. :biggthump

Yep. I pulled one from a 1999 and another from a 2003

Good Info.
Have to add to list of things… where I will get the time I am not sure.

Thanks

You better get busy on your house or the snow will be blowing.LOL! :shock:

It was stupid of Ford to stop putting the lights in the glove box, my older 95 Ranger had one, i loved it! It also had a lock!!!

I know. None of my 3 rangers had a damn light in the glovebox. I'll be adding a lock soon. Its really simple anyway, just pull one from a Taurus.

So those chrome arms that stick out of the lighted latch, are they where the 10mm screw goes for the adjustment? You have a great write up but is hard to get oriented from the pics posted and I realize it wasn't easy to get the correct angle. Does the kick panel by the fuses just pull off? Thanks in advance for your help.

yes the bolt goes in between the arms. if you're taking off your old latch you should be able to install the new one without an issue. Its the same exact mounting location and process but with added electrical components.

the kick panel pulls off once you remove that "christmas tree" pin. in the 3rd picture, you'll see the hole where that pin is located. If you want to save time for this and future projects, go buy yourself one of those automotive fastener removing tools from advance auto/autozone.
You may have to pull a bit of the lower plastic along the cab up but thats just also clipped on. Pull up, and it comes off.

Thanks that helped a lot!

P.C. is sooo helpful, isn’t he !

One thing about P.C., he is through and always does a good job.

Grev will stop what he is doing to lend a hand too! :beerchug:

What fuse is the green orange wire? The reason I am asking is I thought rather than cut into a wire of using one of these.

Add A Fuse ATC Fuse Blade Style Fuse Tap USA Seller | eBay

Idk/Idc lol it's for a tiny bulb

Sometimes Bob the extra wiring will burn up more current than the bulb will.
There are good methods for splicing but we need a thread by itself for that.
If you want to run the adapter go for it, it will work, find any circuit, on with ignition fuse and tap in, sort of like “Any Port in a Storm”.

If you are worried about adding a load to the existing wire use an LED Bulb.

Post up a thread on how you did it, the add a circuit and any wiring and how it was run, along with why you thought this method would be better.

I was not questioning how or why he did it or didn't mention I thought it was better that way because I have done the same thing when I was young and my hands were a lot more useful and I was not as round as I am tall I really didn't want to remove the kick panel because I can barely get my fat ass in under there so I thought I would ask for a simple answer so I wouldn't have to test circuits under the dash.There is reason to my madness and I had no intent of questioning why he did it that way.I was merely trying to make it easy on a fat old man. Please accept my apology JD M if my post came out wrong.I would not be posting this if I didn't think you had a great idea of installing a light to the glovebox..Bob C.

I have a question, I have this unit stock on my truck which is a 2002. However, the light has never worked for me and I just checked the bulb and it wasnt the issue. My question is would there be a fuse to this to check or is it possible for the light unit itself has gone bad? How would i check to see if the light fixture is getting power?

You would need something like this fairly cheap at block and mortar stores. Just put the point in where the bulb goes and touch the clip to the screw and the test light should light. I couldn't find the fuse right away should be same as dome light. Here is the owners manual. hope this helped.

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/frf/manuals/2002.pdf

would it be possible to test with just a multimeter?

Sure, that would work. Lol!

Great write-up! Adding to my To-Do list. Any idea what range years of Rangers/B-Series/Taurus will work with? I know of a couple vehicles in the JY that may have one of these i can go grab...heh!

Hey Great write up... follow-up question: I have an '01, and has the bulb already (as ya'll know). I just noticed that the light never goes off! Is that normal, and after 7 yrs of owning this thing, I just now noticed it? Or is the switch possibly broke or need adjusting?
Thanks in advance for any answers.

Here is a list of part numbers and costs for this project. I used an Add-a-fuse pigtail into the #13 (Horn & Interior Lights) fuse position with another 15 amp fuse for the added light circuit.
1. Ford OEM lamp switch AH6Z-14413-A about $16 online.
2. Pico 5747pt Ford Alternator Regulator Pigtaiil for just over $9 online.
3. 194-W4-90 LED bulb that puts out white, white light and won't burn you like the OEM Hella 3W that draws more amperage and gets pretty hot. About $7.50 online
4. Add-a-Fuse pigtail for mini-fuse panels with 15 amp fuse mounted in top slot, OE fuse you pulled to put in the pigtail goes in bottom slot. About $6 online.
5. One 16 AWG wire section of about 6 inches, one 16 AWG butt connector, maybe a wire stand-off or two, and some sweat capital if you are old and fat like me. Taking box door completely off helps..

Total cost with your labor about $36, do disconnect battery negative first, even if it goofs up your audio system settings. Don't sweat all over the passenger seat.

What if my truck came with one but the bulb doesn't come on? I tried a spare led light I used for the dome lights and it's very dim or doesnt light up at all.

​​​​

Go to SuperLeds.com to find correct LED bulb
 

Replaced the incandescent bulb that came with my wiring set-up with a cross-referenced LED from this website. Buy all of my auto LED's from these great folks. So if the off bar doesn't turn off the light correctly, the small current draw of the LED will not drain your battery and white light to me is preferable to yellowish standard bulb light. Just checked my back-up inventory of bulbs and it is a 194-WHP6 that works like a charm. You can put reflective tape on the inside of the cubic bulb shield to get even more light, but this is a very white and bright LED. Stay safe.