Forget the butyl tape. Go to a glass replacement store and purchase the M6. Mine did not leak for the 5 years i owned it after using the M6. When i used butyl tape the leak always returned. My Ranger was totaled in the Tennessee tornados in March of this year.

 

Hi Everyone,
I just wanted to post a video on how I did this.... it might help answer a few of the questions some have.
Hope it helps a few. Any questions please feel free to ask.
Zac

 

https://www.versatube.com/building-k...Fkd9vKy9ZWSbO8

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...YPwBUUQ9pwGCA4

 

What size of butyl tape should be used?
Also, is it the same size for doing the extended cab, side windows?

 

Hey, kind of a bump to this post.
I got the rear off a 96, going to put it 01 my 01. Weirdly they're both XLT but 96 doesn't have studs, just some rubber grommet looking garbage. It did look like it might have been re-done at some point, and the slider was a cut piece of plexiglass. So I swapped my current clean slider into the 96 window. Since you can't just add studs on it, I'm going to clean it up, put the seal on and press it in. If it worked on the older years, I'm feeling like it should still do so for me. It'd be nice to have the studs to bolt back in, but for $30 and a roll of sealant I'll give this a shot first. Anyway, I still find it a bit weird that you just 'push' the older ones on and then just tape it into place, the adhesive must be strong. I'm fairly sure I'll end up leaning against it for a good half hour before I put tape on and leave it alone.

Anyway! Going to do it tomorrow and I'll throw an update on here if it actually works and seals. I live in oregon so you can bet I'll have rain by the end of the weekend to test it out. Cheers!

 

Just wanted to follow this up for anyone interested. It's been about a week now with the standard heavy Oregon rain and no leaks. I did what most people do here, cleared up the trim as best as I could. Between alcohol wipes and a small paint scraper you can get a pretty good surface.

Now the fun part. I spent some time contemplating why I can't use an older window on the newer truck with studs. I see older rangers all the time with the window still on so I figured, sealant works, should be good. Didn't figure it out until I was 'mock' fitting the 96 window onto the 01. With no studs, there's now a hole there if you follow the standard method here of putting the new sealant on and going outside the bolt lines. So instead, I used a box cutter and carefully trimmed back the small rectangular pieces where studs would be on the old window, but are just these little.. dongles? Bumps? Trim that off, and trim the rectangles down flat. When I put the sealant on I instead went right across that.

Here's where I probably went overkill. Since it's an XLT I've got the swinging back doors. I basically put the window in, lined it up, and squished. Then I took 3 ratchet straps (yes 3), and wrapped around the window and cab, the upper and lower can pretty much be lined up with the trim for a good full cross, and of course the one for the middle. Since it's a slider window, I then used a pair of pinch clamps and snagged the metal high up on the inside and the upper window trim and pinched the center. I worked them all around until the trim pulled in pretty much snug. Next day I came out and gave each strap another click just to be sure. Left it then for about 2-3 days. So far so good. There's the tiniest gap just below the third brake light, but so far no leaks inside the truck.

Figured I'd post this just in case. Is it right? Easily arguable. Wrong? That too. Does it work? So far. For a $30 window from a field, I'll take it. Cheers all.